Oil burner, not firing in the morning.

georgefalls

Since the change in the weather, I have to go out every morning and press the reset button. Then it will work all day, no probs.
When its been off all night, same thing, have to go out and reset it.
Only been happening since the weather got colder.
Any thoughts..?
Cheers..!

sanbrafyffe

how do you normally turn it on,,is it via time clock,,,,well seem your boiler is working fine,,,,,,its just a electical/timeclock issue:D

how do you turn it off

georgefalls wrote: »

Since the change in the weather, I have to go out every morning and press the reset button. Then it will work all day, no probs.
When its been off all night, same thing, have to go out and reset it.
Only been happening since the weather got colder.
Any thoughts..?
Cheers..!

Billy Bunting

georgefalls wrote: »

Since the change in the weather, I have to go out every morning and press the reset button.

Is this the reset button by the thermostat control or the red reset button on the burner ?

georgefalls

I always turn it on for an hour, using the timer switch.
Its the red reset button.

Thanks

sanbrafyffe

lad basically the timer switch is not telling your bolier to kick in,,,thats where your problem is,,,,is there power at your timer switch via an orange light or anything

georgefalls wrote: »

I always turn it on for an hour, using the timer switch.
Its the red reset button.

Thanks

corkgsxr

Kerosene or diesel?

aujopimur

If it's the reset button on the burner, get it serviced.

georgefalls

We always use the timer switch, in the +1 hour mode. Never set the on/off timer. We just put it on when its needed.
Its a kerosene burner.
The whole thing was serviced in the summer, ready for the cold weather.

After searching around on Goggle, it could be because in the cold weather, it is cooling down too quick after it shuts down.
Lots of stuff about this happening, but no definite answer as to how to correct the problem..

Any one else heard of this phenomenal..?

aujopimur

Let us know which button you're resetting.

georgefalls

Its the red button, above the red light. On the boiler outside.

kanji

If it's locking out on the burner outside it has nothing to do with the timer.

It sounds like the air/fuel settings are slightly off, making it hard to start on a cold morning. It could possibly be an incorrect spark gap.

Either way I would recommend getting the service guy back to check it over and make sure he does a flue gas analysis to get the settings spot on.
This should sort it

Ps: kerosene or diesel?

georgefalls

Cheers... I was thinking I'd have to get the service guy back.

Its kerosene BTW

meercat

the pump needs to over run(fitting a pipestat will do this)

what is happening now is when your heating shuts down your pump also shuts down and no hot water circulates causing a heat build up at your overheat stat causing it to trip out

as a temporary measure turn the thermostat down a few degrees on the boiler

shane0007

You will need to clarify which button you are pressing to get it re-started, is it the red button lit up on the burner itself or the button beside the boiler temperature adjustment knob?

georgefalls

georgefalls wrote: »

Its the red button, above the red light. On the boiler outside.

shane0007 wrote: »

You will need to clarify which button you are pressing to get it re-started, is it the red button lit up on the burner itself or the button beside the boiler temperature adjustment knob?

This one

GopErthike

kanji wrote: »

If it's locking out on the burner outside it has nothing to do with the timer.

It sounds like the air/fuel settings are slightly off, making it hard to start on a cold morning. It could possibly be an incorrect spark gap.

Either way I would recommend getting the service guy back to check it over and make sure he does a flue gas analysis to get the settings spot on.
This should sort it

Ps: kerosene or diesel?

This is the only correct answer here. So many people barking up the wrong tree. It is most likely down to combustion, and considering your burning kerosene, it should be easily rectified.

If you followed everyone's advice here it could cost you a lot of time and money.
Sorry for being grumpy about this.

Billy Bunting

GopErthike wrote: »

So many people barking up the wrong tree. .

I believe 2 people may have been barking up the wrong tree, others were looking for a little more clarity before we barked. :rolleyes:

meercat

GopErthike wrote: »

This is the only correct answer here. So many people barking up the wrong tree. It is most likely down to combustion, and considering your burning kerosene, it should be easily rectified.

If you followed everyone's advice here it could cost you a lot of time and money.
Sorry for being grumpy about this.

and why would you rule out the high limit stat tripping?

shane0007

meercat wrote: »

and why would you rule out the high limit stat tripping?

Because if the red burner button is needed to restart the burner it is flame failure. If the high limit stat is, then it is high temperature usually due to circulation issue.
That is why further clarification was needed. OP stated button above the red light. The red button is the red light so it needed to be established was the high limit above the burner or was the OP making an error with their description.

meercat

shane0007 wrote: »

Because if the red burner button is needed to restart the burner it is flame failure. If the high limit stat is, then it is high temperature usually due to circulation issue.
That is why further clarification was needed. OP stated button above the red light. The red button is the red light so it needed to be established was the high limit above the burner or was the OP making an error with their description.

thanks shane
i understand how the system works
i was just wondering how goperthike was so confident that he could point out the only correct answer posted

a bit more info from the op would help,but they may not be as technically minded as some on this forum

i think some replies are way off but most people are genuinely trying to help the op

like any internet forum ,the op will have to sift through the replies and find the relevant info

.jacksparrow.

shane0007 wrote: »

Because if the red burner button is needed to restart the burner it is flame failure. If the high limit stat is, then it is high temperature usually due to circulation issue.
That is why further clarification was needed. OP stated button above the red light. The red button is the red light so it needed to be established was the high limit above the burner or was the OP making an error with their description.

Actually a red light doesn't only mean flame failure,so you're wrong there.

shane0007

meercat wrote: »

thanks shane
i understand how the system works
i was just wondering how goperthike was so confident that he could point out the only correct answer posted

a bit more info from the op would help,but they may not be as technically minded as some on this forum

i think some replies are way off but most people are genuinely trying to help the op

like any internet forum ,the op will have to sift through the replies and find the relevant info

Kanji is more than likely to be correct, but clarification was required.

shane0007

.jacksparrow. wrote: »

Actually a red light doesn't only mean flame failure,so you're wrong there.

Expand please as red light is only flame failure, including flame failure to be established.

.jacksparrow.

shane0007 wrote: »

Expand please as red light is only flame failure, including flame failure to be established.

It could be faulty control box,photocell dirty,fan not working.all independent of flame failure

shane0007

And therefore flame would not be established which causes lock out. All sequences of ignition if they fail ultimately lead to flame failure and hence the red reset button must be physically pressed by a person to alert an issue. This is why the red reset button is an alert of flame failure.

.jacksparrow.

shane0007 wrote: »

And therefore flame would not be established which causes lock out. All sequences of ignition if they fail ultimately lead to flame failure and hence the red reset button must be physically pressed by a person to alert an issue. This is why the red reset button is an alert of flame failure.

Eh if its a faulty control box its nothing to do with flame failure,most of the time the box won't even reset if it is.so sorry but you're wrong.

.jacksparrow.

I think were taking this up the wrong way,I thought you were saying if its a red light well it can only mean flame failure through no oil etc.

Do you just mean the burner failed to light?that would make sense.

shane0007

I think you are missing the point.
Why do you think it has a lovely big red light; erm... to alert that the flame has not been established for whatever reason. If the burner goes through all of its sequences of ignition to reach flame establishment, the flame failure light will come on to give an alert of flame failure, hence physical pressing of the button to restart the sequence or investigate further.
You could argue your point with the new Firebird/Riello control box that gives a fault code light sequence to identify the cause of the fault as this may or may not have flame failure.

shane0007

.jacksparrow. wrote: »

I think were taking this up the wrong way,I thought you were saying if its a red light well it can only mean flame failure through no oil etc.

Do you just mean the burner failed to light?that would make sense.

Yes. The only purpose of the light is to notify that flame has not been established for whatever reason.

jimf

but if the burner fails to ignite for whatever reason it all boils down to flame failure
either lock out in mid cycle or failure to ignite so no flame established

so technically red light on is flame failure for whatever reason or whatever way you look at it ???????

.jacksparrow.

As pointed out a faulty control box won't even reset the burner,anyway it was a mix up.

boiler break downs

.jacksparrow. wrote: »

As pointed out a faulty control box won't even reset the burner,anyway it was a mix up.

red light on burner means its the burner.couldn be any thing with it.

boiler break downs

georgefalls wrote: »

Since the change in the weather, I have to go out every morning and press the reset button. Then it will work all day, no probs.
When its been off all night, same thing, have to go out and reset it.
Only been happening since the weather got colder.
Any thoughts..?
Cheers..!

what burner is it.if it runs fine for a while and the stops it more than likely is when it trys to start up again once it shut off on temperature..could be pump. transformer.electrodes cracked.maybe capacitor.

jimf

when burner is running does it sound rough/ any screeching noises

shane0007

Yes could well be a capacitor issue. It may have enough charge at normal temperatures but just not enough when the burner motor is cold in these colder mornings.
Well spotted.

boiler break downs

jimf wrote: »

when burner is running does it sound rough/ any screeching noises

why do you say screeching?what do you suspected

jimf

motor bearings can be b.......s

can run fine once burner has fired up and ran but can
be sticky when cold

overnite would be about right especially motor/pump end

.jacksparrow.

boiler break downs wrote: »

red light on burner means its the burner.couldn be any thing with it.

Exactly.

jimf

hum from motor i always suspect capacitor first maybe because its an easy change if faulty then the pump and then motor bearings /motor but bearings usually start getting noisy/rough/grindy before failure but watch capacitors as well they can be head wreckers had 1 recently reading perfect when cold but dropping when hot i think shane 007 had 1 as well not too long ago

boiler break downs

jimf wrote: »

hum from motor i always suspect capacitor first maybe because its an easy change if faulty then the pump and then motor bearings /motor but bearings usually start getting noisy/rough/grindy before failure but watch capacitors as well they can be head wreckers had 1 recently reading perfect when cold but dropping when hot i think shane 007 had 1 as well not too long ago

never heard of that with a capacitor.had it happen with a coil.

jimf

only seen it once and no logical explanation

it was on a boiler that failed to start when hot maybe once a day perfect when cold


boiler was in serious danger of being assaulted with a sledge

GopErthike

Billy Bunting wrote: »

I believe 2 people may have been barking up the wrong tree, others were looking for a little more clarity before we barked. :rolleyes:

I left out a comma, my apologies.

So, many people barking up the wrong tree.