80mm insulation

M cebee

whats the handiest way of getting boxes flush finish on outside walls

Bruthal

Wood fixed to the wall was one method Ive used anyway, to step the boxes out.

M cebee

don't think there's any easy way

i assume most registered guys just fit 47mm boxes and leave it at that

unfortunately as i'm no longer registered dunno will i get away with that

leeomurchu

Were you asked to step them out by the inspector they always pick up on that.

If you dont want to put in wing boxes. you could cut the back out of one box essentially making a collar.

you can buy collars that extend out the box flush with the plasterboard.

M cebee

leeomurchu wrote: »

Were you asked to step them out by the inspector they always pick up on that.

If you dont want to put in wing boxes. you could cut the back out of one box essentially making a collar.

you can buy collars that extend out the box flush with the plasterboard.

i've mostly worked with the 50mm insulation and 47mm boxes in the past so it hasn't been much of an issue

lately the 80mm insulation seems to be the norm-i'll prob go with the collars


just wondering what everybody else is doin ?

meercat

dry lining boxs for me too(collars)
just clip the wavin to the wall and leave the tails hanging
if i have 2 cables i tape them together
get the slabber to leave only a small hole out for the wires
try and cut the boxs out before its plastered though
use a pad saw to trim the inside insulation where the box clamps
dont fit the boxs until the 2nd fix

M cebee

prob the simplest-dunno how reliable they are long term though

i normally only use the dry liners sparingly-i wouldn't want a load of call back if they start pulling out of the slab

meercat

M cebee wrote: »

prob the simplest-dunno how reliable they are long term though

i normally only use the dry liners sparingly-i wouldn't want a load of call back if they start pulling out of the slab

same here,but any time i fix boxs ,the cut out that the plasterer does never lines up
its just too awkward for them to cut the insulation on the slab exactly

Bruthal

I usually prefer the steel boxes, giving the final finished position in place on the first fix. Sometimes end up with cables not pulled out when slabbed, when leaving them ready for d/l boxes.

meercat

M cebee wrote: »

prob the simplest-dunno how reliable they are long term though

i normally only use the dry liners sparingly-i wouldn't want a load of call back if they start pulling out of the slab

also,sometimes a couple of screws drilled up/down at an angle through the dry lining box into the slab help retain the box in position(the black slab screws do the trick)

M cebee

ya -dont think i'd like to fit a load of em

there's no easy way with the 80mm

Bruthal

A house I was at last year the owner insisted on no dry lining boxes.

leeomurchu

robbie7730 wrote: »

A house I was at last year the owner insisted on no dry lining boxes.

I'd have been like that also. I hate the finish of dry lining boxes. Could you not cut timber and fix it to the wall then fix the box to the timber I used to do this not always the easiest option but worth the bit of effort.

Bruthal

leeomurchu wrote: »

I'd have been like that also. I hate the finish of dry lining boxes.

He was a bit awkward anyway. When I said the whole house needs to be rewired, (it was a complete gutout of downstairs with a large extension), we were told we were pulling the wool over his eyes. You should see the photos of the hidden connectors in the walls, ceilings, everywhere, found during rewiring.

Could you not cut timber and fix it to the wall then fix the box to the timber I used to do this not always the easiest option but worth the bit of effort.

Indeed

leeomurchu

robbie7730 wrote: »

He was a bit awkward anyway. When I said the whole house needs to be rewired, (it was a complete gutout of downstairs with a large extension), we were told we were pulling the wool over his eyes. You should see the photos of the hidden connectors in the walls, ceilings, everywhere, found during rewiring.




Indeed

Ah sure aren't they all the same as soon as the word rewire is mentioned, "you're trying to rob me." :eek:

I've rewired a few places that i'd have sweared that they gave away junction boxes and only sold cable by the yard.

Bruthal

leeomurchu wrote: »

Ah sure aren't they all the same as soon as the word rewire is mentioned, "you're trying to rob me." :eek:

I've rewired a few places that i'd have sweared that they gave away junction boxes and only sold cable by the yard.

Well he knew the downstairs was getting totally gutted, and huge extension done. All that was left was 3 bedrooms upstairs for a complete rewire. Ceiling slabs downstairs and all were taken down, and jb`s everywhere for the sockets upstairs, real cowboy efforts as well, and still he wouldnt go for doing the full rewire, a chance as good which will not likely arise again.

Common sense is just not that common.

M cebee

they've switched to 50mm now so there's only about 10 points with 80mm slab
i'll fit 35mm extensions on them

maybe i don't get something re:clipping wavin to wall and battens but any job i've been on, the wavin has to be fitted flush and only the box is fitted surface.
don't see how battens can be fitted behind box without slabber having to spend time gouging out extra insulation

meercat

M cebee wrote: »

they've switched to 50mm now so there's only about 10 points with 80mm slab
i'll fit 35mm extensions on them

maybe i don't get something re:clipping wavin to wall and battens but any job i've been on, the wavin has to be fitted flush and only the box is fitted surface.
don't see how battens can be fitted behind box without slabber having to spend time gouging out extra insulation

might have to chase wavins in ,if the builder wont allow stripping the insulation off the back of the board alright

reci not too keen on extension screws (or even 50 or 75mm screws )as they want the box to contact the back of the slab(pulled me up on it a few times)

M cebee

meercat wrote: »

might have to chase wavins in ,if the builder wont allow stripping the insulation off the back of the board alright

reci not too keen on extension screws (or even 50 or 75mm screws )as they want the box to contact the back of the slab(pulled me up on it a few times)

35mm extension boxes on top of the 47mm
- not screws
to bring the box to a flush finish

meercat

M cebee wrote: »

35mm extension boxes on top of the 47mm
- not screws
to bring the box to a flush finish

sorry

M cebee

meercat wrote: »

sorry

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/2-x-APPLEBY-1-Gang-Extension-Box-35mm-Part-SB681-1G-/221020594646

47+35=82mm job done hopefully
still not a great job either

don't see how you can put a batten behind the box in practise

meercat

M cebee wrote: »

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/2-x-APPLEBY-1-Gang-Extension-Box-35mm-Part-SB681-1G-/221020594646

47+35=82mm job done hopefully
still not a great job either

don't see how you can put a batten behind the box in practise

yeah
the plasterers will have to gouge the insulation off the back of the slab and then cut the box out perfect in the slab,it never happens right and the cut out is always too big or way off

any pics paddy????;)

Bruthal

meercat wrote: »

yeah
the plasterers will have to gouge the insulation off the back of the slab and then cut the box out perfect in the slab,it never happens right and the cut out is always too big or way off

any pics paddy????;)

Im debating with paddy now, dont distract him:)

Cutting the slab out would have to happen even if the box was screwed straight to the wall. Stepping it out wouldnt make much difference to that. I have used battons behind them, just cut a bit of wood no bigger than the size of the box, screw wood to wall, screw box to wood.

In aniother aspect, if there are a row of boxes such as behind a tv etc, id put a long straight batton horizontal, to sit the boxes on (with the boxes screwed to the wall), to have them all perfectly aligned. Often see in houses the sockets all over the place in terms of being level.

meercat

robbie7730 wrote: »

Im debating with paddy now, dont distract him:)

link???

cast_iron

robbie7730 wrote: »

Cutting the slab out would have to happen even if the box was screwed straight to the wall. Stepping it out wouldnt make much difference to that. I have used battons behind them, just cut a bit of wood no bigger than the size of the box, screw wood to wall, screw box to wood.

Yea this is the best way I think. The fact that 80mm insulation is being used makes no odds to anything. It's either chase the wall for the wavin or not. A bit of communication with the builder should yield a good compromise from the outset. No matter what happens, the builder will have to cut the insulation for the box location.

I don't like the dry liner option on a new job - they are ok when getting yourself out of a tricky spot on an already finished job. They give a terrible looking finish, and should only be used as last resort.

eire-kp

cast_iron wrote: »

Yea this is the best way I think. The fact that 80mm insulation is being used makes no odds to anything. It's either chase the wall for the wavin or not. A bit of communication with the builder should yield a good compromise from the outset. No matter what happens, the builder will have to cut the insulation for the box location.

I don't like the dry liner option on a new job - they are ok when getting yourself out of a tricky spot on an already finished job. They give a terrible looking finish, and should only be used as last resort.

Common sense would suggest that the sinking the conduit in the chase is the only practical way for the slabber/builder/plaster who's fitting the insulated slabs. There's no way either would agree to anything else.

As an electrician who done a bit of slabbing for extra money while an apprentice I wouldn't blame them either.
The last house I done I made up a load of pieces of timber the correct length. E.g. two 2 gang box's with a metal coupler between them etc in my work shop and pre-drilled holes etc

All I had to do was run a masonry bit through them and screw them up.
Quick and hassle free for all.

M cebee

eire-kp wrote: »

Common sense would suggest that the sinking the conduit in the chase is the only practical way for the slabber/builder/plaster who's fitting the insulated slabs. There's no way either would agree to anything else.

As an electrician who done a bit of slabbing for extra money while an apprentice I wouldn't blame them either.
The last house I done I made up a load of pieces of timber the correct length. E.g. two 2 gang box's with a metal coupler between them etc in my work shop and pre-drilled holes etc

All I had to do was run a masonry bit through them and screw them up.
Quick and hassle free for all.

ya handy if you them made up before

i was trying to avoid timber as i usually bring the wires in the back of the box through 20mm open rubber grommits

i found when i used the top knockouts that the slabbers used to squash the wires