Injector Tee

fiestaman

Hi does anyone know if there is a max distance between stove and injector tee before you can use one. i found this on the web. if this is true 600mm max then waht do you do if your further away?

gdavis

I would go by the particular stoves manual.I would also advise,if possible,and if stove has 4 connections,to use the four connections and pipe diagonally across the stove,which will do away with need for injector tee

fiestaman

gdavis wrote: »

I would go by the particular stoves manual.I would also advise,if possible,and if stove has 4 connections,to use the four connections and pipe diagonally across the stove,which will do away with need for injector tee

There is 4 on mine but the plumber only used 2 on oppisite sides. I had a problem where my pump was after the tee junction, say i had stove then tee junction then pump. My pump was pushing towards tee junction and it was stopping water coming from return on cylinder so wouldnt heat tank when pump was on. I got a plumber to look at it and he moved pump to other side so pump was pulling and it just pulled around the coil then and barley to rads. He then put balancing valve on return from cylinder. This is helping but now its not working on gravity, he has a none return between pump and stove and i think gravity cant open this valve. Im woundering would an injector tee have solved it in the first place. Pic of old setup

gdavis

there should be no valves put on gravity circuit at all.also,the 4 connections should be used on the stove which would ensure the pump wont affect the gravity return and will do away with injector tee.

jimjimt

fiestaman wrote: »

There is 4 on mine but the plumber only used 2 on oppisite sides. I had a problem where my pump was after the tee junction, say i had stove then tee junction then pump. My pump was pushing towards tee junction and it was stopping water coming from return on cylinder so wouldnt heat tank when pump was on. I got a plumber to look at it and he moved pump to other side so pump was pulling and it just pulled around the coil then and barley to rads. He then put balancing valve on return from cylinder. This is helping but now its not working on gravity, he has a none return between pump and stove and i think gravity cant open this valve. Im woundering would an injector tee have solved it in the first place. Pic of old setup

A injector tee would help. But when the pump is on gravity will not work. Your pipe stat has to to be beside the stove. In most cases the pipe stat is turn down too low and pump running for longer than it should.

fiestaman

jimjimt wrote: »

A injector tee would help. But when the pump is on gravity will not work. Your pipe stat has to to be beside the stove. In most cases the pipe stat is turn down too low and pump running for longer than it should.

I know gravity wont work when pump is on but does that not mean that water should circulate around cylinder coil while circulating through the rads. From the point where my injector tee should go, back to the stove is about 5feet. Would injector tee still work.
When he changed the pump to the inside all the water was being pumped through the cylinder and barley any to the rads which was no good so a balance wheel valve was put on with wheel taken off and wont be touched. I dont like the idea of no gravity as if the power fails my water in boiler wont have anywhere to go.

jimjimt

fiestaman wrote: »

I know gravity wont work when pump is on but does that not mean that water should circulate around cylinder coil while circulating through the rads. From the point where my injector tee should go, back to the stove is about 5feet. Would injector tee still work.
When he changed the pump to the inside all the water was being pumped through the cylinder and barley any to the rads which was no good so a balance wheel valve was put on with wheel taken off and wont be touched. I dont like the idea of no gravity as if the power fails my water in boiler wont have anywhere to go.

Ok your system was gravity and now fully pumped. Before it was changed to fully pumped. Where is or was the pipe stat to operate the pump at what is or was it set at ?
Unless you are going to change the pump to where it was the injector is of no use.
Their is no distance requirement for the injector tee. The circulating pump has to be behind it. The tee as to be placed correctly with the hot water cylinder.

Was the gravity circuit not working ?

You have a stainless steel cylinder is it pressurized ?
Did it come with a gravity coil for solid fuel ?
Your cylinder is on the floor are you in a two story house ?
If your cylinder is downstairs on the floor it may not heat by gravity.

fiestaman

jimjimt wrote: »

Ok your system was gravity and now fully pumped. Before it was changed to fully pumped. Where is or was the pipe stat to operate the pump at what is or was it set at ? In the hotpress on the flow pipe as far back from the cylinder as i could get it set at 55deg.
Unless you are going to change the pump to where it was the injector is of no use.
Their is no distance requirement for the injector tee. The circulating pump has to be behind it. The tee as to be placed correctly with the hot water cylinder. What do you mean by this?

Was the gravity circuit not working ? It was working but the water only got to about 43 degrees in the tank & the rads would be as hot as if the oil was on.

You have a stainless steel cylinder is it pressurized ? No
Did it come with a gravity coil for solid fuel ? Dont know that.
Your cylinder is on the floor are you in a two story house ? No Bunglow
If your cylinder is downstairs on the floor it may not heat by gravity.

I persumed that the water should circulate through the coil and to the rads when the system got up to tempreture but the return pipe from my cylinder was always cool which i reckoned that the pump was pushing through the tee and stopping water from the cylinder entering the flow from the rads. The plumber did say that previous plumber had an insert pushed into the normal tee so maybe thats why it wasnt working properly,maybe a proper injector tee might have done the job. now with the pump changed even with the mixing valve the rads are nowhere near as hot as they used to be. Maybe il go back to old way and fit a proper injector tee.

jimjimt

It could had been as simple has your pipe stat turn down too low.

How far is your pipe stat from the stove ?

What is it set at ?

fiestaman

jimjimt wrote: »

It could had been as simple has your pipe stat turn down too low.

How far is your pipe stat from the stove ?

What is it set at ?

I have it right behind it now, 6inches set at 55. It was 4feet away set at 55

TPM

jimjimt wrote: »

It could had been as simple has your pipe stat turn down too low.

How far is your pipe stat from the stove ?

What is it set at ?

fiestaman wrote: »

I have it right behind it now, 6inches set at 55. It was 4feet away set at 55

moving it closer and leaving it at the same setting would be the same as turning it down

jimjimt

fiestaman wrote: »

I have it right behind it now, 6inches set at 55. It was 4feet away set at 55

You should be able to set it to around 70-75 but do so it small steps to insure all is ok.
If your cylinder was set up probably for a gravity feed. It would mean better hot water and heat in your rads. 55 would be a bit low beside the stove.
After that it would be down to boiler size and what you feed your stove.

fiestaman

jimjimt wrote: »

You should be able to set it to around 70-75 but do so it small steps to insure all is ok.
If your cylinder was set up probably for a gravity feed. It would mean better hot water and heat in your rads. 55 would be a bit low beside the stove.
After that it would be down to boiler size and what you feed your stove.

Ok thanks for that, the only thing with turning it up means big fire to keep pump going. I think its the none return valve on the return is not opening when gravity wants to work. I think il change back to the way it was first and use an proper injector tee.

TPM

fiestaman wrote: »

Ok thanks for that, the only thing with turning it up means big fire to keep pump going. I think its the none return valve on the return is not opening when gravity wants to work. I think il change back to the way it was first and use an proper injector tee.

You have to burn the fuel to get the heat, as the fire goes low the stat/pump will cut in and out once the water is hot enough

ogill2000

Please note that under no circumstances should you have any restrictions/valves injector tees on your primary gravity circuit that is a one inch flow and return coming directly from your heat source to your cylinder and generally something like a towel rail or bathroom rad added with no valves installed as an extra heat leak.There should be no compromise on this.That is why there are four tappings on the boiler ,one set is for the primary circuit the other is for your pumped secondary circuit

btdoyle

Hi,
can anyone out there tell me where I can download a pipework diagram for a Stanley Reginald Boiler. I just need the layout around the hot water cylinder and boiler. Is it advisable to use all 4 connections at the rear of the boiler. There is also a Grant back boiler to be connected to this system, am I right in assuming this should be connected to a dual coil cylinder completely separate from the Stanley boiler. Any help or comment much appreciated. Thanks