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Kanger T2's breaking

  • 16-10-2012 6:36pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,376 ✭✭✭


    I have 3 Kanger T2's and two of them seem to be broke, both in 2 different ways.

    One is just dead, I cant get any vapour through it, it was working, now its not for some reason.

    The other is different, the taste is off, its not as it should be, kind of burnt taste. The liquid in it is turning darker as well, and also the light on the battery has gone yellow, which I am assuming is due to liquid getting into the light.

    Are these repairable, and if so, is it difficult?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 984 ✭✭✭newmark


    Anyone wrote: »
    I have 3 Kanger T2's and two of them seem to be broke, both in 2 different ways.

    One is just dead, I cant get any vapour through it, it was working, now its not for some reason.

    The other is different, the taste is off, its not as it should be, kind of burnt taste. The liquid in it is turning darker as well, and also the light on the battery has gone yellow, which I am assuming is due to liquid getting into the light.

    Are these repairable, and if so, is it difficult?

    The one that's dead may have blown the coil and you just need to buy a new head for about €2 and unscrew the old one and replace it.

    The one with the burnt taste - It could be just that its lived its life and needs the head replaced as well or you could try cleaning it out and doing a dry burn to remove any residue that's built up on the coil.

    You do a dry burn by first removing the rubber part that's overhead the coil, then press the battery in while there's no liquid on it for about 4 or 5 seconds and stopping and then repeating. In between every few dry burns try gently scraping the residue with a cocktail stick or something and keep repeating until the coils is clean again. The only thing is you need to be careful you don't keep the battery powered in while doing this as it is easy to blow the coil if left in too long while no juice on it. Sometimes though it can bring it back to nearly new.

    Apart from this it's important to let the liquid soak in well when first filling any type of cartomiser or clearomisers ideally for 10 minutes or longer to give the liquid a chance to get to the coils so that it doesn't burn.

    Th eliquid turning darker is nothing to worry about and is just the effect of the heat from the coil on the liquid as far as I'm aware.

    You can also try searching on you-tube for tutorial videos on cleaning out clearomisers and dry burning.

    I'm not sure about the battery light going yellow though I doubt its caused by the liquid getting into the light but it is possible too. It may be that the battery light changes colour as its being used to let you know that its running lower on power.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,376 ✭✭✭Anyone


    Cheers Newmark,

    I have one good one left, will take a look at some vids tomorrow about repairing, but I know myself I am useless at finicky little things like that.

    Luckily I placed an order yesterday and ordered some replacement heads, so might be able to resurect the dead one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,645 ✭✭✭krissovo


    One thing to check is battery connection at the bottom of the T2, two of mine have been pushed up by one of my grenade batteries so it will not work on any of my other batteries. A quick tweak with a screw driver has dropped the connection and it now works fine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,376 ✭✭✭Anyone


    krissovo wrote: »
    One thing to check is battery connection at the bottom of the T2, two of mine have been pushed up by one of my grenade batteries so it will not work on any of my other batteries. A quick tweak with a screw driver has dropped the connection and it now works fine.

    Do you mean the thing that looks like a screw head?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,645 ✭✭✭krissovo


    That's right, I poked about with a small screw driver as it was pushed in too far and eased it out slightly.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,376 ✭✭✭Anyone


    krissovo wrote: »
    That's right, I poked about with a small screw driver as it was pushed in too far and eased it out slightly.

    Ok cheers, I'll give that a go as well.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 984 ✭✭✭newmark


    krissovo wrote: »
    One thing to check is battery connection at the bottom of the T2, two of mine have been pushed up by one of my grenade batteries so it will not work on any of my other batteries. A quick tweak with a screw driver has dropped the connection and it now works fine.

    Great point Krissova I never thought of that possibility :)
    Its also possible that the connection on the battery itself may have dropped down as well and need to be gently pulled up with a cocktail stick well to make the connection :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,376 ✭✭✭Anyone


    Ok well its not the battery connectors. The battery connection is fine as they work on the other Kangers, and I tried lowering the connection on the Kanger.

    My replacement heads got delivered today, so I'll try them later on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,376 ✭✭✭Anyone


    Ok this is doing my head in....long wicks replacement heads...why? After 2-3 pulls, everything tastes like burnt wick, is it ok to cut them?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,026 ✭✭✭grindle


    The wicks? Go for it!


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