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Circlular Saw rebating

  • 03-12-2012 9:18pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,269 ✭✭✭


    Hi guys, just got my new circular delivered and a quick question on something I want to try.

    I'm planning to do rebates in 45mm by 70mm mahogany to a depth of 12mm and coming in 20mm from the edge. The set up I'm planning is to clamp around 3 2400mm lengths together and then clamp these to the bench. Then reverse the parallel guide so it uses the last piece of stock on the left. Was thinking this might be easier as the body of the saw will then still be supported and I work with the stock to the left of me which seems more natural.

    The stock has been planed straight so should get a straight line.

    This is my first time using a circular saw by the way. Planning a couple of simpler cuts like sheeting etc to get used to the feel before trying the above but would really appreciate any advice or observations on potential pitfalls in the set up described.

    Did a lot of searches for rebating with a circular saw but although I found a fair few articles saying you can do it none of them illustrated the set up.

    Cheers


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    Forgive me if I'm wrong but I'm reading it that you are creating a groove 12mm deep that is 20mm in from the edge? Either way I'd be doing this with a router which is a lot lot more safer than with a skill saw.

    The reason I'm saying this is that the riving knife has to be removed from the skill saw to cut any grooves or do rebeating with it as well and it well caus the blade to jam up and fire the wood at tremendous speed towards you and if your in the firing line you will be in a lot of pain or in the hospital.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,128 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Sounds like freehand ripping set up with a hand held circular saw, not a bench mounted one???


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    kadman wrote: »
    Sounds like freehand ripping set up with a hand held circular saw, not a bench mounted one???

    I know I would find a safer way to do it.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,128 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    I know I would find a safer way to do it.

    Small router would do the job alright as you say, but a good few passes for a 20 mm depth, and sacrificing mahogany slips.

    If you have an adjustable riving knife, it shouldn,t be a problem. But for a novice its definitely not the first intro lesson to skilsawing I,d reccomend.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    kadman wrote: »

    Small router would do the job alright as you say, but a good few passes for a 20 mm depth, and sacrificing mahogany slips.

    If you have an adjustable riving knife, it shouldn,t be a problem. But for a novice its definitely not the first intro lesson to skilsawing I,d reccomend.

    I'd rather do it on a table saw with feather boards for a first timer.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 277 ✭✭slpower01


    Table saw would be my pick as well... safest of the lot.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,269 ✭✭✭DamoKen


    thanks for the replies guys. It's one of the newer bosch model saws (GKS 190) so doesn't have a riving knife and yep a number of passes is how I was thinking of going about it.

    Yeah I know a router would be the best way to go about it. Came down to budget in the end and as I've also a lot of mdf to cut the circular saw seemed the best route for the moment at least.

    It did occur to me though that maybe I should walk before I run :) The alternative is my local supplier whose just around the corner will do rebates for me at an additional cost. Or maybe just say to hell with it and splurge on the router :)

    Thanks again


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 277 ✭✭slpower01


    Just think.... will you have more use for the router?? in the long run it might work out cheaper to buy one, if you have a few projects that will need a router and then add up the additional cost of getting someone else to machine it, also the fact you have to go to that person when they are open etc.... sometimes its just not ideal... so having your own might be better :)....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,422 ✭✭✭dathi


    place i worked about 8 years ago had an oldtimer who liked to cut rebates that way he was cutting 20*20mm rebate when the of cut skuelched on the fence and shot out of saw hit me square in the chest 25 feet away. all i can say is thank Christ it was winter i was wearing two fleece jumpers which slowed it down it ripped through both of them and cut me on the chest i was black and blue for weeks.buy a f** router


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 277 ✭✭slpower01


    Sounds painful Dathi...


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    How did you end up doing this?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,269 ✭✭✭DamoKen


    How did you end up doing this?

    Went with an alternative idea in the end. Rather than ripping good mahogany I got some mdf offcuts from my local timber supplier, think it was around 40mm thick and cut it into 46mm strips.

    Screwed the strips into the inside of each mahogany support at a midway depth and then dropped the 12mm mdf sheets in so they sat flush with the mahogany.

    Only shelf that required a sheet on the bottom as well as the top was the top shelf so simply screwed the bottom sheet in through the supports from above to keep the screws hidden. Top sheets didn't need to be screwed from below as the weight of the books ensures they stay nice and flush.

    Worked like a charm with the added advantage of none of the finished mahogany sacrificed :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    DamoKen wrote: »

    Went with an alternative idea in the end. Rather than ripping good mahogany I got some mdf offcuts from my local timber supplier, think it was around 40mm thick and cut it into 46mm strips.

    Screwed the strips into the inside of each mahogany support at a midway depth and then dropped the 12mm mdf sheets in so they sat flush with the mahogany.

    Only shelf that required a sheet on the bottom as well as the top was the top shelf so simply screwed the bottom sheet in through the supports from above to keep the screws hidden. Top sheets didn't need to be screwed from below as the weight of the books ensures they stay nice and flush.

    Worked like a charm with the added advantage of none of the finished mahogany sacrificed :)

    Any pics of the finished job?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,269 ✭✭✭DamoKen


    Any pics of the finished job?


    Got a couple on my phone but work pc no longer recognises it for some reason so I'll add one tonight if I get the chance.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    DamoKen wrote: »


    Got a couple on my phone but work pc no longer recognises it for some reason so I'll add one tonight if I get the chance.

    Cool throw then up when you get a chance .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,269 ✭✭✭DamoKen


    Cool throw then up when you get a chance .


    Here you go. More or less finished. Planning on putting some recessed lights at the back of some of the shelves and maybe one behind the tv so I've cut a channel in the back of the vertical "supports" at the rear. Not supports at all, just there to hide all wiring.

    Oh yeah, in case you're wondering about the obsession with love hearts just got engaged so a lot of post over the last two weeks :)


    2n16lqt.jpg


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