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Sticky brakes/caliper Audi A4 200k

  • 17-11-2012 9:57pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 707 ✭✭✭


    Hi

    So I changed my rear discs and pads today on the car and the new brakes seem to be sticking. The handbrake seems to be on all of the time. Should I have to adjust the handbrake cable after a pad/disc replacement?? I've only done about 30 miles today but the new discs are already purple with overheat exposure!

    The old ones must have been sticking also as they were in ****e and the discs had cracks in them from overheating.

    How do I fix this problem??

    Thanks in advance.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 466 ✭✭beanie10


    Be no harm to take off the carrier and softly grind all the crap off where the pads sit. Had similar problem with Almera, went through 2 sets of pads fairly quickly and this solved it.
    Other than that check the handbrake cable is not caught up around the caliper.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 707 ✭✭✭Magown3


    beanie10 wrote: »
    Be no harm to take off the carrier and softly grind all the crap off where the pads sit. Had similar problem with Almera, went through 2 sets of pads fairly quickly and this solved it.
    Other than that check the handbrake cable is not caught up around the caliper.

    Cheers, while I did take some of the rust and crap off where the pads sit, I probably wasn't too thorough. Tho I did put copper grease in there :o

    Since the old ones were in a similar condition, i don't think the cable would be caught up around the caliper. The handbrake travels all the way up when you pull it and it's not as effective as it probably should be!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 466 ✭✭beanie10


    You could also check condition of rubber booth around pistons. If this is not intact all sorts of crap could stop pads retracting from disc. If this is case you will have to pump pistons out the whole way. New booths come with grease pack to lubricate piston. Would I be right in saying those rear pistons are srewded out?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 707 ✭✭✭Magown3


    beanie10 wrote: »
    You could also check condition of rubber booth around pistons. If this is not intact all sorts of crap could stop pads retracting from disc. If this is case you will have to pump pistons out the whole way. New booths come with grease pack to lubricate piston. Would I be right in saying those rear pistons are srewded out?

    Actually, the booth on one of the pistons had come away from the piston in a very small part. I tried to push it back in but couldn't get it in so just left it.

    srewded out? What does that mean? :o


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 466 ✭✭beanie10


    Sorry screwed out as in you need to apply turning & pushing force to get piston back in.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    sounds like you need new calipers and discs the discs are cracked you say and it sounds like the pistons are seized in the calipers so it s the only solution that will last, you can try freeing the pistons but generally speaking they are pitted from corrosion and stick again


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 707 ✭✭✭Magown3


    dharn wrote: »
    sounds like you need new calipers and discs the discs are cracked you say and it sounds like the pistons are seized in the calipers so it s the only solution that will last, you can try freeing the pistons but generally speaking they are pitted from corrosion and stick again

    Thanks, I replaced the discs the other day as well as the pistons so they're not cracked anymore :D

    They ARE they screw type pistons and I have the proper tool to screw them all the way back. They took a bit of force to get them back all they way in. I might try getting the the booth and grease pack this weekend as suggested above and if i still have problems then think about caliper replacements.

    There's an awful smell of burning metal from the rear of the car after a journey :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    with new discs there is no lip on them to cause the metal smell so i guess your pistons are not returning after taking you foot off the brake so you are driving around eating your pads and fuel


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 707 ✭✭✭Magown3


    dharn wrote: »
    with new discs there is no lip on them to cause the metal smell so i guess your pistons are not returning after taking you foot off the brake so you are driving around eating your pads and fuel

    Tell me about it! I'm down about 15mpg on average and it's a bitch driving coz the car is a bit slower too.

    Tho I have found just today that there wasn't as much of a drag. I'll still check it out first chance I get tho and let you know the results.

    Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    are the discs getting very hot ? if there is not too much drag it might just be the new discs and pads bedding in


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Magown3 wrote: »
    The handbrake travels all the way up when you pull it and it's not as effective as it probably should be!

    The handbrake is self adjusting as it works off the rear pads and calipers so it should maintain the correct short travel and hold reasonably well. If the travel is long and it also appears that you have binding rear brakes, its time to pull the rear brakes apart for a good look and overhaul.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 707 ✭✭✭Magown3


    dharn wrote: »
    are the discs getting very hot ? if there is not too much drag it might just be the new discs and pads bedding in

    They were getting VERY hot at the weekend. So much so that I think the lead weights to balance the wheel were melting a bit!!

    But they seem to have bedded in now. One side has stopped getting hot and the other isn't getting as hot as it used to be. However, I'll still take the wheels off at the weekend and have a look at the calipers... and take a few photos, possibly for the Hall of Shame thread :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    bloody hell ! you may as well drive around with your foot firmly planted on the brake pedal it couldnt make it any worse and you would be distributing the heat more evenly
    :rolleyes:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 707 ✭✭✭Magown3


    Guilty as charged.

    Looks like it was my fault all along. I must have had the pad slightly off it's proper seat when I was putting it back on the caliper.
    imag0028u.jpg

    The pad itself was intact when I removed it but I accidentally drove over it, cracking it.
    imag0029gi.jpg

    I compared both sides of the new pads. the one opposite to this bent pad had one third less meat left on it so it was definitely that one rubbing more than it should have been. 1/3 of a pad in 2 weeks!

    I replaced it temporarily with the best old pad that I had taken off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    i think you should go to a mechanic, messing around with brakes is very dangerous what happens if your brakes fail due to your incompetence


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 707 ✭✭✭Magown3


    I think going to a mechanic is a bit overkill to be honest. I have identified and solved the problem.

    I have serviced all my bikes and cars for years and have never had any problems. Thanks for your concern tho.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    your first few posts did not inspire confidence :D glad you are sorted


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