KeRbDoG's B.A.S. Cabinate Project

KeRbDoG

Decided to start a log of the work I do on this cab. Might/might-not be useful for folks.

Got the cab home after a fun journey through the back roads around Kildare/Dublin. Threw in a emulation JAMMA cart/board to check its all working still.



All working



I can't find a lot about these cabs online, from a London based company back in the early 90's. I believe this cab is from 1991.

The screen itself gave off a high pitched noise and gave this funky scan line issue.



Decided to remove the monitor chassis (the PCB that controls the screen) and have it serviced by a company in the UK. Upon removing the chassis I noticed it had been repaired before, and even from my limited knowledge/skills it was a messy job.



Fingers crossed they can fix it all up

Now to the control panel - its a really bad layout as you can see in the first few photos. I've stripped the panel down, removed all buttons. Those will all be going into the dishwasher to remove the spooge as Ciderman put it.

KeRbDoG

Cabs semi stripped. Monitor seems fairly 'rotatable'



Panel itself needs a good clean, but what to do with that button layout?





Funky joysticks

KeRbDoG

Thoughts about how to correct the button layout on the cabinate. Thinking of finding a metal worker to basically cut out the two rectangles around the buttons, replace it with a new bit of metal and weld it back on, grinding flat the welds so then I can drill the holes in the locations that make the layout just right....now to find that metal worker!

I plan to remove the icky sticker/vinyl and replace it with something else, maybe just some 3M with a good pattern?

Myrddin

KeRbDoG wrote: »

Thoughts about how to correct the button layout on the cabinate. Thinking of finding a metal worker to basically cut out the two rectangles around the buttons, replace it with a new bit of metal and weld it back on, grinding flat the welds so then I can drill the holes in the locations that make the layout just right....now to find that metal worker!

I plan to remove the icky sticker/vinyl and replace it with something else, maybe just some 3M with a good pattern?

Is the CPO rotate-able? Ie can you swap what was once the front of it, up onto where the buttons/sticks go? You might be then free to correct the layout & simply print something out & cover up the old face with all the holes? Might be a stop gap solution while you source a new one/metalworker?

CathalDublin

This is what we did with same cp
Before


After

o1s1n

Nice thread, interested in seeing how you tackle the odd CP. I had one in a cab before and was going to go with a wood one too.

By the way, monitor whine is usually to do with the flyback from what I've read. Be worth having the caps changed on the chassis anyway, but it may still whine afterwards.

KeRbDoG

EnterNow wrote: »

Is the CPO rotate-able? Ie can you swap what was once the front of it, up onto where the buttons/sticks go? You might be then free to correct the layout & simply print something out & cover up the old face with all the holes? Might be a stop gap solution while you source a new one/metalworker?

It isn't really rotatable since it has a welded hinge to allow it flap down when removing it.

o1s1n wrote: »

By the way, monitor whine is usually to do with the flyback from what I've read. Be worth having the caps changed on the chassis anyway, but it may still whine afterwards.

Yea from my limited research that was indeed the suggestion I saw. Sure, lets see what the repair folks think. A component near the fly back was fairly discoloured which suggests the flyback is fecked.

CathalDublin - you have or had a BAS cab? Panel looks well, did you cover the panel? Any photos of it completed?

CathalDublin

KeRbDoG wrote: »

CathalDublin - you have or had a BAS cab? Panel looks well, did you cover the panel? Any photos of it completed?

Not sure if its the exact same as your one, looks very similar alright, definitely based on that design. Will try dig out more pictures of it
Its a mates I found for him on adverts a couple of years back and recently done the controls with him. he still hasnn't settled on the artwork for the cpo yet.

Seen a cab similar(like a mini version) to it today in Georges St. arcade with an LCD in it, such a shame

o1s1n

CathalDublin wrote: »

Seen a cab similar(like a mini version) to it today in Georges St. arcade with an LCD in it, such a shame

For sale or was it on site gobbling up coins?

When people say mini version of this cab, I immediately think 'MVS Lordsvale' and remember how much I want one!

CathalDublin

o1s1n wrote: »

For sale or was it on site gobbling up coins?

When people say mini version of this cab, I immediately think 'MVS Lordsvale' and remember how much I want one!

It said 50c per game but didn't appear to be turned on, same trader selling a boxed SNES. It was the exact shape of that cabinet but only about 5' high

Optimus Prime

I think the rage owns that, ive seen it loads of times, its usually on street fighter 2 during the week. I think they have a little section there that sells a few consoles and bits, there is definatly a glass cabinet around the other side of the stall that does have a few consoles in it.

KeRbDoG

Chassis repaired! Should have it (fingers crossed) Monday...but GLS will prob be shipping it so might be lucky to have it in February

CiDeRmAn

Woo Hoo!
I'm moving into Kerbs house for the holidays!
Who's coming with me?!

KeRbDoG

Chassis returned and installed - monitor working as if its new! Current panel cleaned and reinstalled as is for the days that are in it. Kick harness all connected up to Street Fighter 2 Hyper Fighter which got some use already by family visitors.

The current plan is to get the Naomi New Net City cab home in the next few days to keep it company

PS: Error24's repair service was very quick, recommend it to any/everyone who has an arcade CRT needing some TLC

bitburger

It would be very hard for a metalworker to weld onto that panel without blowing holes in it or warping it at the least, roughly how thick is the metal?

you could always go to said metalworker and ask him to re-fabricate the piece only without the holes, would be a much easier job, of course the pictures could decieve me and it could be a bit thicker in which case it might weld ok

KeRbDoG

Chassis back in with SF2:HF installed. Note the warped SF2 board, must mount it on a separate block of wood to ensure it doesn't warp even more.



Just got around to also having a go at configuring the ArcadeVGA 3000, once configured and your choice of emulator having the correct settings its very hard to tell the emulated Vs. the real board SF2

KeRbDoG

bitburger wrote: »

It would be very hard for a metalworker to weld onto that panel without blowing holes in it or warping it at the least, roughly how thick is the metal?

you could always go to said metalworker and ask him to re-fabricate the piece only without the holes, would be a much easier job, of course the pictures could decieve me and it could be a bit thicker in which case it might weld ok

The metal is about 2mm thick. In the new year I will try to find someone to look at it to give me their opinion. If they don't seem enthused by the idea I might just get a wooden panel fabricated

K.O.Kiki

Did you keep the original joysticks and/or are you willing to sell?

Myrddin

KeRbDoG wrote: »

having the correct settings its very hard to tell the emulated Vs. the real board SF2

I came to the same conclusion & ended up selling off my pcb's

KeRbDoG

K.O.Kiki wrote: »

Did you keep the original joysticks and/or are you willing to sell?

Kept them for now, unsure if I will swap them out to be honest. Look like they will last another 20 years

CathalDublin

K.O.Kiki wrote: »

Did you keep the original joysticks and/or are you willing to sell?

I've a set of them if you want to do a swap for anything, they've sat in the attic for over 10 years so definitely not going to use them

bitburger

2mm steel should weld ok, alu would be a little harder but still do able

the artwork will melt or burn off if not removed though!

K.O.Kiki

CathalDublin wrote: »

I've a set of them if you want to do a swap for anything, they've sat in the attic for over 10 years so definitely not going to use them

Are they the same sticks?

Any idea what you'd trade for? (most of my collection is boxed DS/PS2 games)

KeRbDoG

bitburger wrote: »

2mm steel should weld ok, alu would be a little harder but still do able

the artwork will melt or burn off if not removed though!

Grand. The overlay would be removed and replaced prob with 3M carbon fiber vinyl.

bitburger

thats the job, i would say someone who does rust repairs on cars might be your best bet, hes used to working with that type of metal and would probabaly be better in getting you a flush top afterwards,

you could always give it a go yourself with a fiberglass kit either.