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one back wheel locked???

  • 27-11-2012 6:49pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 311 ✭✭


    hi all, im driving a 00 opel astra i drive it most days, last week i left the car over night with the handbrake on and that night it went to -1 the next day i got into the car and put down the handbrake and went to drive it.
    when put into first gear or reverse it was like hitting a wall either direction.
    so i took off the back wheels the drivers wheel was stuck and the passengers back was free.
    i tried hitting it with a hammer in the hope to free it up but no did not work. put the wheel back on and drove it forward and there was a pop and the wheel was free again problem solved right. wrong.
    once i though the problem had fixed itself i put the handbrake back on again and then took it off and the problem had come back.
    it will drive a small bit forward maybe a foot or two and the same in reverse and thats it.
    any ideas as whats wrong here and how would i fix it myself money is very tight at the moment.
    also the back wheels have no brake pads.
    thanks guys for any help


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 196 ✭✭navara man


    also the back wheels have no brake pads.
    what :confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,058 ✭✭✭AltAccount


    I love the way he tried to breeze past that bit... :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 311 ✭✭whacker1982


    its just the shoe, no pads in the back like there is in the front? any ideas


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,985 ✭✭✭✭dgt


    its just the shoe, no pads in the back like there is in the front? any ideas

    I was going to suggest like your username and whack the sh*te out of the drum.

    Take off the drum and see what the internals are like


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 196 ✭✭navara man


    look like a sticking handbrake cable it you can take it out and work it up and down and used some wd 40 that what i did to a toyota corolla :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 311 ✭✭whacker1982


    dgt wrote: »
    I was going to suggest like your username and whack the sh*te out of the drum.

    Take off the drum and see what the internals are like

    gave it a good old whack alright it did seem to help a little could move the car a little more then usual,
    how can i take off the drum had a look to see if there was any nuts or bolts holding the two together but could not see any.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 311 ✭✭whacker1982


    navara man wrote: »
    look like a sticking handbrake cable it you can take it out and work it up and down and used some wd 40 that what i did to a toyota corolla :)

    thought this too, but when i had the wheels off and the handbrake was down the cable was loose, going into the drum?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 196 ✭✭navara man


    gave it a good old whack alright it did seem to help a little could move the car a little more then usual,
    how can i take off the drum had a look to see if there was any nuts or bolts holding the two together but could not see any.
    in opel i think you need to take off the central hub nut to take off drum


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 311 ✭✭whacker1982


    navara man wrote: »
    in opel i think you need to take off the central hub nut to take off drum

    had a look for this nut but it aint there, just a hollow cup. and the opposite side i can see the bareing but no sign of any way of getting it off.
    tried hitting the hollow cup with a bar and hammer to see if the bareing might move or slip out but not a budge from it.:confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 87 ✭✭carefull now!


    I really don't think you should tackle this one yourself, I'm all for DIY but if you mess this up you life, or others could be at risk. Id recommend getting a mechanic to check it properly


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 311 ✭✭whacker1982


    I really don't think you should tackle this one yourself, I'm all for DIY but if you mess this up you life, or others could be at risk. Id recommend getting a mechanic to check it properly

    if its beyond my repair a mechanic will be called to fix it, kinda hoping its just something small and its an easy fix. i came here to see what ye think after that its up to the mechanic.:)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,985 ✭✭✭✭dgt


    I really don't think you should tackle this one yourself, I'm all for DIY but if you mess this up you life, or others could be at risk. Id recommend getting a mechanic to check it properly

    Can't stress this enough. I know of a chap who put abs shoes into his car and wondered why they weren't working. Wasn't he lucky I turned up to fix that mess, he would have went for a test run and all! :rolleyes:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,391 ✭✭✭extremetaz


    The drum in the astra is held onto the bearing plate by the wheelnuts.
    Once you've the wheel off, it's free to be removed but isn't going to come off willingly.

    Best solution I've found is a large rubber mallet (not nylon now, rubber!) and beat the ****e out of it. Bit of timber and a hammer will work as well, but essentially you need to get it to loosen enough so that it can be drawn off.

    The binding could be a number of things although I suspect it's that the handbrake actuator is seizing in place. This can be worked free if you've the time and patience to do it, but it's a pain in the ass to do and you may readily find a complete hub in a scrapper if you're that way inclined.

    As to your own abilty to assess what isn't and isn't in acceptable working nick, that's up to you. If you haven't worked on drum brakes before, take plenty of pictures before you take the shoes out - very easy to get yourself confused until you get used to them. ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 311 ✭✭whacker1982


    extremetaz wrote: »
    The drum in the astra is held onto the bearing plate by the wheelnuts.
    Once you've the wheel off, it's free to be removed but isn't going to come off willingly.

    Best solution I've found is a large rubber mallet (not nylon now, rubber!) and beat the ****e out of it. Bit of timber and a hammer will work as well, but essentially you need to get it to loosen enough so that it can be drawn off.

    The binding could be a number of things although I suspect it's that the handbrake actuator is seizing in place. This can be worked free if you've the time and patience to do it, but it's a pain in the ass to do and you may readily find a complete hub in a scrapper if you're that way inclined.

    As to your own abilty to assess what isn't and isn't in acceptable working nick, that's up to you. If you haven't worked on drum brakes before, take plenty of pictures before you take the shoes out - very easy to get yourself confused until you get used to them. ;)


    Got the drum off no problem but the pads on the shoe just fell slided off is there a way to get them to stay on the shoes so I Can put the drum back on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,423 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    Time for new shoes. No other option if the lining is detached.

    Sounds like your problem is that the lining of one shoe is moving over the lining of the other and locking the drum!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 311 ✭✭whacker1982


    Avns1s wrote: »
    Time for new shoes. No other option if the lining is detached.

    Sounds like your problem is that the lining
    of one shoe is moving over the lining of the other and locking the drum!!

    Are new shoes expensive.
    How do the pads stay on the shoes seems to be nothing there to keep the pads stuck on the shoes


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,257 ✭✭✭Pete67


    They are bonded on during manufacture. If the lining has detached there is nothing you can do but replace the shoes - replace both sides of the car together (4 shoes in total). Not expensive. About 20 - 30 Eur in the local motor factors.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,382 ✭✭✭jimmyw


    Are new shoes expensive.
    How do the pads stay on the shoes seems to be nothing there to keep the pads stuck on the shoes

    They used to be riveted on but makers now are cutting corners and sticking them on with superglue bonding them on.Its not unusual to see shoes on the rear of cars.Its mainly fitted to vehicles under roughly 1.8 litre.Over that discs/pads all round.

    Some cars even have shoes and pads on the rear.Shoes for the handbrake, pads for the footbrake. Either are not expensive but as was said before, get four, not two.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 311 ✭✭whacker1982


    Ok cheers for that I'll pop down tomorrow and see if I Can pick them up at the motor factors.
    I found an excellent video on you tube on how to change the shoes I'll post it up here tomorrow
    It might come in handy for someone else.
    Thanks for the help guys


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,257 ✭✭✭Pete67


    Bring the old ones with you, there a a few different version listed for the Astra. Could save you a return visit.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 311 ✭✭whacker1982


    ok all done and checked, and re checked and checked again. alot of springs and coils and stuff in there. took it out for a spin and all seems fine, except one thing i forgot to bleed the pads foot brake pedal is abit soft, any ideas how i could do this?
    got the brake shoes in a motor factors for 40e for the four shoes.
    this is the video i mentioned about early very handy indeed.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,423 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    ok all done and checked, and re checked and checked again. alot of springs and coils and stuff in there. took it out for a spin and all seems fine, except one thing i forgot to bleed the pads foot brake pedal is abit soft, any ideas how i could do this?
    got the brake shoes in a motor factors for 40e for the four shoes.
    this is the video i mentioned about early very handy indeed.


    Did you open the brake lines?

    You shouldn't have needed to just to change the shoes and if you didn't open them, you should need to bleed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 311 ✭✭whacker1982


    i really dont know if i did or didnt, what should i do?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,382 ✭✭✭jimmyw


    maybe you disturbed the adjusters.Have a look behind the rubber seals to check if there is fluid leaking out too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 311 ✭✭whacker1982


    when i had it all put back together i pumped the brakes and fluid came flying out of the adjusters, the drum was not placed back on, when i put the drum on i pumped the brakes again and took off the drum and it did not leak out of the adjusters, if that makes sence


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,570 ✭✭✭Rovi


    No offence intended OP, but it sounds like you really don't know what you're doing here.
    I'd strongly advise that you get someone who knows what they're at to check all this out before you drive this vehicle again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 311 ✭✭whacker1982


    Rovi wrote: »
    No offence intended OP, but it sounds like you really don't know what you're doing here.
    I'd strongly advise that you get someone who knows what they're at to check all this out before you drive this vehicle again.

    no offence taken at all, but would like to get to the bottom of this.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 311 ✭✭whacker1982


    11 minutes into this video shows how to bleed the brake cylinders




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 311 ✭✭whacker1982


    all done bled the brake cylinders today, air came out of the drivers back wheel, and no air from passengers, problem fixed. thanks again for the help


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