Entry level classic car

dazey

So ...I may have around 2,000 euro to buy my first classic. I'm currently looking at a Morris Minor, Triumph Herald, Ford Popular/ Anglia or a Volvo Amazon. Has anyone any advice or any other suggestions?

I'm not mechanically minded but am prepared to learn. I'm going to bring a retired mechanic family friend (that didn't ever really deal with classics specifically) with me to give any prospective cars a once over. Am I mad?

gyppo

All of the cars you suggested would fit the bill as a 1st time classic.

The main things to be aware of are Rust and Rust!
Mechanically, all of the above cars are simple enough to put right - buy the cleanest car you can, and don't be put off by minor mechanical things - sorting out bodywork is a far more expensive matter.

I'm a bit biased regarding Volvos, so the Amazon would be my first choice.
Also, you could consider the 140 and early 240 series too.
Early Volvo 244's are pretty rugged, have disc brakes all round, and can keep up with modern traffic. Volvo's do have a bit of a thirst though.

Another option would be a Mercedes W123.

iverjohnston

+1 for the W123, just check for the rust, and especially the sunroof drain channels, if it has a sun roof. Mack in Cavan

dazey

iverjohnston wrote: »

+1 for the W123, just check for the rust, and especially the sunroof drain channels, if it has a sun roof. Mack in Cavan

I really do not like their engine size or aesthetics

MrFoxman360

Your not mad, get a nice car and you will get enjoyment from it for years. You will need a shed or garage to keep it in though, classics don't stand up to living outside like a modern car will.

Your own suggestions are probably the best ones, buying a Morris, a Triumph or a Ford, will mean that parts won't be an issue and there is plenty of knowledge out there on them too. Other possibilites might be an MG or a VW Beetle, a Citroen 2cv (like them or hate them) or a mini, see what you can get for the money

Biggest thing to look out for is Rust and Rot, don't underestimate the consequence of a small bit of rot, its always worse than it looks and hard to repair in many cases.

My advice is get the best car you can for the money, get a basic and straight forward one that isn't to rare or complex and just enjoy owning and driving it.

Cars registered before 1980 are NCT exempt and 30 year old cars have a road tax concession, and tax is only €56 per year. Depending on the car, you may need to add a lead/fuel additive to each tank of fuel to curb excessive wear to valve seats in the engine. Insurance is cheap too provided you have a normal everyday car too.

And oh yea, Check for Rust and rot just one more time, it the biggest killer of classics. Also make sure the car your buying has an irish reg, as changing it over from an english one is just extra hassle (lots of english reg classics out there that have never been re registered in ireland)

Donedeal's Classic car setion will be a big help for up to date cars in your price bracket:

http://cars.donedeal.ie/find/vintagecars/for-sale/Ireland/?filter%28max_price%29=2300&sort=price+desc&source=all

sogood

If your mechanic is retired, then he should be familiar with the type of cars you're suggesting, as they would have been standard/popular cars in his youth. Older cars tend to be a simpler matter to check or diagnose, as they are simple and straightforward, by todays standards.

Mechanical work is always do-able, provided parts are available. As suggested, look for rust, rot, damage, filler ( a magnet will usually find this) as a rotten body cannot be saved the same way a worn bearing can be replaced.

My own preference, for working on and parts availability would be most Fords and many MG's Triumphs etc,

Best of luck with it.

kev1.3s

sogood wrote: »

Mechanical work is always do-able, provided parts are available. As suggested, look for rust, rot, damage, filler ( a magnet will usually find this) as a rotten body cannot be saved the same way a worn bearing can be replaced.

.

I know that it's difficult to see under a shiney new paint job I've seen cars with new paint and after a while the rot returns, I've seen a car locally that 6 months ago looked fantastic and now has no sills but I believe there are very few nice classics on our roads that haven't got a easy supply of new panels that would pass the old magnet test unless of course there are iron filings in the filler!
I've spent shed loads of time and money on good quality bodywork and I can assure you id fail that test in more than one spot and it irratate's me that the magnet test is still the benchmark for quality bodywork. Don't get me wrong I did things all the wrong way and bought the car with possibly the worst bodywork and believe me getting a solid shell is important but id like to see a little wear and tear so I could see what needs doing leave the magnet at home and budget for a paint job.

bbsrs

If you need a magnet to find filler best you get someone that's knows what they are looking at to look at the car for you.

sogood

kev1.3s wrote: »

I know that it's difficult to see under a shiney new paint job I've seen cars with new paint and after a while the rot returns, I've seen a car locally that 6 months ago looked fantastic and now has no sills but I believe there are very few nice classics on our roads that haven't got a easy supply of new panels that would pass the old magnet test unless of course there are iron filings in the filler!
I've spent shed loads of time and money on good quality bodywork and I can assure you id fail that test in more than one spot and it irratate's me that the magnet test is still the benchmark for quality bodywork. Don't get me wrong I did things all the wrong way and bought the car with possibly the worst bodywork and believe me getting a solid shell is important but id like to see a little wear and tear so I could see what needs doing leave the magnet at home and budget for a paint job.

I agree fully and don't mean to suggest that filler is a no-no. In any restorations there are going to be repairs, and properly used, filler is a perfectly valid and legit material. I suppose the amount of filler, where it was used and how it was ysed would be my consideration. Unfortunatelly, this isn't always evident until you start stripping. You pay your money and take your chances to a large degree I suppose.

dazey

Sounds like an absolute minefield. I'm not completely naive, family before me have had classics but what hope have I if bona fide enthusiasts can't spot a rust bucket? Is it possible to contact a classics garage and pay a fee for their consultation? Say arrange to view three cars together? It's either that or befriend a person from a club who would view some with me ...and that seems unlikely

saabsaab

Not mad at all. Choose carefully, budget for the best you can afford and a few hundred to put a few things right. I have had a few, Volvo 121 amazon, Rover P6 2000 and Jaguar. The MGB GT or P6 should be in your budget.

alias no.9

How about a Porsche 924, pieced together from the VW/Audi parts bin so parts are ok and an all important galvanised bodyshell. Can be bought for peanuts compared to a mkII escort or the likes.

kev1.3s

Don't get me wrong a nice classic will give u a great deal of plesure but you have to know what you are driving! Its not that difficult just keep you're head screwed on and pay particular attention to the sills chassis legs and other structural areas and if you can try to get you're hands on a buyers guide for the car you're looking at as it will give you an idea of possile rot spots that can cause you difficulty and also mechanical issues. If you don't go in blind and don't panic buy you should get good value for you're 2 k with you're search alone.
O and if you're unsure about Anything just walk away there's plenty of fish these days!

Kevin_Herron

A few people have already mentioned an MG.

I would highly recommend an MG B, Roadster or GT as a beginners classic car.

They are relitively cheap to buy, easy to work on, parts availability is excellent, quite reliable, performance is more than adequate and can comfortably carry two people.

They are also eligible for a number of events.

They would be light years ahead of a Herald or Minor.

Thinkingaboutit

It more depends on how a given car was looked after. There is a better chance of a Mini or Morris Minor in top condition, and a choice if one particular one isn't. I know of a Wolseley 16/60 (I have one myself) which was for sale after a restoration that involved it being galvanised by the restorer, and for less than this one, although for that price, it should be perfect. A person has to bring along someone expert to the purchase, who can spot rust and filler. A magnet helps with that.

http://classics.cbg.ie/Car_Detail.aspx?ID=3185168