Design Advice Sought for Built In Shelves

meep

Hi

I'm planning to have a go at making something like this. It seems to be just at the limit of my capabilities

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/woodworking/4268525


I'll be building in to the recesses on each side of a chimney but my ceilings are 11' with a picture rail.

Rather than build to the ceiling, I'm thinking I'll build to the rail for best proportions in the room but I have no idea to to finish the top of the unit, how to integrate with the rail etc.

I've spent some time on google but trying to do an image search that includes the term 'picture rail' just results in lots of 'pictures' of 'rail'ways :rolleyes:

I'm thinking that I need to somehow integrate the rail as the crown moulding but I'm having trouble visualising that (since the rail is quite shallow).

Would anyone have a visual reference or some tips on how I might resolve the top of something like this??

Secondly, will the materials be readily available from local builders suppliers or will I need to go to a more specialist store? (3/4-in. birch plywood, 3/4-in. mahogany plywood, 2-in.-wide mahogany stiles). I'm in the sticks (monaghan) so access to Dublin-based suppliers for these materials is a bit tricky.

All assistance appreciated for a novice!

recipio

Don't want to lecture you but veneered ply has been replaced over here with 19mm veneered MDF. You will need to buy it in 8x4 ' sheets. Have you some way of cutting it accurately. ? It sags easily so has a max span of about 16" unless supported.
If you don't have a workshop then you will have to make do with mahagony slips to cover the edges.( horizontal and vertical ) This is possible if a little pricey and you need to design the shelves to their width.
I'm not clear about the picture rail question. You can put any moulding you like on top of the shelf units. The Yanks are keen on big, concave crown moulding but you will struggle to find it over here.
Lastly, routing dado's seems overkill to me.You could just run screws into the shelf edges or buy Tonka brass strip if you want adjustable shelves ( needs a router and appropriate bit. ) Personally I'd invest in a pocket hole jig and screw the shelves together then cover the holes with pocket hole mahagony plugs.
If you want that deep mahagony colour you wil need to stain and then varnish.

meep

Many thanks

Not lecturing at all - exactly the kind of info and guidance I was after and most useful!

I had considered the simple screws rather than routing dado's as it seems a lot easier. Think I'll follow your advice there.

Thanks again!

recipio

meep wrote: »

Many thanks

Not lecturing at all - exactly the kind of info and guidance I was after and most useful!

I had considered the simple screws rather than routing dado's as it seems a lot easier. Think I'll follow your advice there.

Thanks again!

No problem Meep,
its only by doing projects that we learn.Good tools make life so much easier- have a look at pocket hole jigs on www.axminster.co.uk and decide if you need one.
Manipulating 8x4 sheets is hard. You might need to invest in a circular saw with a rail ( I'm assuming you don't have a workshop saw ) The alternative is to use some of those synthetic 'beauty board ' products which are in different sizes but don't look so good. If you opt to simply screw the shelves on to the verticals at least get a set of countersunk drill bits for accuracy as mdf will split easily. lastly I now know how to spell 'mahogany'....duhh !

meep

Well, I have a circular saw, a mitre saw and a jigsaw. Was considering a router for this project but if I go for the simple shelf attachment option, I could go for a pocket hole jig or biscuit joiner instead.

The closest I've done before is fit out a walk-in wardrobe with shelves, hanging rails etc. did it all in mdf and the biggest learning point was as you say, ripping 8x4 sheets accurately is a challenge without the correct tools. I would be especially worried cutting laminated sheets as I hate how the cut edge can easily chip away.

This time around, I'm thinking of getting the sheets per-cut from somewhere like woodworkers.ie so at least I know cuts are true and I can focus on the assembly more. Especially as this will be on show.

Who knows, if this works out, I have at least 3x other rooms that need shelving of some kind. This could be a project that grows legs.

Actually, I think my doors, skirting, picture rail etc. a teak so I'll probably go for that rather than mahogany, though I'm glad zoom good came from our conversation in the form of improved spelling!

Peter

woodturner

You could make up a fence similar to the rough drawing I have done. It's basically 2 pieces of half inch ply glued and fixed together. The wider part is cut after the 2 pieces go together using the edge of the narrower piece to guide the skilsaw against. You could make something similar for cross cutting the panels. You'll have to forgive my crude drawings, they were done with paint on the computer.

recipio

I'm glad you have a mitre saw - cutting all the shelves exactly at 90 degrees is critical. Put some scrap mdf underneath to eliminate tearout.
Getting someone to cut the MDF lengthwise is fine. Likewise,using a circular saw with a board is ok as long as the board is perfectly straight - those purpose made aluminium clamps are probably worth investing in, assuming you don't want to buy a Festool or Mafell saw with a track.!
I'm going to guess your doors are Iroko not Teak ( which is one of the world's most expensive timbers ) and I havn't seen Iroko veneered mdf but ,curiously you might just find real teak veneered mdf. If you can find veneered ply I'm sure it would be fine but I've never seen it.
I've done a lot of black laminate shelving which is still available but I'm stuck in the 1980's ..... keep us informed.