Destination Report - Malta

Clareboy

Malta – May 17th to May 31st 2012

As frequent visitors to Spain during the past number of years, for 2012, my wife and I decided to try another country for our annual holiday. We looked at a number of locations, but eventually decided on Malta as it ticked all the boxes. It has a warm dry climate, it’s in the Euro zone, Ryanair fly there, and English is spoken. Malta is also relatively flat, which suits my wife as she does not like hilly places. It just looked like a nice, sunny, compact and visitor friendly kind of place. We booked our flights with Ryanair – Dublin to Malta, departing on Thursday May 17th and returning on May 31st. We also booked an apartment for two weeks in the resort of Bugibba.

[/CENTERMalta

The Maltese Archipelago is situated in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, between Sicily and North Africa (Tunisia) and consists of the inhabited islands of Malta, Gozo and Comino as well as a number of uninhabited islets. Malta is particularly rich in archeology of the Neolithic Period, with the remains of temples going back to 3,500 BC. Malta also possesses a rich store of medieval buildings; fortifications, palaces and churches from the period when the country was ruled by the Knights of Malta. Malta has a long and enduring Christian heritage going back to 60 AD, when St. Paul was shipwrecked on the island. Malta was under British rule for over 160 years until 1964, when the country became a republic.
Malta, with a population of over 450,000 and an area of 316 sq. kilometers or 121 sq. miles is one of the most thickly populated countries in the world. County Clare, Ireland, with an area of 3,400 sq. kilometers or 1,300 sq. miles is over 10 times the size of Malta and has a population of 116,000. The capital of Malta is the City of Valletta, which is an UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its fortifications and medieval architecture. Valletta, with a population of around 7,000, is considered to be the finest example of a maritime fortified city in the world.
For us of course, the biggest attraction in Malta is its sunny Mediterranean climate. The months of April and May in Ireland were particularly cool with temperatures well below normal, so we were glad to be heading off to the sun drenched Maltese Islands.

We traveled to Dublin by train, from where we caught an afternoon Ryanair flight to Malta. The flying time was around 4 and a half hours. It was freezing day in Dublin, so we were glad to be flying out to warm southern skies. Our flight departed at 15.45, arriving in Malta Airport at 20.30 local time. The flight was full with not much as one empty seat. Flying in over the Maltese Islands, I can see why they have been nicknamed ‘The Stepping Stones of the Mediterranean’. We were met in arrivals by Olaf Cassar, owner of the Falcon Court Apartments in Bugibba. He offers airport pick up and drop off as part of his service to guests. Olaf also picked up a young couple from Edinburgh, who was also staying at the Falcon Court. By the time we departed the airport, it was already dark, so we were getting a view of Malta by night. In Malta, they drive on the left as in Ireland and the UK, so the pattern of traffic looked familiar. We passed by the floodlit old medieval City of Mdina, a place that we looked forward to exploring in the weeks ahead.

The Falcon Court Apartments offer a basic one bedroom apartment for €390 for two weeks. Our apartment was situated on the 4th floor and included a roof terrace and a balcony with sea view. The Falcon Court Apartments are situated on Mazzola Street, a quiet part of Bugibba. It’s a family run complex of 14 apartments on 4 flours. The owner is Olaf Cassar, who lives in the building with his wife and young daughter. The only staff that we met was Mario, who did all the cleaning. The 4 floors are served by a lift.

It was a warm balmy night in Malta, which was a contrast to the freezing Irish weather. We were certainly looking forward to exploring the Maltese Islands over the next two weeks.

The Maltese Language

For most visitors to Malta, their main contact with the Maltese language is when they try to pronounce the local place names. Maltese is basically a mixture of Arabic and Italian, but it sounds more like Arabic when spoken. In Maltese words, ‘ X’ is pronounced like ‘ Sh ’ and ‘ Gh ‘ and ‘ Q’ are not pronounced. ‘ Aw ‘ is pronounced like ‘Ow’ as in ‘ Cow’. With those basic rules in mind, the visitor to Malta should be able to pronounce the local place names correctly.

Bugibba and Qawra

The resorts of Bugibba and Qawra are part of the greater St. Paul’s Bay area and occupy a peninsula on in the northeast part of Malta. Both places are a product of the tourism boom of the 1960s and previously existed as just tiny fishing communities. Waking up on our first morning in Malta the views of the sparkling sea and the cloudless blue sky from our balcony was a glimpse of paradise. My initial impression of Malta was that first of all it is not Spain or anything like it. There is a roughness and untidiness about the buildings that reminded me of Israel. The shabby and unpainted apartment blocks with the solar panels and water tanks on the roofs looked like Tel Aviv or some other Middle Eastern city. The holiday apartments and hotels stand out as they are the only buildings that appear to be painted.

But anyway, first things first, I had to find a grocery store and stock up on some essential items. There are a number of small supermarkets in Bugibba and they open at 07.30. The general air of neglect and untidiness was also evident on the streets with poorly maintained roads and footpaths. There have a very easy going litter collection system with little evidence of recycling. People just place their plastic bags full of rubbish outside their residences and business and it is collected by the refuse truck. There are no bins to be seen, just heaps of plastic bags lying around waiting to be collected. I imagine that the refuse collection service must be free of charge. In Bugibba, there seems to be no street cleaning or litter picking with each business cleaning up its own stretch of footpath.

After breakfast, we headed off to explore the delights of Bugibba and Qawra. Bugibba comes across as a typical holiday resort with a lot of souvenir shops, bars and all types of restaurants. It is basically a down market version of Salthill or Blackpool with sunshine! The main street of Bugibba is called ‘Tourist Street ‘– enough said! There is a definite air of tackiness and vulgar commercialism about the place. The centre of downtown Bugibba is the piazza, which a pleasant open area with seating and flower tubs near the sea front. It is a good place for people watching and one can sit under the wooden sun shades and watch the world go by. Bugibba has no tourist information office and I was surprised that a place that obviously caters for thousands of visitors would lack such a facility.

The Malta Classic Car Collection

As a classic car enthusiast, the first place that I wanted to visit in Bugibba was The Malta Classic Car Collection and it did not disappoint. They have 85 classic cars on display as well as all kinds of motoring memorabilia and nostalgic exhibits from the 1950s and 60s. The museum includes model cars, old TVs and radios, juke boxes as well as several video presentations. Many of the cars are displayed with accompanying props and mannequins. Comfortable seating scattered around the museum provides visitors with the chance to rest while viewing the cars and other exhibits. The car museum was well worth the €7 admission charge and it was one of the highlights of our trip. After visiting the Classic Cars, we enjoyed an al fresco lunch at a local restaurant.

Malta Bus Service

After lunch, we made our way to the bus terminal in Bugibba in order to purchase our 7 day tickets. Until July 2011, Malta had one of most unique public transport services in Europe. The service was operated by owner/drivers and the buses were mainly old British models from the 1950s and 60s. Last year, because of EU regulations, the old buses were withdrawn and a new bus fleet commenced operating under the management of Arriva. I imagine that there were some problems as the Malta bus service was dragged kicking and screaming into the 21st century. The old colorful buses were a tourist attraction in themselves, but were probably not too comfortable to travel on. At present, visitors can go on vintage bus tours of Malta, which use the old models.

In one year, Arriva have completely transformed the bus service in Malta and Gozo with new buses, terminals, and bus stops. The new buses are all low floor and air-conditioned. Inside the buses, there is an electronic display with voiceover, which shows the bus route and the next stop. On the busier routes, articulated or ‘bendy ‘buses are used. Smaller buses are used on the quieter routes and on Gozo. In the cities, environmentally friendly ‘eco’ buses are used. On the busier routes, the buses run every 10 or 20 minutes. On other routes, they run every half an hour and on the quieter routes and on Gozo, they run every hour. The buses run from 5.30 AM until 11 PM, 7 days per week. There also night buses for the night owls and they run from mid-night until 3 AM. Bus route numbers with the ‘X’ prefix provide a limited stop service from the major towns to the airport. Each bus stop shows the bus numbers serving that stop as well as a timetable. As regards the fares, visitors can travel all over Malta for 7 days for €12. Locals only pay €6.50 for a 7 day ticket! A day ticket costs only €2.60. For approximately €1.70 per day, one can travel from place to place all over Malta – outstanding value! Needless to mention, we travelled everywhere on Arriva buses. There are also open top ‘hop on – hop off’ bus tours available on Malta and Gozo and they charge €15 per day.

Kennedy Grove

We travelled the short distance by bus to Kennedy Grove, a park dedicated to the memory of President J.K. Kennedy of the USA. It is a pleasant place for a visit with numerous pathways, streams, fountains and shady places to sit. The centerpiece is a monument to the late president. Kennedy Grove is situated on the outskirts of Qawra, which appears to be a more up market resort than Bugibba.

In the evenings, we generally dined out at one of the numerous restaurants around Bugibba. Our favorite place was ‘Time Out’, which served good food at reasonable prices in nice surroundings. The charming English waitress who worked there was also an added attraction. We also ate in a Chinese restaurant as well as in Pizza Hut. Opposite the Falcon Court Apartments is situated McCormack’s Irish Bar, the only true Irish bar in Bugibba. There is another place called O’ Reilly’s, but it is not Irish owned. The motto of O’ Reilly’s is “The Liver is Evil and Must be Punished “– enough said! McCormack’s became our local during our stay and we became friendly with the owner, John McCormack from Co. Westmeath. Most evenings, they put on karaoke in the bar, which was fun.

The Bugibba seafront is impressive, with a nice promenade, where visitors may stroll and enjoy views of St. Paul’s Bay and St. Paul’s Island. There is one small church in Bugibba – The Church of St. Paul Shipwrecked and a large new modern church in Qawra, which was opened in 1993.

Mosta Dome

Malta is famous for its churches, which are built in the Baroque style and are very elaborate and ornate. Many small villages in Malta have vast cathedral like churches that would normally grace the centre of some great city. One of the most famous churches in Malta is the parish church in the town of Mosta, which is generally known as The Mosta Dome. The church was built between 1833 and 1860. The dome of Mosta church is regarded as the 3rd largest unsupported dome in the world. The Dome dominates the entire Mosta area and can be seen for miles around. Churches in Malta have a very strict dress code, with nobody allowed in wearing brief shorts, mini-skirts or skimpy tops. The churches have skirts and shawls to loan for visitors who arrive inappropriately dressed.

We travelled the short journey from Bugibba to Mosta on our first afternoon in Malta. We were certainly very impressed by the immense parish church and its colossal dome. The area in front of the church contains several fountains and the façade is adorned with numerous statues of the saints. The walls of the building are about 20 feet deep in order to support the weight of the massive dome. The circular interior is very beautiful with 6 side chapels and an intricate marble floor. In 1942, during World War II, a bomb crashed through the roof while there were 300 people in the church attending mass. Two other bombs bounced off the dome without exploding. One bomb skidded along the floor, but fortunately did not explode amid the congregation. A replica of the bomb is now on display in the sacristy. Mosta Dome is a good example of a typical Maltese parish church, all of which are extremely richly decorated. I have never seen anything them in my travels. Even the churches and cathedrals of Spain are somewhat restrained when compared to the ones in Malta. In Spain, the churches are more like museums, whereas in Malta, there is a much bigger church going population, so the churches are better looked after.

Mdina & Rabat

On the highest ground on the island lies the ancient city of Mdina and nearby Rabat. Mdina is a perfect example of a medieval walled city and was the capital of Malta before Valletta was developed. The nobles lived within the walled city and the poorer people lived in Rabat. We travelled on the X3 bus from Bugibba to Rabat, which takes about half an hour. The approach to Mdina/Rabat is spectacular with the walled city towering over the surrounding countryside. The Maltese countryside, what there is of it, is very dry and parched with stone walls and great clumps of cacti. There is some agriculture in the form of vegetable and fruit growing, but there are no farm animals to be seen, except horses.

Rabat

On arrival in Rabat, we took the trackless tourist train, which took us around Mdina and through the narrow streets of Rabat and the village of Mtarfa. The tour gave us a good overall view of the area before we began our own detailed exploration on foot. The main gate leading into the old city of Mdina was thronged with tourists and it seemed that every tour bus on the island had arrived there. There were also a long line of traditional horse drawn carriages waiting to transport visitors around at €35 per trip! At this stage, we decided that Mdina was too crowded for comfort, so we continued on through the narrow, atmospheric and much quieter streets of old Rabat. We eventually reached the Church and Grotto of St. Paul. The grotto or cave is where the saint spent 3 months as a prisoner in 60 AD. The grotto has become a place of pilgrimage and has been visited by 2 Popes, Pope John II and Pope Benedict XVI. St. Paul’s Church, which dominates the centre of Rabat, was completed in 1683.

Mdina – ‘The Silent City ‘

Mdina is known as ‘ The Silent City ‘ but only if one visits before 10 AM, at the which time the numerous tour groups will have descended on the place, clogging up the narrow alleyways. We set off early one morning from Bugibba, arriving in Mdina at round 8AM. At that time of morning, the place was practically empty and we were able to explore and photograph the old city in comfort. It is a really fascinating place to ramble around and is like stepping back in time to the Middle Ages. Mdina is simply bursting with history and atmosphere and its sturdy walls insulate it from the outside world. Many of Malta’s noble families still live in imposing palaces within the walled city. There are extensive views of Malta from the walkway, which runs along the top of the medieval walls.

The most important building in Mdina is the Cathedral of St. Paul, the mother church of Malta and seat of the archbishop. The cathedral is one of the most beautiful ecclesiastical buildings in Malta and its elegant dome and belfries dominates the skyline for miles around. The sumptuous interior is lavishly decorated and features paintings showing events from the life of St. Paul. The original cathedral was destroyed in an earthquake in 1593 and the present cathedral dates from 1702. A door carved from Irish bog oak survives from the original building, so there is a piece of old Ireland to be seen in the great cathedral of Mdina. The floors of the cathedral are covered with highly ornate funerary slabs of church and local dignitaries. St. Paul’s Cathedral is a masterpiece of architecture as well as a treasure house of Maltese baroque art. We also visited the nearby Cathedral Museum, which is a treasure trove of religious artifacts. The collection includes church silver, richly embroidered vestments, jeweled miters, and the archbishop’s sedan chair and carriage.

At around 10 AM, the tour groups were starting to clog up the narrow streets of Mdina as they were led around like flocks of sheep. It was time to depart, so we returned to Bugibba on the X3. Mdina is a fascinating city to visit and represents Old Malta at its finest, but only if one visits early in the morning or late in the evening.

Mellieha

The picturesque hilltop town of Mellieha, which is situated in the northern part of Malta, is one of the most interesting places to visit on the island. The roads from either direction snake their way up the hillside in a series of hairpin turns. The northern part of Malta is the most undulating with deep valleys and stony ridges. The old part of Mellieha has some impossibly steep streets with stepped footpaths. There are air raid shelters from the WW II period, which are open for visits. The town enjoys some spectacular views of the coastline of the northern part of the island. To the north of the town is Mellieha Bay, one of the few sandy beaches in Malta.

Mellieha is the location of an important religious complex going back to the time of St. Paul. At the end of the main street and down a steep ravine lies the Shrine of Our Lady of The Grotto. The shrine is situated in what was an ancient cave-church, which dates back to the dawn of Christianity in Malta. One can see the headless statues, which were damaged by Turkish pirates in 1641. The spring water in the grotto is believed to have medicinal powers.

Up the steep steps and across the main road, one comes to the impressive Shrine of Our Lady of Mellieha. The original church here was also a cave, but was later enlarged. The church contains a fresco of the Virgin Mary, which is said to have been painted by St. Luke who accompanied St. Paul to Malta. The shrine has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries and was visited by Pope John Paul II in 1990. There is an exhibition commemorating the Papal visit as well as hundreds of ex-voto gifts presented to the Mellieha Madonna over the centuries. Sunday Mass is celebrated in English at the shrine, which we attended on our first Sunday in Malta.

Towering over the shrine complex is the magnificent parish church of Mellieha, which is spectacularly situated on the edge of a rocky spur. We also visited Mellieha Cemetery, which was the only Maltese cemetery that we had the opportunity to visit. It looked like a very crowded cemetery, so we presumed that it contained the cremated remains of the deceased.

We later visited Golden Bay, the best sandy beach in Malta. It was pretty crowded, but we did manage to have a dip in the sea. Along this coastline is Popeye Village, which is a huddle of higgledy piggledy houses situated in a rocky cove and was used as a film set for Popeye – The Movie. We did not visit there, but we passed by there on a number of occasions on the bus.

Valletta – Capital of Malta

On the Monday, we decided the visit Valletta, Malta’s showcase capital. From Bugibba, there is a choice of two bus routes to the capital, Route 12 and Route 31. Route 12, which runs every 12 minutes, follows the coast road through the affluent and fashionable resorts of St. Julians and Sliema. Route 31 follows an inland route through Mosta and runs every 10 minutes. We found that route 31 took less time to reach Valletta, but for our first visit to the capital, we took the more scenic coastal route. It was, needless to mention, another warm sunny day, with the sun blazing down from a blue cloudless sky.

Our first view of Valletta with its stout walls and soaring domes and spires was impressive. The buses drop off at the Triton Fountain, which is just outside the main city gate. The Triton Fountain has always been the main bus terminus in Valletta. Arriva have built a new terminus nearby for departing buses. The Triton Fountain is the most spectacular in Valletta and provides a most imposing introduction to the city. The fountain symbolizes Malta’s long maritime history. Situated on a narrow rocky peninsula, Valletta was built as an impregnable fortress city in the 16th century to minimize the Turkish threat after the Great Siege of 1566.

Out first impression of Valletta was not good. On approaching the main city gate, we found ourselves in the middle of a major construction site with all the noise, dust and chaos that goes with it. At present, they are renovating the massive walls on the landward side of the city, so the area is marred by hoardings and cranes. Many of the streets were also closed due to the construction work.

Upper Barrakka Gardens

We made our way to the Upper Barrakka Gardens, a delightful oasis with lovely flower beds, trees, fountains and shady places to sit and relax, but the real attraction of the Upper Barrakka Gardens are the views from there of the stunning Grand Harbour - absolutely breathtaking! It took us a while to take all in! I have never seen anything like it and even the most jaded world traveler would be very impressed at their first view Valletta’s Grand Harbour. One is looking across at the Three Cities, Senglea, Vittoriosa and Cospicua, which appear as three miniature versions of Valletta. Every kind of ship can be seen from the Upper Barrakka Gardens, including cruise ships docked at the Valletta Waterfront and the Sicily Ferry. Rows of cannon guns can be seen below on the Saluting Battery. Each day at 12 mid-day, a gun is fired from there. We lingered for a considerable time at the Upper Barrakka Gardens, as the views were truly spellbinding.

As we did not want to do too much walking, we decided to take bus No. 133, which does a complete circuit of Valletta. On route 133, they use a small Eco-Bus, which can just about negotiate the narrow tortuous streets of the city. And what a journey! The bus wound its way around Valletta giving us a wonderful overview of the city with its buildings of honey coloured stone and its incredibly steep ‘ streets of stairs ‘. It was a real rollercoaster ride up and down some very hilly streets. Route 133 – the most fascinating bus route in Malta. Valletta is still a city of small family run shops and business. Their city streets have not yet been taken over by the multi-national chain stores – and long may that situation continue. The terminus of Route 133 is opposite the Auberge de Castile, a very imposing edifice, which was once home of the Spanish members of the Knights of Malta, later the headquarters of the British Army and now the office of the Prime Minister of Malta.

Later, we walked down to the Valletta Waterfront to get a close up view of a cruise liner that was docked there. The Valletta Waterfront consists of a row of old warehouses that have been restored as restaurants and bars to cater for cruise ship passengers. We then made our way back to the bus terminal for the bus back to Bugibba after a very interesting visit to Valletta, the first of three visits that we made to that city.

We returned to Valletta on the Tuesday before our return home in order to visit the major churches in the city and to admire its great squares and important public buildings. There are 25 churches in Valletta, which is an extraordinary number for such a small city.

St. Paul’s Shipwreck Church

Dedicated to Malta’s premier patron saint, this elaborate church was built between 1639 and 1740. The church houses some important Pauline relics including St. Paul’s wrist bone, which is carried in procession through the streets of Valletta on the saint’s feast day. The pillar on which St. Paul was beheaded in Rome can also be seen. A solid silver head to represent St. Paul’s head is attached to the top of the pillar.

St. John’s Co-Cathedral

In a country of some truly magnificent churches, St. John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta stands out as the most opulent and stunning in Malta. It was built in the 16th century as the Conventual Church of the Order of the Knights of St. John and it has been the spiritual home of the Knights of Malta since then. The facade of St. John’s is somewhat severe and resembles a fortress rather than a cathedral. It is called a co-cathedral because it shares it’s cathedral status with St. Paul’s Cathedral in Mdina. When one steps inside St. John’s, the austerity gives way to an interior of dazzling beauty. Seasoned world travelers have gasped in amazement on entering St. John’s and observing the incredible baroque interior. Every wall is intricately carved with flowers and garlands and the vaulted ceiling is painted with frescos. The entire floor of the church is a sea multicolored marble tombstones, where 400 knights are buried beneath. Each tombstone is adorned with the coat of arms of its aristocratic occupant. The high altar is made of gold, silver and is encrusted with precious jewels. The Oratory contains Malta’s most famous work of art, The Beheading of John the Baptist by Caravaggio. The museum displays the co-cathedral’s most important treasures, which include tapestries, silver plate and lavishly embroidered vestments. The majesty of St. John’s Co-Cathedral brings home the great power and influence of the Knights of Malta and it was without a doubt the most ornate church that we have ever visited and one of the highlights of our trip to Malta.

St. Paul’s Cathedral (Anglican)

We next visited St. Paul’s Anglican Cathedral, which is complete contrast in style to the other churches that we had just visited in Valletta. The classical exterior of the building gives way to a very plain and unadorned interior. We received a very warm welcome at St. Paul’s and I could see that they only get a fraction of the visitors that go to St. John’s Co-Cathedral. The interior of St. Paul’s is simple, but impressive. There are some very colorful embroidered kneelers and cushions, which are a feature of Anglican churches. St. Paul’s Cathedral, Valletta, is one of only two Anglican churches in Malta, the other being situated in Sliema.

Valletta’s Squares

In the afternoon, we explored the downtown area of Valletta, with is magnificent squares and fine public buildings. The spine of the city is Republic Street, which runs in a straight line from the City Gate to Fort St. Elmo. As Valletta is laid out on a grid pattern, it’s an easy city to walk around without getting lost. Republic Square, with its elegant cafés and their outdoor tables is the city’s meeting place. A fine statue of Queen Victoria surveys the tourists, who watch the world go by under the superb backdrop of the National Library.

St. Georges Square represents Valletta at its most impressive and monumental. The square is dominated by the Grand Masters Palace, which houses the Maltese Parliament and the President’s office. For the Changing of the Guard ceremony, martial music is played and the ‘ dancing fountains’ in the centre of the square reach their full height. Just off St. George’s Square is situated one of the most famous pubs in Valletta, which is simply called ‘ The Pub’. It was in this establishment that the famous actor Oliver Reid drank himself to death during the filming of the movie Gladiator. Most of the streets in central Valletta are pedestrianised, with only special electric taxis allowed to operate within this area. We later caught the 133 bus to Castile and relaxed for a while in the Upper Barrakka Gardens.

Later that afternoon, we ordered one of the electric taxis from the Upper Barrakka Gardens to where the ferry departs to Sliema. The Sliema Ferry operates across Marsamxett Harbour to Sliema, one of the more glitzy parts of Malta. Water taxis also operate from Valletta to Sliema and to The Three Cities. We had an evening meal in one of the many waterfront restaurants in Sliema before catching the No. 12 bus back to Bugibba.

We returned to Valletta on our last day in Malta in order to have a final ramble around this showcase city. We visited the Carmelite Basilica, the most prominent church in the city. The magnificent dome of the basilica dominates the entire city. What I liked about the Carmelite Basilica is that they allow photography including the use of flash. Some of the churches in Valletta only allow photography without flash and some of them forbid any kind of photography.

The streets surrounding the Carmelite Basilica were decorated with colouful banners in anticipation of the feast of Corpus Christi. Compared to Madrid and other cities in Spain, there are very few entertainers or musicians to be seen on the streets of Valletta. Obviously, they do not have a great tradition of busking in Malta. The Maltese people have a capital city to be proud of. Time worn Valletta is a city with a unique atmosphere and a visit there is an unforgettable experience. I can see way Valletta has been designated as a World Heritage City. It is one of the most unforgettable places that I have visited and we felt privileged to have had the opportunity to explore this wonderful old maritime city that is steeped in history and packed with all kinds of curiosities. As cities go, Valletta has a ‘ touch of class’ and is well worth a visit.

Boat trip to St. Paul’s Island & Comino

For the Thursday we booked a boat trip from Bugibba to St. Paul’s Island and Comino with Mermaid Cruises. We were picked up from our apartment at 10.30 for an 11.00 departure. We were really looking forward to a day of high adventure on the high seas off Malta. There were just 8 other passengers on the boat as we pulled out from Bugibba jetty for what was the best day of our holiday. The trip costs €15 per person for a 6 hour cruise, which included pick up and drop off at one’s accommodation and is very good value. There are a number of cruise boats offering day trips from Bugibba, but we chose Mermaid Cruises because they stop off at St. Paul’s Island, a place that I was interested to visit. Some of the other cruise boats are too big to land there. The boat was well equipped with a snack bar and toilet. We were filled with anticipation as we headed out towards the uninhabited St. Paul’s Island, where he is said to have been shipwrecked in 60 AD. We spent a half an hour on St. Paul’s Island, which is dominated by a huge statue of the saint.

After leaving St. Paul’s Island and the shelter of St. Paul’s Bay, the boat began to pitch and roll violently in mountainous seas. I did not realize that the Mediterranean could be so choppy. I had always imagined it to be calm and tranquil sea. Moving around the boat was out of the question as we clung on for dear life. At one point our boat moved close to shore and slowed down so that we could admire the sea caves and the famous elephant rock. Again, as we headed out onto the open sea, we got a good drenching with salty water as the waves broke over the bow of the ship. It was a relief to approach the Island of Comino (Pop. 4) and enter the sheltered harbor of Santa Maria, the island’s capital. Santa Maria consists of a pink police station, a primitive whitewashed chapel and a Nissan Hut left over from World War II. There is also a superb sandy beach. The barren and sun-baked Island of Comino has been described as “ carefree and car-free “ and is a real ‘ no shoes, no news’ kind of place.

Leaving Santa Maria, we headed for the famous Blue Lagoon, one of Malta’s ‘ must see ‘ places. As we approached the Blue Lagoon, we had views of Malta’s sister island of Gozo. The Blue Lagoon is a glorious natural inlet between Comino and the smaller islet of Cominotto. Its crystal clear azure waters are quite and sheltered, making it one of the most popular beauty spots in Malta. The Blue Lagoon is a very popular destination for visitors with many boats arriving from both Malta and Gozo. Landing at the Blue Lagoon is a bit tricky as the boats must reverse into a very primitive jetty. The narrow gangway which extended out from the end of our boat did not make contact with the rocks, but swayed from side to side making disembarking a bit awkward. I would not recommend a visit to the Blue Lagoon for those who are elderly or who have a physical disability. The place was pretty crowded and we have to weave our way along a series of very narrow pathways with people lying around sunbathing. We hired deck chairs for €4 each, but the ground was very uneven and it was hard to find a level piece of ground where we could sit. After a while, we set out to explore the island of Comino. The footpaths are very rough and one must tread carefully. The coastline of Comino has some really stunning cliff scenery and superb views. In the distance, we could see St. Mary’s Tower, which was used as a prison in the film The Count of Monte Cristo. We departed from Comino at around 4 PM. On our return voyage, the boat sailed close to some more sea caves along the coast of Comino. We were back in Bugibba Jetty at 5 PM, from where a mini-bus was waiting to bring us to out apartment. It was a fantastic day out – the best day of the best holiday ever!

Siggiewi & The Blue Grotto

On our last Monday, we visited the village of Siggiewi and The Blue Grotto, which is one of Malta’s most famous attractions. From Bugibba, we caught the X3 bus to Rabat, from where we caught the No. 201 bus to Siggiewi. Bus route 201 traverses some of the most spectacular scenery in Malta. From Rabat, the bus made its way through the picturesque village of Dingli and from there along the Dingli Cliffs, from where there are panoramic views of the cliff bound west coast of Malta. The roads in this part of Malta are atrocious - very badly surfaced and little better than dirt roads in places. We were literally shaken to pieces as we bounced along in the bus. At least the bus journeys in Malta are short and before long we were alighting in the centre of Siggiewi.

Siggiewi is a typical village of this part of Malta and gets few if any tourists. It’s a very quiet and laid back kind of place, full of interesting nooks and crannies and a good place to observe Maltese rural village life. The centre of Siggiewi is dominated by the magnificent baroque parish church. As we waited for the 201 bus to the Blue Grotto, we saw a number of interesting vehicles around the piazza including several auto cycles. I had not actually seen an auto cycle since childhood. They are basically a bicycle with a petrol engine attached and are one of the most primitive and noisiest forms of mechanically propelled transport. Around the piazza, we also saw a Bedford CV van and also a beautifully maintained Bedford CV pickup truck, both of which must go back to the late 1950s or early 1960s. We also saw a very rustic old Morris Minor pickup passing by.

The Blue Grotto

From Siggiewi, we travelled on by bus to the famed Blue Grotto. From the bus stop, a steep straggle of shops and cafés leads down to the tiny harbor, from where boats take visitors to the fabled Blue Grotto. We relaxed for a while and enjoyed a picnic before exploring the many cliff paths, which give fine views of the coastline. In the distance can be seen the tiny island of Filfla, which was once used as target practice by the Royal Navy. We later bought our tickets for the boat trip to the Blue Grotto, which cost €7 per person. The boats used are small, so all passengers must wear life jackets. The boat trip takes in 6 caves along this stretch of coast including the huge natural arch called the Blue Grotto. The water here has the most unearthly blue colour, which seems to flicker from beneath. The Blue Grotto was used as a location for the film Troy starring Brad Pitt. The Blue Grotto was one of the highlights of our trip and the boat trip was an unforgettable adventure.

Marsaxlokk, Floriana and San Anton Gardens

On our last full day in Malta, we made an early start and caught the No. 12 bus into Valletta and from there caught the No. 81 bus to Marsaxlokk, Malta’s largest fishing village. This enchanting place is set around an azure bay. Traditional fishing boats painted in bright colours bob in the harbour. The design of the boats go back to the time of the Phoenicians, who arrived in Malta around 800 BC. The Eye of Osiris, an ancient symbol of protection against evil is still painted on the boats. The pretty parish church of Marsaxlokk stands just back from the harbour. As in most Maltese churches, it has two clocks showing different times. One clock shows the right time and the other clock is permanently set at a few moments before the bewitching hour of midnight in order to ward off evil spirits and to confuse the Devil!

From Marsaxlokk, we returned to the Valletta Bus Terminus on bus No. 81. We then explored Floriana by following the Floriana Heritage Trail. Floriana is situated just outside the city walls of Valletta and is an area of some majestic monuments to Malta’s past as well as some lovely parks and gardens. The most impressive monument is the war memorial with its two eternal flames. The Air Force memorial is topped by a golden eagle. The Independence Monument commemorates Malta’s independence from Britain in 1964. The Christ the King Monument shows a lady representing Malta paying homage before a statue of Christ. Floriana is very impressive and its spacious parks provide a welcome refuge from the teeming streets of nearby Valletta.

From Valletta, we caught a bus to Attard, one of the most upmarket places in Malta. It is a place of large Italian style villas on their own extensive grounds. Attard is the location of many luxury hotels as well as the official residence of the President of Malta – The San Anton Palace. Attard is also the location of the residence of the American Ambassador as well as the new American Embassy.

San Anton Gardens

The San Anton Gardens surround the San Anton Place and are open to the public free of charge. The San Anton Gardens were one of the highlights of our trip and the most beautiful gardens that we have ever seen. The gardens were a riot of colour when we visited with some lovely flower beds and all kinds of exotic plants and birds to be seen. The gardens include a miniature pagoda that was presented by the Japanese Government and a floral clock presented by the Russian Government. The San Anton Gardens are an oasis of greenery and peace with just the sounds of flowing water from the numerous fountains to be heard. In the centre of the gardens lies the impressive San Anton Palace, the official country residence of the President of Malta. We actually could walk right up to the President’s front door and peer through the glass at the plush interior. There was no obvious security presence, but we decided not to proceed any further at that stage. I suppose the lack of any obvious security at the Presidents official residence is typical of the laid back type of lifestyle in Malta.

After exploring the fabulous San Anton Gardens in detail, we were able to catch the X3 bus from Attard directly back to Bugibba.

The British Influence in Malta

Malta was under British rule for over 160 years until 1964, so the British influence is very much in evidence. The widespread use of English and driving on the left are the more obvious legacies of British rule. There are also many of the old red British telephone boxes to be seen in Maltese towns and villages. Old red post boxes with the monograms of British monarchs are also common place. There are also a number of statues of British monarchs to be seen in Malta, the statue of Queen Victoria in the centre of Valletta being the most prominent. The numerous and well maintained public conveniences are another legacy of British rule.
In Malta, we noticed several animal welfare organizations as well as shelters for unwanted animals. In the public parks around Valletta, we noticed small shelters containing food and water for the stray cats. Malta also has dedicated animal ambulances to transport sick or injured animals. I imagine that the welfare of animals was fostered during the British period in Malta and that the good work started than is being continued on today.
Many of the shops in Malta were festooned with Diamond Jubilee memorabilia and there were street parties planned to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. In Malta, the British ex-pats had the opportunity to celebrate this historic event, whereas in this country there was hardly a mention of the Diamond Jubilee. In Ireland, our largest ethnic minority, the British, do not have any opportunity to celebrate their culture, which is in complete contrast to the position in Malta. Of course, down through history, the relationship between Britain and Malta has been much more benign than the relationship between Britain and Ireland. The George Cross, which was awarded to the Maltese people by King George VI, in recognition of their sacrifices during World War II, is displayed on the flag of Malta. As we travelled around Malta, we saw many Union flags and English flags flying from private dwellings. I could not imagine that happening here.
In Malta, they use the same type of flat three pin electrical plugs that are used in the UK and Ireland. And of course last but not least, one can get a proper pot of tea in Malta, thanks again to the British influence.

Malta – Overall Impressions

Overall, we really enjoyed out two weeks in Malta and we would regard it as one of our best trips ever. At many of the places we visited, my wife thought that she had died and gone to heaven, such was the beauty of our surroundings. Malta is indeed a glimpse of paradise. I am sure that the Maltese Tourist Board would love to hear that! The combination of sunny weather, magnificent architecture, stunning coastal scenery, friendly people and good value for money makes Malta a very attractive country to visit. The fact that English is spoken by everyone makes the Irish or British visitor feel very much at home. Malta is also a very safe country to visit with one of the lowest crime rates in the developed world. There is a complete absence of graffiti, which has been allowed to blight most urban areas in Spain. There are no ‘ bad areas ‘ in Malta and there are no beggars or winos on the streets.

Malta is a very conservative society, so there is no vice and no ‘ red light ‘ districts. I would consider Malta to be a bastion of traditional Christian values and long may it continue. The unemployment rate in Malta is only 4%, one of the lowest in Europe and there is no mention of a recession.

No country is perfect and Malta does have its faults. Outside of the showcase cities of Valletta and Mdina, the towns and villages generally are not well kept and are for the most part shabby and untidy. There are only 3 tourist offices in the entire country, Valletta, Mdina and the airport. Everywhere else, visitors are left to their own devices. On a personal note, we were badly bitten by mosquitoes while we were in Malta. We never saw any mosquitoes or heard any mosquitoes, but our arms and legs were covered in bites. We must have been bitten during the night. Maybe we should have used one of those plug-in gadgets that repel mosquitoes. On all my visits to Spain, I was never once bitten by a mosquito. For beach lovers, I would not recommend Malta as there are only a couple of sandy beaches and they tend to get quite crowded.

I would definitely recommend a visit to Malta for those who are interested in archaeology, architecture and history. In Malta and Gozo, they will find much of interest in a very compact area. Last but not least, for the Irish or British visitor, Malta’s biggest attraction is its dry sunny climate, which is a welcome relief after coming from the cool rainy north lands. They get hardly any rain between April and September, but the autumn months can bring thunder storms. While we were in Malta, we only saw one shower of rain in the two weeks and only one cloudy day. So it was great to be able to go around each day in shorts, tee shirts and sandals. As I said in my introduction, Malta ticks all the boxes and I would certainly recommend the country for a holiday. For us, it was one of our best trips ever and we have so many happy memories of the Maltese Islands and its friendly and honest people. I took hundreds of photos while in Malta, so we will have a record of the many wonderful places that we visited. We also bought some CDs of Maltese traditional music. Malta – a small country with a great history. It’s got a lot going for it as a place to visit.

Hootanany

Super post very interested in going there.

Black Leather

Great thread, Clareboy, an outstanding piece of travel writing. I am seriously considering visiting Malta this summers. Thanks!

OU812

Was there ten years ago for two weeks. That was too long but a week to ten days would be ideal.

Beautiful place.

hdowney

Outstanding information, thank you. Malta is on our list for 2013 holiday, high up, along with Greece or Cyprus so getting the info helps makes decisions

Clareboy

hdowney wrote: »

Outstanding information, thank you. Malta is on our list for 2013 holiday, high up, along with Greece or Cyprus so getting the info helps makes decisions

Glad to read that my post was of interest to you and I hope that you will enjoy your holiday in Malta if you decide to go there - and thank you!