LIME SPREADING

hugo29

when is the best time to spread lime, want to lime a large block of the pasture ground this year,
Is there a good time to spread lime,
Can it be applied in the Spring February/March before slurry (weather permitting)

freedominacup

hugo29 wrote: »

when is the best time to spread lime, want to lime a large block of the pasture ground this year,
Is there a good time to spread lime,
Can it be applied in the Spring February/March before slurry (weather permitting)

Before or after doesn't really matter. We got good response spreading Feb last couple of years. Just so long as it's not too dry....hah!

bob charles

makes no odds when, aslong as not a few weeks before you cut silage of the ground, often limed fields without removing cattle. I have some to spread once ground dries for roots, really should have being applied 2 months ago

just do it

The only limitation I'm aware of is don't spread within 12 weeks of making silage. It prevents proper fermentation.

JohnBoy

just do it wrote: »

The only limitation I'm aware of is don't spread within 12 weeks of making silage. It prevents proper fermentation.

which means if aiming for the "optimum" mid may silage date you need to have it spread by valentines day.


I've 20t sitting in the shed waiting for a while now for the ground to dry out.

the clock's tickin to get it done

razor8

i'm putting ground lime out on grazing ground wednesday and wondering do i need to move my sheep or will they be ok to leave them there??

bob charles

razor8 wrote: »

i'm putting ground lime out on grazing ground wednesday and wondering do i need to move my sheep or will they be ok to leave them there??

biggest danger is if the tractor drives over them while spreading it

Farmer Pudsey

razor8 wrote: »

i'm putting ground lime out on grazing ground wednesday and wondering do i need to move my sheep or will they be ok to leave them there??

Lime will tend to leech minerals and vits out of there body so if they are being moved in a week or so it will not make a difference if not put in a mineral bucket.

The dusty lime that will stick to the grass is the potent so will not matter in the next grazing round.

bob charles

in dry going very little dust will rest on the grass presuming its short enough.

razor8

bob charles wrote: »

in dry going very little dust will rest on the grass presuming its short enough.

its definitely short enough!

when you are calculating lime requirements in certain area's there is a factor or calculation you must use and its name escapes me

can anyone refresh my mind and point me in the direction of some info

it begins with M?

tabby aspreme

That M is probably Molybdenum

razor8

thats the one

anyone know where to get a map of areas?

Farmer Pudsey

razor8 wrote: »

thats the one

anyone know where to get a map of areas?

http://www.teagasc.ie/publications/2011/823/Trace_Elements.pdf

Page 33 for moly also other maps it amazing what google will find

freedominacup

Farmer Pudsey wrote: »

http://www.teagasc.ie/publications/2011/823/Trace_Elements.pdf

Page 33 for moly also other maps it amazing what google will find

Thanks for that Pudsey. We're right in a pocket of it, can anyone telmewhat that is supposed to do for our lime requirements? It makesit hard to keep copper and selenium right I know that but had never heard about problems with lime.

razor8

Pudsey, some great info there. i'm not sure if i am in it or not seem to be on a border edge of it
is there away to test for Molybdenum?

freedominacup

razor8 wrote: »

Pudsey, some great info there. i'm not sure if i am in it or not seem to be on a border edge of it
is there away to test for Molybdenum?

Soil sample and mineral test on sample, simples. Did ours years ago and spent a truckload of money on bespoke minerals based on the results, that was a waste of money. Plenty of the off the shelf variety will sort most problems.

Farmer Pudsey

razor8 wrote: »

Pudsey, some great info there. i'm not sure if i am in it or not seem to be on a border edge of it
is there away to test for Molybdenum?

As Freedominacup said soil also in some cases for mineral defincies it is grass or silage samples. i think for copper it is a forage based test. Also as freedominacup says buy minerals off the shelf rather than getting a special mix. If cattle are easy to put in through a crush copper injection is the cheapest or putting bluestone in a molasses weekly in troughs.

bob charles

forage analysis which will show exactly whats needed is the best route. minerals need not be expensive as often whats needed can be bought cheaply in single nutrients. only need to balance things if they are way off the scale. you can also work backwards if you know what your forage is deficient in and apply to the growing crop which will inturn provide better crops that are balanced. Nutrition starts from the soil up