mk1 avensis dim lights on idle

Mar4ix

so, happy new year to everybody

Today have to work, so had to wake up at 06:00, no partying last night

At work I was sitting in car, and discovered strange thing, not sure is that ok , so folks need your opinion.

car itself feels ok, but when on idle revs, everything goes dim, lights, blower speed, but when rev up, everything goes brighter, and blower speed up, actually quiet noticeably.

My thoughts is, that alternator on the way out, but there is no any light on dash.

There is video:

joujoujou

Get a multimeter if you can - maybe someone you know has it (if you don't have one). (*)

Check the voltage on battery terminals when idling, compare to voltage when revving up.

If it's between 12.5 and 14.4 V - I wouldn't bother.

If it's lower than 12 on idle - it maybe battery or alternator.

If it's higher than 14.4 on high revs - voltage regulator is broken.

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(*) If you can't - many garages will check that for free.

Mar4ix

So, some update with readings.

thanks joujoujou for your advice, as ,for some reason, didnt came up in my head.

so, was doing test, when car properly heated, came from work... 5 miles run.

battery showed 12.9 V , alternator was jumping 13.9 -14.1 V, connected up to battery, still was jumping, but was within 14 v.
Next, i switch on all headlights... high beam, blower on max, alternator charge dropped to 11.8 V ... jumpy also around that figure.

So I assume alternator on the way out ....

Had some inquiries in ebay about alternator recon kit.

Mar4ix

Today started car (warm) , disconnect all wires from alternator, and checked from " + " bolt on it... it showed 20.3 V , and it was fluctuating within 1 v.

Now what does it mean ?

After I disconnected alternator, car sound way healthier. .

while doing video, showed 20.1

Waterson

I think youv'e probably got it sussed that its the alternator or rectifier pack within it causing problems. Other than an extremely high resistance between alternator and positive battery terminal (which would probably melt the wire with the current being resisted in it) I cant see it being anything else.

Mar4ix

Waterson wrote: »

I think youv'e probably got it sussed that its the alternator or rectifier pack within it causing problems. Other than an extremely high resistance between alternator and positive battery terminal (which would probably melt the wire with the current being resisted in it) I cant see it being anything else.

Yes, i was thinking about similar, why so big difference at alternator and " + " at the battery ?

Any Idea where to get that rectifier pack / regulator (same ? ) , how much it would cost.

Planing check whole wiring loom under bonnet.

EDIT :

I have exactly same alternator - like this in ebay , same numbers.

Waterson

The rectifier pack is part of the alternator. Its essentially a series of diodes connected in a formation that allows AC current be transformed to DC. My advise would be to strip it out and have it tested by a suitable agency i can recommend the guys I use for my alternator/starter work. PM me for his details.

Mar4ix

Waterson wrote: »

The rectifier pack is part of the alternator. Its essentially a series of diodes connected in a formation that allows AC current be transformed to DC. My advise would be to strip it out and have it tested by a suitable agency i can recommend the guys I use for my alternator/starter work. PM me for his details.

PM sent

Edwardius

Did you get this sorted in the end? I have a similar issue in a mk1 Avensis

Mar4ix

nope, ive checked and cleaned ground connections, replaced all vacuum pipes, replaced alternator (used).
There is no problems with car otherwise, original alternators comes 70 A strong, new aftermarket ones comes 80 A strong, maybe it is an issue, that alternator itself is weak ? new aftermarket alternators are stronger ones.

Planing strip and clean alternator, possible replace coils/brushes.

EDIT: there is manual , might you will find something for yourself.

Let me know,me if youl find solution.

Edwardius

Mar4ix wrote: »

nope, ive checked and cleaned ground connections, replaced all vacuum pipes, replaced alternator (used).
There is no problems with car otherwise, original alternators comes 70 A strong, new aftermarket ones comes 80 A strong, maybe it is an issue, that alternator itself is weak ? new aftermarket alternators are stronger ones.

Planing strip and clean alternator, possible replace coils/brushes.

EDIT: there is manual , might you will find something for yourself.

Let me know,me if youl find solution.

Thanks for the reply. I'll have a look at the "charging circuit" manual and see if anything jumps out.

Nissan doctor

Mar4ix wrote: »

nope, ive checked and cleaned ground connections, replaced all vacuum pipes, replaced alternator (used).
There is no problems with car otherwise, original alternators comes 70 A strong, new aftermarket ones comes 80 A strong, maybe it is an issue, that alternator itself is weak ? new aftermarket alternators are stronger ones.

Planing strip and clean alternator, possible replace coils/brushes.

EDIT: there is manual , might you will find something for yourself.

Let me know,me if youl find solution.

If you've changed the alternator and are getting no difference, even if its a second hand one, then start checking the cars earth points. One of them may have corroded or broken.

You could even try getting some decent gauge wire and adding earth points from the battery negative terminal to the body and engine and see if it makes any difference.