Started cycling - Advice please!

antomorro-sei

How's it going folks?

Well, I moved back from Barcelona this summer to finish the final year in college and wanna cycle to UCD, instead of driving in all the time! Mainly for fitness reasons too!

I live in Bluebell, so the cylce is 10.5km from my front door to where I lock up the bike in UCD. Now, it takes me around 40 odd minutes to get there, which I'm sure, isn't very quick. So, my main problem is the speed. The bike I've owned since I was like 12 is a type of suspension mountain bike thing and I try my best at cycling in Gear 6, but still its very slow.

So, I was thinking of getting a new (or 2nd hand?) bike in the next few weeks/months. I'd have maybe €300/400 to spend. Now, I've been reading around and stuff, before making this thread, but I'm pretty confused about the difference between road and hybrid bikes. Like, realistically, I'm never going to go off road with the bike, so why should I go for a hybrid? They do seem to be slightly cheaper though? Then, the road bikes seem to be more expensive, so I'm pretty confused!

Now, the height of the bikes, hows it best that I'm supposed to know these? I saw two Giant bikes on Adverts.ie and they're both "Size L", but I really haven't a breeze what height to get?



Anyway, I'm sorry if the Q's above are stupid, I really just haven't a clue when it comes to bikes and just figured it'd be easier to make a thread here!

Any help would be appreciated, cheers!

kincsem

Road bike - drop bar "racer". Hybrid bike - flat bar bike (imo)

The most important thing to buy is a good lock, preferably two locks. Do not get a cable lock. Get something like both of these.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=18394
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=89012
That's all your money spent. None left to buy a bike.

Look up "bike sizing chart" on the internet. Do not buy a bike that is the wrong size for you.
You will probably bring stuff with you on the bike. So get a rack (back carrier) and preferable a pannier (soft bag to hold stuff and detachable)to keep the weight low and secure.

kincsem

I am 5'8" = 172 cm. My bikes are 54 cm. But look up charts to know your bike size.
Other things you need: gloves; helmet(y/n); waterproof jacket; waterproof leggings; shoe covers; mini-tool; spare inner tubes; tyre levers; mini-pump.
Lidl often stock bike clothes. They are cheap and ok.

antomorro-sei

kincsem wrote: »

Road bike - drop bar "racer". Hybrid bike - flat bar bike (imo)

The most important thing to buy is a good lock, preferably two locks. Do not get a cable lock. Get something like both of these.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=18394
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=89012
That's all your money spent. None left to buy a bike.

Look up "bike sizing chart" on the internet. Do not buy a bike that is the wrong size for you.
You will probably bring stuff with you on the bike. So get a rack (back carrier) and preferable a pannier (soft bag to hold stuff and detachable)to keep the weight low and secure.

Cheers, suppose I should have looked up the bike sizing chart before I posted here!

I usually don't have that much with me anyway, just a schoolbag with a laptop and an A4 pad so the weight wouldn't be all too bad!

But, why would I spend that much on locks for my current bike? I'd be seriously surprised if anyone stole that!

kincsem wrote: »

I am 5'8" = 172 cm. My bikes are 54 cm. But look up charts to know your bike size.
Other things you need: gloves; helmet(y/n); waterproof jacket; waterproof leggings; shoe covers; mini-tool; spare inner tubes; tyre levers; mini-pump.
Lidl often stock bike clothes. They are cheap and ok.

Thanks, I think 56cm is the right size for me. I have gloves, waterproof leggings, shoe covers and a small pump. I'll get a waterproof jacket soon. And the other parts too!

Anyway, thanks a lot for the replies. Can any of yiz point me in the direction of where to look for a bike? Or reccomend a bike even?

Cheers,
Anto

cdaly_

antomorro-sei wrote: »

But, why would I spend that much on locks for my current bike? I'd be seriously surprised if anyone stole that!

Kryptonite mini is GBP62 on amazon. Definitely worth getting. UCD is a popular spot for bike theft.

reallyunique

"Road bikes" aren't road bikes, they're road-racing bikes. They are set up to be light and fast, like race cars. And like race cars they don't have mudguards or a place for luggage (the back pack thing is fine but no matter how little you've got in it the bag makes your back all sweaty). Road bikes also have skinny tyres and stiff wheels and frames that transmit all the little bumps in the road up into you. Of course all this doesn't matter when you're racing if you're just commuting then why not be as comfortable as you can be.

Hybrids are like road bikes but come with flat bars and usually fatter tyres than will fit on a racer. These soak up some of the bumps and make the journey a bit more pleasurable. Some of them can offer better resistance to punctures too. Hybrids will usually be able to accept full mudguards which keep the mud off you and your kit. It doesn't rain that much in Dublin but the roads are often wet and mucky. They can take racks for panniers where you can put your locks and other gear so you don't need a backpack.

The flat vs dropped handlebar thing is really a personal choice for commuting. I used to use flat/riser bars and found them very comfortable and I'm now on a drop bar bike and its fine but not as relaxed as the risers. For a 10k commute there's little difference in performance.

Racer vs hybrid: in speed terms there's not much in it if you're not fit. The faster you can go the faster the racer will feel. Around town you won't be going that fast and things like traffic lights and your own fitness will set the pace more than anything. As you get fitter the racer will allow you to go faster but adding 10kph to your top speed wont take much off your point-to-point time and going faster makes you sweat more.

Tyres: puncture resistance is more important than speed. You can leave five minutes earlier but punctures make you late, dirty and generally stressed.

Locks are important! If you leave your bike anywhere but especially in a place like UCD then it's likely to get nicked. Replacing the bike will cost more than the locks. Get the best ones or expect to walk home eventually.

Of course, this is just one OAP's perspective. Whatever you get, enjoy moving faster than the cars

antomorro-sei

reallyunique wrote: »

"Road bikes" aren't road bikes, they're road-racing bikes. They are set up to be light and fast, like race cars. And like race cars they don't have mudguards or a place for luggage (the back pack thing is fine but no matter how little you've got in it the bag makes your back all sweaty). Road bikes also have skinny tyres and stiff wheels and frames that transmit all the little bumps in the road up into you. Of course all this doesn't matter when you're racing if you're just commuting then why not be as comfortable as you can be.

Hybrids are like road bikes but come with flat bars and usually fatter tyres than will fit on a racer. These soak up some of the bumps and make the journey a bit more pleasurable. Some of them can offer better resistance to punctures too. Hybrids will usually be able to accept full mudguards which keep the mud off you and your kit. It doesn't rain that much in Dublin but the roads are often wet and mucky. They can take racks for panniers where you can put your locks and other gear so you don't need a backpack.

The flat vs dropped handlebar thing is really a personal choice for commuting. I used to use flat/riser bars and found them very comfortable and I'm now on a drop bar bike and its fine but not as relaxed as the risers. For a 10k commute there's little difference in performance.

Racer vs hybrid: in speed terms there's not much in it if you're not fit. The faster you can go the faster the racer will feel. Around town you won't be going that fast and things like traffic lights and your own fitness will set the pace more than anything. As you get fitter the racer will allow you to go faster but adding 10kph to your top speed wont take much off your point-to-point time and going faster makes you sweat more.

Tyres: puncture resistance is more important than speed. You can leave five minutes earlier but punctures make you late, dirty and generally stressed.

Locks are important! If you leave your bike anywhere but especially in a place like UCD then it's likely to get nicked. Replacing the bike will cost more than the locks. Get the best ones or expect to walk home eventually.

Of course, this is just one OAP's perspective. Whatever you get, enjoy moving faster than the cars

Thank you very much for the detailed reply. Much appreciated!

I think now, the best for me to do is to find a good second hand hybrid, and buy me one of those Kryptonite locks too. And a waterproof jacket, and then I should be grand!

Lumen

reallyunique wrote: »

"Road bikes" aren't road bikes, they're road-racing bikes. They are set up to be light and fast, like race cars. And like race cars they don't have mudguards or a place for luggage (the back pack thing is fine but no matter how little you've got in it the bag makes your back all sweaty). Road bikes also have skinny tyres and stiff wheels and frames that transmit all the little bumps in the road up into you. Of course all this doesn't matter when you're racing if you're just commuting then why not be as comfortable as you can be.

There are plenty of drop-bar bikes whose performance is pretty much indistinguishable from a pure "racer" and that will take full mudguards and a rack for panniers.

Tolerably practical drop-bar bikes are only difficult to find because the market is dominated by bikes bought for "exercise".

The only real limitation is lack of clearance for fat tyres, but skinny tyres aren't really hard to live with once you're used to them.

kuro_man

you should budget for shoes and cleats too; SPDs are probably best for commuting because you can walk in them, leave your regular shoes in the locker.
http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k417/a315/spd-pedals-pd-m424-lx.html
http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k680/a52045/sh-mt22-touring-shoes.html

sometime aldi/lidl do cheap SPD shoes

reallyunique

Agree with Lumen about the "tolerably practical" drop bar bikes with racer-like performance but if you don't race maybe the performance won't justify the tolerating. Personally I hate the skinny tyres but I'm old and only cycle for reasons other than racing.
I have a drop bar tourer and find it pretty comfortable but not significantly faster in town than any of my other bikes (though it does have higher gearing than usual for a tourer so I can get higher peak speeds). On longer rides I find the drop bars better for going into headwinds but I don't find the bars more comfortable.

I understand that I'm pretty much alone here in not loving drop bars so don't trust my opinion. Try a few bikes and don't be swayed by what sales weasels or other riders think.
The great thing about bikes is you can sell them without losing a ton of money and get a different one if you find that your requirements change. Be careful though or you can end up not selling and have a house full of bikes