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airtight products

  • 11-12-2012 10:53am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 114 ✭✭


    Hello all,

    I'm in the market for a range of airtight products for my house im not sure which brand's are best etc any info would be great. if any person has good price's to share with me I'd be very happy to get a PM or offers....

    Kind regards..


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭AnarchistKen


    Recently used SIGA tapes and membranes. They're suppliers and technical advice only but are extremely good in what they do. A couple hours of training from them and you'll be ready to tackle the installation by yourself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 114 ✭✭iceax


    thanks AnarchistKen for the reply , i wonder did you find any issues with the product you used . did you find any one item better than another etc. my first item to tackle is the windows and door then ceilings first floor area.

    Also My block build has used cavity closers around all opes. Should i tape all the way out to the block work from the window frame Or just from window to cavity closer ?http://pix.ie/iceaxe/3097991/in/album/455514


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 196 ✭✭fealeranger


    iceax wrote: »
    thanks AnarchistKen for the reply , i wonder did you find any issues with the product you used . did you find any one item better than another etc. my first item to tackle is the windows and door then ceilings first floor area.

    Also My block build has used cavity closers around all opes. Should i tape all the way out to the block work from the window frame Or just from window to cavity closer ?http://pix.ie/iceaxe/3097991/in/album/455514
    Just a quick question on airtight membrane around windows and doors. Lets say in 15-20 years time I need to change or decide to change the windows and doors, how am I going to get these airtight again? It is easy in a new build i am trying to figure out how this is done on an existing build.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭AnarchistKen


    Check out the Siga website - very handy videos etc.

    You'll see common sense applies a lot of the time. When tackling windows you do the corners first and then strip the corners top to bottom and side to side.

    In relation to bringing the tape to the closer or frame and by looking at the photograph it's very hard to tell where the gaps are. You'll know immediately when you go to tape it up which option gives you the best seal.

    Do you intend on air testing after completion?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,282 ✭✭✭sas


    Just a quick question on airtight membrane around windows and doors. Lets say in 15-20 years time I need to change or decide to change the windows and doors, how am I going to get these airtight again? It is easy in a new build i am trying to figure out how this is done on an existing build.

    I don't see the difference between new build and retrofit for this tbh.

    Assuming a masonry house (no dry lining), your airtightness layer is your plaster layer.

    So when you remove the windows, you apply the tape to the new window as it's being installed. The tape will overlap your internal reveals in some manner an and you simply replaster your reveal over the fresh tape.

    If you have drylined, then your airtightness layer should be a scratch coat beneath the drylining. You'd need to remove this from the reveals to expose the airtightness layer and then continue as above.

    Am I being clear here?


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    iceax wrote: »
    thanks AnarchistKen for the reply , i wonder did you find any issues with the product you used . did you find any one item better than another etc. my first item to tackle is the windows and door then ceilings first floor area.

    Also My block build has used cavity closers around all opes. Should i tape all the way out to the block work from the window frame Or just from window to cavity closer ?http://pix.ie/iceaxe/3097991/in/album/455514

    What do your construction details show? How did you eng/ arch propose to detail these junctions?

    Tape needs to be fixed to the window and on to block work then plastered over, Flexible membrane/joint is required at the window point to allow for minor movement.

    Your short-cuts at design and detailing stage will now come back to haunt you! I'd ask about thermal bridging but thats probably to late to correct. Best of luck with completion of your build


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 114 ✭✭iceax


    BryanF wrote: »
    What do your construction details show? How did you eng/ arch propose to detail these junctions?

    Tape needs to be fixed to the window and on to block work then plastered over, Flexible membrane/joint is required at the window point to allow for minor movement.

    Your short-cuts at design and detailing stage will now come back to haunt you! I'd ask about thermal bridging but thats probably to late to correct. Best of luck with completion of your build


    Thanks Brian for your reply . maybe the picture is not the best but i try to elaborate a small bit.
    The build called for the product "xtratherm close-R Flange" to close the cavity . The detail shows to tape my joint to this pvc product and plaster the inner leaf + over the xtratherm close-R Flange and now the airtight tape to finish the job... BUT the windows were made as snug as possible the Flanged closer is flexing !! and not sitting well on the block work SO do i need to tape across the total area(all the way out to the block work) or build out the plaster a lot more to compensate for this flexing . can you see an issue thermal bridging .

    Thanks all again....



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    iceax wrote: »
    SO do i need to tape across the total area(all the way out to the block work)
    yes that is what I would recommend
    [/UOTE]
    can you see an issue thermal bridging [/QUOTE] cant tell from info given


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