Is changing chainrings noob friendly?

Canis Lupus

As title says, I need to replace front cogs (other bits like cassette I'm cool with). I've never messed with front rings before. Easy to do or should I leave it to a professional?

Lumen

It's easy, just use a bit of mechanical sympathy on the chainring bolts.

Canis Lupus

So the BB doesn't need to be messed with? I've a shimano hollowtech 2.

macnab

Canis Lupus wrote: »

So the BB doesn't need to be messed with? I've a shimano hollowtech 2.

dont over tighten the spindle nut as that will put an unwanted side load on the BB bearings, I like it just tight enough that there is the very tiniest bit of side play.

el Bastardo

It's as easy as it gets - practically tool-free - and no, you don't need to touch the BB.

Canis Lupus

Awesometastic. It needs to be done and just noticed CRC are doing great prices on all the bits at the moment so thought I'd give it a whirl. Cheers.

NeedMoreGears

Very straightforward job compared to changing a cassette. Just make sure you get the right bolt circle diameter (BCD). If memory serves they can be different on a compact (50/34) as compared to a 53/39 configuration. After that it's only a few allen key headed bolts (on mine anyway). If you're only replacing the chainrings, as Elbastardo says you shouldn't need to go near the BB

Tonyandthewhale

If you're only replacing the chainrings and not the cranks then all you need is an allen key, easy as pie.

victorcarrera

If you are changing like for like the most you will need are 5 and 6 mm allen keys and a multitool might not be strong enough. Some shimano and campag require a large flat bladed screwdriver or chisel to hold the inside bolt too, and some FSA rings have size 20 and 30 torx bolts.
If the new rings have a different number of teeth to the old, you will or should move the FD up or down to suit and readjust the cable tension and possibly the chain length.
Ensure the lug on the large chain ring and the triangle on (some) small ring lines up with the crank so the chain doesn't fall in there and for better shifting.
Check the BCD, speed (and pairing if that is applicable) of the chain rings before you buy.

letape

victorcarrera wrote: »

If you are changing like for like the most you will need are 5 and 6 mm allen keys and a multitool might not be strong enough. Some shimano and campag require a large flat bladed screwdriver or chisel to hold the inside bolt too, and some FSA rings have size 20 and 30 torx bolts.

The above is the bit that may prove difficult. Sometimes a flat bladed screwdriver may not be enough to hold the the inside bolt as you use an allen key on the outside bolt. There is a specific tool for this. 8 times out of 10 you may not need this, but I recently had to buy one when changing chainrings on an older campagnolo model.

See below -

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/tools-park-cnw-2c-chainwheel-bolt-peg-spanner/parktool600000000000

I would also recommend that you part loosen each bolt and not to remove each one fully before loosening the other bolts, so as to keep even pressure on each one.

cdaly_

As a quick aside here, can I use an double inner chainring as a replacement for a triple middle ring? Or does the double inner lack the shifting ramps/pins that the triple middle will have?

victorcarrera

cdaly_ wrote: »

As a quick aside here, can I use an double inner chainring as a replacement for a triple middle ring? Or does the double inner lack the shifting ramps/pins that the triple middle will have?

(Assuming its a 9 or 10 speed road bike.)
I haven't tried this but if old and new are Shimano or compatible they are both 130 BCD so it will go on at least. The standard double inner ring will have no ramping or bevel so upshifting from the small won't be as smooth and when in the small you may get chain rub on the middle in more gears than you used to. This may no be a problem if you have trimming. I wouldn't buy to try but if I had one spare it might be worth a try as many non standard combinations work OK. I have an old campag chainset with no ramping and it works but no where nearly as good as a modern set.

jimm

Check the chainring bolt heads, as some are not Allen but Torx (my Ultegra ones are Torx).

You will also need this tool for pre-tensioning the BB bearings before tightening the crank bolts. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3785