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walnut floor

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  • 26-11-2012 1:05pm
    #1
    rossit
    Registered Users Posts: 1,126 ✭✭✭


    putting down a walnut floor has anyone ever used x pro tack its a membrane that you stick to the concrete and then peel back the top to stick the floor boards to.also anyone got view on oiling the boards rather then varnish. thanks lots


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    #2
    rossit
    Registered Users Posts: 1,126 ✭✭✭rossit


    anyone:D


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    #3
    tabby aspreme
    Registered Users Posts: 3,852 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    Is it a solid or semi solid floor, is there underfloor heating


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    #4
    rossit
    Registered Users Posts: 1,126 ✭✭✭rossit


    tabby aspreme wrote: »
    Is it a solid or semi solid floor, is there underfloor heating

    solid and there is under floor heating


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    #5
    North West
    Registered Users Posts: 439 ✭✭North West


    Hi Rossit
    I used a product called elastilon. Ithink it's the same idea. google elastilon installation it will give you all the techniques you require. Be careful take your time because it's tricky until you get the hang of it.
    NW
    See attached instructions


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    #6
    rossit
    Registered Users Posts: 1,126 ✭✭✭rossit


    is it better then glueing the boards to the concrete


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    #7
    recipio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    Can I ask why you need to stick them down.? Is it recommended by the floor manufacturers ? As far as I know all floors except parquet are laid loose on a thin insulating membrane.


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    #8
    rossit
    Registered Users Posts: 1,126 ✭✭✭rossit


    recipio wrote: »
    Can I ask why you need to stick them down.? Is it recommended by the floor manufacturers ? As far as I know all floors except parquet are laid loose on a thin insulating membrane.

    its recommended to stick down soild floor if you have under floor heating


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    #9
    recipio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    rossit wrote: »
    its recommended to stick down soild floor if you have under floor heating

    Thanks. How thick are the boards.? I knew someone who had to cut 3/4" maple flooring down to 1/2" because he had underfloor heating. I think I'd have given up.


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    #10
    rossit
    Registered Users Posts: 1,126 ✭✭✭rossit


    why did he have to cut them dow that souds crazy stuff


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    #11
    rossit
    Registered Users Posts: 1,126 ✭✭✭rossit


    anybody else got anything


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    #12
    Reader1937
    Registered Users Posts: 141 ✭✭Reader1937


    I have found oil works very well on floors - far easier for maint. if you have a well vented area, or if you wish to avoid VOCs to any great extent, look for organic like Tung oil and longer drying times. Think of it this way - a heel mark or a child decides to show visitors their new football boots and the visitor asks how high they can jump (it happens) - anyway a localised aera for repair. Paint on leaves a patch and brush streaks to some extent. Sand and then oil - presto - slight dimple, possibly, but the oil blends in seamlessly. Remember if you sand too deep you remove the uv affected top layer of timber which will be darker and you have a slightly blonde patch regardless of finish.
    As for stick down versus floating - look at the heating details and tips on what can cover them first, then the floor tips and finally the adhesives to use (I put it this way to cover you should anything happen - the heating is already in so protect that first, the floor looks like it is bought so follow through with the makers tips (not the tips of those that sold it to you), and finally look at adhesives - they always tell you they are great.)


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    #13
    recipio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    rossit wrote: »
    why did he have to cut them dow that souds crazy stuff

    He had underfloor heating and that was the advice given. Imagine running an entire floor through a thicknesser. !


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    #14
    rossit
    Registered Users Posts: 1,126 ✭✭✭rossit


    recipio wrote: »
    He had underfloor heating and that was the advice given. Imagine running an entire floor through a thicknesser. !

    i would be getting a 2nd opinion


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    #15
    1chippy
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,716 ✭✭✭1chippy


    recipio wrote: »
    Thanks. How thick are the boards.? I knew someone who had to cut 3/4" maple flooring down to 1/2" because he had underfloor heating. I think I'd have given up.
    i reckon you would get a wonderful ridge effect with those boards. a good auctioneer could sell it as a new form of wave therapy brought on by the natural cupping effect of the timber.


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