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Car Temperature Guage dropping

  • 19-12-2012 11:50am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 849 ✭✭✭


    Hi Guys,

    I recently brought my car in for a service and since then the temp gauge is behaving oddly.
    When I'm driving along it moves up to about the halfway mark(it used always just stay there once it reached that point). After a minute or two, it just drops back to zero again.
    There had been a smell of burning from the engine, but I presume that was just spilled oil as it has faded away.

    I was on my way back to the garage yesterday with it, and it suddenly started working as normal again, so I turned back but it seems to be back again this morning.

    Any ideas what might be causing this? I checked the oil levels and they seemed a bit on the high side. Could this be the issue?

    Cheers for the response

    EDIT: Its a 01 VW golf and in the service they read ecu and reset a fault code(lambda sensor, and they replaced spark plugs, nothing else unusual for a service)


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,815 ✭✭✭✭Anan1


    Is there enough coolant in it? I'd bring it back straight away anyway.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,679 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Could be that the coolant is low and the gauge isn't reading coolant temp but air instead!
    Have you check that there is coolant in the rad?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 849 ✭✭✭Connavar


    I haven't checked the coolant yet. Will take a look when I get a chance in a while. Thanks for the quick responses


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,410 ✭✭✭old_aussie


    Maybe the thermostat is staying open after the car heats up.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,136 ✭✭✭Moanin


    My guess is that you have a faulty temperature sensor. It's a fairly simple fix. What you are describing are symptoms of this.

    A quick google will pull up a guide of what's involved in replacing it.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 849 ✭✭✭Connavar


    Moanin wrote: »
    My guess is that you have a faulty temperature sensor. It's a fairly simple fix. What you are describing are symptoms of this.

    A quick google will pull up a guide of what's involved in replacing it.
    Seems odd that this would suddenly become an issue after a service though?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,308 ✭✭✭cletus


    Most likely if it is a faulty sensor the two are unrelated


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 849 ✭✭✭Connavar


    Just an update. Checked the coolant level and it was fine, so I managed to get back to the garage at lunch. They said the engine wasn't overheating and it was just a faulty gauge.

    Thanks for the ideas on it lads


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,418 ✭✭✭Dartz


    Thought it might've been ab air-bubble getting pushed around the circuit myself.

    It reaches the coolant sensor and the sensor can't read the temperature of the air too well, so it drops, then pops back up again as the bubble is shifted on by the pressure behind increasing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,815 ✭✭✭✭Anan1


    Dartz wrote: »
    Thought it might've been ab air-bubble getting pushed around the circuit myself.

    It reaches the coolant sensor and the sensor can't read the temperature of the air too well, so it drops, then pops back up again as the bubble is shifted on by the pressure behind increasing.
    Me too, which could lead to localised overheating?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,418 ✭✭✭Dartz


    Not for very long. Maybe for a few moments as it circulated through the system if it passed through the engine block. It probably only started moving when the thermostat opened as the engine got up to temperature, so might've been in the radiator, heater core or coolant hoses.

    Unless it happens again, or there're a lot of bubbles in the circuit.

    Start from cold with the cap off the expansion vessel, and let the engine warm up while idling. Turn on the heater to keep fluid circulating and eventually it'll push the air out of the circuit and through the open cap.

    The system wont boil if you start from cold. Opening the cap on a hot engine will lead to a faceful of hot steam. Don't do it.


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