Bleeding air from Kerosene Boiler

Myles45

Hi,

First time in 8 years ran out of kerosene last night & would like to know for sure how exactly to bleed the air from the boiler if anyone can help please.

Pics of boiler attached, & from the info I have so far I believe that the nut with red arrow is the correct one to loosen & release air from, but just wondering what the valve thing with white arrow is for? possibly to cut off oil if required?

Myles

kscobie

Yes, it is a wheel head fire valve, which opens the opposite direction to normal, ie clockwise opens this valve.
It would be no harm whenever the boiler is being serviced to have a remote acting valve fitted, if there was ever a fire, that valve would be pretty much useless where it is.

Myles45

Thanks kscobie, the boiler is actually away from the house so maybe it wouldn't be too much of a problem anyway if there was a fire, but will look into that. Any help regarding bleeding though, was I right to assume the red arrowed nut is the correct one to release the air?

Myles

sanbrafyffe

may i ask how did you do them arrows in the pic

corkgsxr

No that's the oil pressure point. Go to the one that underneath that. Or the small Allen screw to the left of that

shane0007

You are correct in bleeding from the nut with the red arrow. Loosen without removing, if no oil comes out, press the red reset button. The burner with go through its 12 second purge and the pump should pull any air locks through.

Myles45

sanbrafyffe wrote: »

may i ask how did you do them arrows in the pic

I have signwriting software

Myles45

corkgsxr wrote: »

No that's the oil pressure point. Go to the one that underneath that. Or the small Allen screw to the left of that

Thanks but too late I'm afraid, oil arrived & bled air from the red nut, seemed to do the job ok though. Had to press reset about 5 or 6 times & let it go through start-up cycle loosening nut each time then tightening when it stopped, then when no more bubbles appeared on loosening the burner kept on going so final tightening & jobs a good un.:D as Shane0007 suggested.

Thanks all for your help

corkgsxr

with the other two you woulnt need to keep resetting as its on the other side of the pump

Myles45

corkgsxr wrote: »

with the other two you woulnt need to keep resetting as its on the other side of the pump

OK thanks for that, will try to remember that if it ever happens again. Hopefully never

shane0007

corkgsxr wrote: »

with the other two you woulnt need to keep resetting as its on the other side of the pump

Which wouldn't bleed the pump, only the line. Also wouldn't unblock an airlock in the line which is usually when ran out of oil as pump will have pulled every drop of oil out of the line. Front underside port is vacuum test port for testing integrity of the pump or return for 2 pipe system.
Manufacturers recommend bleeding from pressure port. It is also why your test manifold on your test equipment has a bleed port also when attached to this pump port.

Billy Bunting

shane0007 wrote: »

Manufacturers recommend bleeding from pressure port. It is also why your test manifold on your test equipment has a bleed port also when attached to this pump port.

Riello recommend bleeding from the Suction port on lines with a minimum 10cm head, only then should the pump presure port be used for more stubborn air locks.

corkgsxr

If you have oil coming out the nut before the pump, it'll suck no problem. No need to bleed anymore.

sanbrafyffe

is there something that can be downloaded to my pc to allow me to use this

Myles45 wrote: »

I have signwriting software

Myles45

sanbrafyffe wrote: »

is there something that can be downloaded to my pc to allow me to use this

Sorry, the software for sign writing can cost anywhere between 5-600 for very basic up to thousands for pro versions