Help fitting replacement zone valve actuator.

MaryK666

I have two Drayton Za5 zone valve actuators in my hotpress which control the heating, one for upstairs and one for downstairs.
Unfortunately, and probably due to poor workmanship on the part of the people who installed the heating before we bought the house, the spring has gone on one of the actuators.
After a lot of hassle I have managed to get a replacement actuator and now just need to change it.

I have had a look inside the actuator and realise that it's impossible to just swap one for the other on the current wiring without risk of damaging the actual actuator so I'm not even going to try that.

The wiring goes from the actuator into an "ACL lifestyle wiring centre" with a big red "230 volts" warning on the front so I will have to get into this, remove the wiring for the old actuator and replace it with the new one.

The question is, before I even think about starting on this, how simple is it to do?

It needs to be done asap because, with the weather getting colder, I have to physically turn the heating on and off at the mains because, if left on timer, it stays on all the time due to the broken actuator and I can't afford the heating bill.

I'm capable of changing plugs and know some very basic stuff about electrics but have never attempted anything like this before. I know that I would have to turn all the power to the house off at the mains before I even look sideways at it but is there anything in particular I need to know and anything in particular I need to be careful with?

Any information at all would be very gratefully appreciated.

aujopimur

Just isolate the power supply to the heating, then reconnect like with like.

MaryK666

Is it really that simple?

Is there any danger from the wiring centre once the power is off at the mains?

I assume there's no charge or anything like there would hold a charge like a capacitor and I just regular screwdrivers?

aujopimur

Once the mains is isolated you'll be ok, the colours of the cables may vary,
but the brown/blue will be the same on both, the other two will not matter as long as they are connected the same as the old ones.

MaryK666

Thanks so much Aujopimur. I followed your advice today, replaced the actuator and switched on the power and the system only to find that I need a second one as the other one for the heating is also stuffed.
The good news is that the one for the hot water is fine so at least that's something.
I now have to get back on to the company in the UK to get another one as, not being a contractor or having an account with them, the few companies in Ireland that can get them, won't deal with me. I would have thought that, in the middle of a recession, they'd be glad of the business - no matter how small - but I was wrong.

If anyone knows where I could get one in Ireland for less than 60 Euro, please let me know. If not, I'll be back on to the English company on Monday to order another for that price.

spireland32

MT Agencies in finglas do drayton products

aujopimur

If you post a photo of the old one it might be possible to get a match to a different brand.

blindsider

Didn't want to start a new thread for s similar issue:

I have 3 x Heatmerchants motorised valves - 2 have failed in the last 2 yrs (1 just recently) and I'm thinking of replacing them.

The HM are re-badged Horstmann valves (so I'm told) 2 way Part No. F222 - they are blue in colour and hard-wired.

I was thinking of replacing them with these: http://www.ephcontrols.com/products/view/1/v22_d/2_port_compression

They have a 5 yr warranty and I'm being quoted €49 ea.

My question is re the wiring - is it straightforward to do? I can wire a plug etc, but not that much more.

If I switch off the power, open the HM box, remove the cable etc, could I join the cables with a plastic connector, or is there more to it than that?

Thanks!

aujopimur

Connect like with like in the box where the originals are connected.

blindsider

aujopimur wrote: »

Connect like with like in the box where the originals are connected.

The HM unit has the wiring inside the box - the EPH unit has a cable that terminates on a plug which plugs in to the actuator.

Would a plastic connector/terminal block be my best bet?

aujopimur

You can join the cables in a connector box if you wish, but it wouuld tidier if you you disconnect the original and connect the new in the same place.

blindsider

aujopimur wrote: »

You can join the cables in a connector box if you wish, but it wouuld tidier if you you disconnect the original and connect the new in the same place.

Aujopimur - thanks for taking the time to reply - it's much appreciated.

The heatmerchants unit has thw wiring on the inide. The EPH unit has the wiring on an external connector plug as per this: http://www.ephcontrols.com/products/categories/1

Can I remove the cable from the old unit, open the connector plug, wire the old cable into the new plug and go from there? I'm hoping that's what I can do....

Robbie.G

blindsider wrote: »

aujopimur wrote: »

You can join the cables in a connector box if you wish, but it wouuld tidier if you you disconnect the original and connect the new in the same place.

Aujopimur - thanks for taking the time to reply - it's much appreciated.

The heatmerchants unit has thw wiring on the inide. The EPH unit has the wiring on an external connector plug as per this: http://www.ephcontrols.com/products/categories/1

Can I remove the cable from the old unit, open the connector plug, wire the old cable into the new plug and go from there? I'm hoping that's what I can do....

Follow the cable from the hm actuator to the wiring centre on the wall disconnect the cables from the wiring centre and connect the eph one in the same way
Make sure you turn off the power to the heating at the fused spur or fuse board

blindsider

Robbie.G wrote: »

Follow the cable from the hm actuator to the wiring centre on the wall disconnect the cables from the wiring centre and connect the eph one in the same way
Make sure you turn off the power to the heating at the fused spur or fuse board

That looks like a plan - I've just had a quick look and I reckon I might chance that - thanks loads!!! -and I'll let you know how I get on!

birefall

Just wondered how you got on. I did exactly the same job today and found that the new (yellow) actuator didn't "click" onto the valve fully. I secured it with two cable ties but I'm wondering if it should fit exactly as the guy in Heat Merchants said it would be a direct replacement.

blindsider

I haven't gotten round to it unfortunately. I'm hoping to give it a go over Christmas.......

Abbrosshigh

You can buy an actuator in B & Q for Drayton for €19.99 Remove the plastic housing and remove the two screws holding the actuator in place. Disconnect the two yellow wires and reverse to replace. A lot cheaper and easier than replacing the unit.

corkgsxr

did ya screw out the small screw that stops the button being pushed?

that would stop it clicking on.

quietsailor

I saw this problem on a Sauter valves and what they had was a plastic dot stuck onto the brass valve body and when the new actuator motor was being pressed on this dot kept the actuator away from the body enough to prevent it clicking in place. All we did was remove the dot and it clicked firmly in place

sungear

Abbrosshigh wrote: »

You can buy an actuator in B & Q for Drayton for €19.99 Remove the plastic housing and remove the two screws holding the actuator in place. Disconnect the two yellow wires and reverse to replace. A lot cheaper and easier than replacing the unit.

Am having what i think is similar problem on a pair of sunvic 1801 valves,
Are these actuators the motors?
http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/plumbing/plumbing-supplies/central_heating_pumps___controls/-specificproducttype-other_pumps___controls/Drayton-Replacement-Synchronous-Motor-230V-27010BQ-Brushed-Steel-9271199
or do you mean the whole plastic unit?
Are the motors generic to most valves, looks similar to what is inside when I had the cover off one of the sunvic zone valves.

After reading up here a bit I am beginning to see, it seems the thermostat when it calls for heat, turns the valve and this then turns the boiler on?
is that correct? but there is a timer built in on the boiler (vokera mynute 16e) so i assume this is only possible when the timer is set to come on?

The thing is there are two 2-port motorised valves with 4 wires, one each for the u/stairs and d/stairs heating but nothing for the tank hot water (nor a tank stat) so it looks like the timer controls the heating??
I now assume these valves are wired back into the boiler?

Robbie.G

sungear wrote: »

Am having what i think is similar problem on a pair of sunvic 1801 valves,
Are these actuators the motors?
http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/plumbing/plumbing-supplies/central_heating_pumps___controls/-specificproducttype-other_pumps___controls/Drayton-Replacement-Synchronous-Motor-230V-27010BQ-Brushed-Steel-9271199
or do you mean the whole plastic unit?
Are the motors generic to most valves, looks similar to what is inside when I had the cover off one of the sunvic zone valves.

After reading up here a bit I am beginning to see, it seems the thermostat when it calls for heat, turns the valve and this then turns the boiler on?
is that correct? but there is a timer built in on the boiler (vokera mynute 16e) so i assume this is only possible when the timer is set to come on?

The thing is there are two 2-port motorised valves with 4 wires, one each for the u/stairs and d/stairs heating but nothing for the tank hot water (nor a tank stat) so it looks like the timer controls the heating??
I now assume these valves are wired back into the boiler?

Have you found the connector block are all wires connected as the two valves aren't working I think there is no supply coming to them. They are not wired the way you describe they are only wired two wire.When you move the lever on the side of the actuator does the boiler come one if not the valves are only been used as a basic switch I think you are getting slightly out of your depth call in someone

sungear

Robbie.G wrote: »

Have you found the connector block are all wires connected as the two valves aren't working I think there is no supply coming to them. They are not wired the way you describe they are only wired two wire.When you move the lever on the side of the actuator does the boiler come one if not the valves are only been used as a basic switch I think you are getting slightly out of your depth call in someone

The wires I can see under the cover of the actuator (brown,blue,grey,orange) are all connected in there to a little board, its a sunvic 1801. I will check hopefully today to see if there is power there, didnt get a chance to yet but also as it the wire is so short and its in an awkward place at the back of the hotpress.
While I want to get it done, at the moment the heating is working as I have manually rotated the valve open with the actuator removed, I left the actuator off both valves as they kept closing automatically, so there must be power there.

Other than the connections above, the only wires i can see are at the thermostats, (brown in and brown out),
but there is no wiring junction box to be found anywhere??? its a mystery, I am starting to assume that it is a wire going directly to the boiler?? but looking around and up under the boiler from below, I can see no other wires appearing from around the boiler.

After searching here on boards, am I right in thinking
1, the thermostat when it detects temperature is below what is requested allows power to pass across it to open the valve?
then
2, the valve opens and then calls for the boiler to turn on?

there is also a timer on the boiler and the boiler will turn on independantly of the thermostats calling for heat as it heats the tank hot water but there is no valve controlling that, hot water supply pipe comes up out of the floor, tees off for the tank and then continues on where two valves are teed off to feed the u/stairs and d/stairs zones.

edit, I didnt answer what you asked about the lever at the side, its actually a wheel recessed into the cover of the actuator at the bottom of the actuator, but the heating can already be on from the timer as it feeds the hot water tank, which has no motorised valve, the tank hot supply is teed off before the valves for the two floor zones. So if i turned it to open, it only allows hot water to go through the valve not ask the boiler to come on, it seems the boiler comes on from the mechanical timer built into the boiler and then the valves open when the thermostats detect they are lower than the temperature which they are set at.

Robbie.G

You are going to have to call out someone as I don't think anyone is going to be able
To explain it.

sungear

Robbie.G wrote: »

You are going to have to call out someone as I don't think anyone is going to be able
To explain it.

I haven't given up completely yet, but if I end up having to call someone which is likely, what kind of plumber do I look for, golden pages and just ask them do they do vokeras and motorised valves? or is there a better place to look?
any clue for what labour could cost?

Robbie.G

sungear wrote: »

I haven't given up completely yet, but if I end up having to call someone which is likely, what kind of plumber do I look for, golden pages and just ask them do they do vokeras and motorised valves? or is there a better place to look?
any clue for what labour could cost?

Where are you based.I would expect somewhere in the region of €60 -€80 for call and repair excluding any parts.Ask them if they work on motorised valves and heating controls any decent RGI should know about them.Search for installer in your area www.rgii.ie

sungear

Robbie.G wrote: »

Where are you based.I would expect somewhere in the region of €60 -€80 for call and repair excluding any parts.Ask them if they work on motorised valves and heating controls any decent RGI should know about them.Search for installer in your area www.rgii.ie

Im in Dublin, I'll have a look on the website, if anything I may eliminate some things or be in a position to tell them I checked a,b and c.