is there any decent survival knives out there?

thermo

several years ago i was givin a present of a survival knife the same as this;

the problem was it felt cheap and weak and would not stand up to much use. i like the idea of the kit/knife but not the quality. so my question is, is there anything out there with a similar concept but able to handle a bit of abuse?
thanks in advance.

Doc Ruby

Nah, anything with gadgets and gewgaws is not a good idea. You want a stout, tough, easy to maintain and extremely sharp knife. Preferences vary but I like the blades on mine longer than my hand usually. Most carry two blades, one heavy single edge for the rough work and one smaller folder for the fine work.

I have a Ka-bar and a Cold Steel Caledonian Edge.

wolfeye

These are pretty decent.

http://www.heinnie.com/Gerber-Knives/Fixed-Blade-Knives/Gerber-LMF-II-Infantry/p-144-996-1042/

http://www.heinnie.com/Gerber-Knives/Fixed-Blade-Knives/Gerber-Prodigy/p-144-996-4265/

Blades made in usa not china.

thermo

cheers, i have one of these (serious bit of kit, wicked sharp)
http://www.eickhorn-solingen.de/epages/62631327.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/62631327/Products/810105N

i just fancied one similar to what i posted but able to withstand abuse.

Doc Ruby

thermo wrote: »

i just fancied one similar to what i posted but able to withstand abuse.

You could always get a custom made sheath for that wolverine. Or learn how to work leather and make it for yourself, even better, if you want a job done right after all. Its not brain surgery.

thermo

Doc Ruby wrote: »

You could always get a custom made sheath for that wolverine. Or learn how to work leather and make it for yourself, even better, if you want a job done right after all. Its not brain surgery.

thats an option i never considered :eek: maybe make some kind of modification to the sheath to carry a few bits.

thanks for the replys.

Doc Ruby

thermo wrote: »

maybe make some kind of modification to the sheath to carry a few bits.

Welcome to the dark side, laddie. I'd include a slot for a good lump of a firesteel, a couple of loops to wrap paracord around (never got why people used cord for handles, after you use it you have no handle), and if you're feeling really ambitious, a secondary sheath for your folder. Plus a small pouch for various bits. And probably a clip at the bottom and a carabiner at the top for side carry on the back of your belt or front of your torso.

I can't hit the side of a barn door from ten paces with a catapult, although I managed to throw a chopstick through a cardboard box from that distance the last day. One of those things I guess.

thermo

i like the suggestions, i have a watchstrap i done myself which contains 10ft of 550 paracord, how much (paracord) do people usually keep as part of their kit?

Hi OP,
That's the survival knife that I had when I joined Scouts! Didn't know they were made any more (it was twenty years ago when I had mine...).

Either way, cheers for the photo, it was a blast from the past!

I own a Wilkinson Sword "Dartmoor" survival knife. Unfortunately, I don't think WS make knives anymore (a great shame!). Love my survival knife.

Blog:
www.huntforageharvest.com

Twitter:
http://twitter.com/#!/druss_rua

Please "Like" my Facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/HuntForageHarvest

thermo

it was my dads and he passed gave it to me when i started recruit training, he reckoned i would use it more! so mine is an oldie too..........................

Deise Musashi

Lots of good knives out there, find one you like.

Check out the likes of Tops, ESEE, DPX, Entrek, Condor, Buck, Mora, Svord and lots more.

Add something like the combat master nylon sheath, if your choice of knife doesn't come with a decent sheath.

http://www.specopsbrand.com/combat-master-knife-sheath-long.html

Put whatever firesteel, paracord etc. in and around the sheath to suit your own needs.

Or do a search on Heinnies for words like survival and check the results.

http://www.heinnie.com/search.asp?strKeywords=survival&strSearchCriteria=exact&CAT_ID=0&numPriceMin=&numPriceMax=&btnSubmit=Search

peter bermingham

Or you could buy a kit from these two places http://swc-handmade-knives.co.uk/SWC_handmade_Knives/ABOUT_SWC.html and http://berniegarlandknives.com/ they have ones that are sharpened and hardened all you do put on the handle this place has some cool woods for handles https://www.brisa.fi/portal/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1

Hibrion

As we found out on our own thread on the subject, everyone's idea of a survival knife is different, so the best thing to do is just to find a knife that will suit the environment in which you might find yourself.

I'll admit, it's a lot harder than it sounds. For me, a survival knife is something I could use in a temperate climate and likely in a more rural environment. Because of this, most bushcraft style knives are well suited to my needs.

My current favorite in an Enzo trapper I handled myself in Arizona desert Ironwood.

Deerhound

I have a friend in the States whose idea of the perfect survival knife is the Gurkha Kukri, I've seen him use it replacing an axe for camp set up, replacing a cleaver for butchering, as matter of fact outside of fine work he uses it constantly outdoors and it's a hell of a defensive/offensive weapon.
I must admit to being a bit of an equipment junky and if the equipment has multiple uses so much the better. Its main drawback (weight) is also one of its main advantages (strength, durability).
After seeing his in action I set about making enquiries about them. You can pick them up fairly cheap online but the cheaper one are usually knockoffs made in India of dubious steel and badly heat treated.
I came across this: URL="http://gurkhakukris.com/Content/Catalog/Browse/ProductDetail.php?PID=320722549d1751cf3f247855f937b982|5d5f51"][/URL]
My wife said that I would get plenty of practise using my survival skills if I buy it because I will be sleeping outside in the kennel with the dogs. Anyone know the longrange weather forecast for this winter, it might be worth it.

wolfeye

This link might be a little easier to use.

http://www.gurkhas-kukris.com/catalog/

thermo

was given a buck 119br today, serious bit of kit.

Danpad

Please humour this question from a newbie when it comes to knives: Buying online and getting them shipped over - I have visions of opening the door to the postman and as soon as I take the parcel from him agents from the matrix will appear and ask me to go with them. Is it ok to buy them?

ShadowFox

Danpad wrote: »

Please humour this question from a newbie when it comes to knives: Buying online and getting them shipped over - I have visions of opening the door to the postman and as soon as I take the parcel from him agents from the matrix will appear and ask me to go with them. Is it ok to buy them?

Have a look at www,hennie.com ive bought from there with no problems outside the EU is subject to customs charges if it gets stopped you might have to answer some questions regarding why you want such a knife im not sure as i havent had any stopped on me so far

Deise Musashi

question from a newbie when it comes to knives: Buying online and getting them shipped over -.... Is it ok to buy them?

It's fine. Especially buying from UK/Europe as they have similar rules to us and will not sell you a banned article.

If customs want to hold your parcel or ask questions you will get a letter in the door informing you of same. It's only happened to me once, and when I explained I wanted a large golok for clearing game trails and tree stands, the package was released to me.

Heinnie Haynes and survival depot are worth a look. Mindyourfingers are supposed to be good too, but I've not dealt with them myself.

Knife center, New Graham knives, Chef knives to go and Knives ship free I have dealt with, but as US dealers you will have to watch that what you want to buy is ok to own here. No death stars or manriki... More details on Irish law can be found at http://www.irishstatutebook.ie/1991/en/si/0066.html

. It is hereby directed that section 12 of the Firearms and Offensive Weapons Act, 1990 (No. 12 of 1990), shall apply to the following descriptions of weapons:


( a ) a flick-knife, that is to say—


(i) a knife which opens when hand pressure is applied to a button, spring, lever or other device in or attached to the handle, or


(ii) a knife which has a blade which is released from the handle or sheath by the force of gravity or the application of centrifugal force and when released is locked in an open position by means of a button, spring, lever or other device;


( b ) a knuckleduster, that is to say—


(i) a band of metal or other hard material worn on one or more fingers, and designed to cause injury, or


(ii) any weapon incorporating a knuckleduster;


( c ) a swordstick or dagger cane, that is, a hollow walking-stick or cane containing a blade which may be used as a sword or dagger;


( d ) a sword umbrella, that is an umbrella containing a blade which may be used as a sword;


( e ) any weapon from which one or more sharp spikes protrude which is worn attached to the foot, ankle, hand or wrist (sometimes known when intended to be attached to the foot, as a footclaw and, when intended to be attached to the hand, as a handclaw);


( f ) the weapon sometimes known as a belt buckle knife, being a buckle which incorporates or conceals a knife;


( g ) the weapon sometimes known as a push dagger, being a knife the handle of which fits within a clenched fist and the blade of which protrudes from between two fingers;


( h ) the weapon sometimes known as a hollow kubotan, being a cylindrical container containing a number of sharp spikes;


( i ) the weapon sometimes known as a shuriken, shaken or death star, being a hard non-flexible plate having three or more sharp radiating points and designed to be thrown;


( j ) the weapon sometimes known as a balisong or butterfly knife, being a blade enclosed by its handle, which is designed to split down the middle, without the operation of a spring or other mechanical means, to reveal the blade;


( k ) the weapon sometimes known as a telescopic truncheon or telescopic billy, being a truncheon which extends automatically by hand pressure applied to a button, spring or other device in or attached to its handle;


( l ) the weapon sometimes known as a blowpipe or blow gun, being a hollow tube out of which hard pellets or darts are shot by the use of human breath;


( m ) the weapon sometimes known as a kusari gama, being a length of rope, cord, wire or chain fastened at one end to a sickle;


( n ) the weapon sometimes known as a kyoketsu shoge, being a length of rope, cord, wire or chain fastened at one end to a hooked knife;


( o ) the weapon sometimes known as a manrikigusari or kusari, being a length of rope, cord, wire or chain fastened at each end to a hard weight or hand grip;


( p ) the weapon sometimes known as a sap glove, being a glove into which metal or some other hard material has been inserted or to which metal or such material has been attached;


( q ) the broad knife known as a machete or matchet.

There can also be high shipping charges and VAT added on when buying from the US, where buying within the EU, the vat is paid in the country you bought from.

Hope that helps put your mind at ease.

lynchieboy

Does anbody own a Randal knife? it says on their website there is a 5 year waiting list! are they really that good?

Deise Musashi

There is a wait list but they can be bought from dealers, at a fair old markup.

They have a good reputation, but I'm not sure that I want a five year wait on the strength of it.

Bark River and Blackjack make versions of the Randall if you want to try that style without paying massive money for it.
Cold Steel also do a version of the classic Randall combat bowie, would be nice with a rehandle job done to replace the rubber kraton type handle.

Doc Ruby

Being honest as time goes on I'm more in favour of lower quality softer metals on the knives I use daily, rather than super hard super strong super knives for regular use. I can sharpen a cheap knife with a couple of strokes and its good for a fair while; on the other hand it takes a lot of work to make a high quality knife sharp, and loses its edge more quickly than maybe the effort is worth.

If I had a need for an extremely sharp knife quite rarely, the higher quality ones would be suitable, but I don't really.

madmaxi

Was made a gift of these by himself to start me off.

The top 1 is a hunter, 9.25" long 1095 carbon steel blade, it's got a hefty weight to it. Can't wait to try it out.

The 1 underneath is smaller than in the pic, at 3.125", it's surprisingly strong for it's size.

I'll do a test later on & review same.

Deise Musashi

I've never owned a Bear knife but they get good reviews on US sites.
They should serve you well for hunting and general cutty tasks.

Well wear.

ShadowFox

madmaxi wrote: »

Was made a gift of these by himself to start me off.

The top 1 is a hunter, 9.25" long 1095 carbon steel blade, it's got a hefty weight to it. Can't wait to try it out.

The 1 underneath is smaller than in the pic, at 3.125", it's surprisingly strong for it's size.

I'll do a test later on & review same.

Tell him you want one of these next http://heinnie.com/-Custom-Knives/Brian-Tighe-Knives/Tighe-One-On/p-104-438-6067/

The Aussie

Any thoughts on this???

Thinking about either this or getting a custom job of the same idea.



http://www.greenmanbushcraft.co.uk/cutting-tools/knives/karesuando-boar-survival-diamond-steel-knife.htm
It is currently sold out but they are getting more in.

madmaxi

grapeape wrote: »

Tell him you want one of these next http://heinnie.com/-Custom-Knives/Brian-Tighe-Knives/Tighe-One-On/p-104-438-6067/

I'll need 2, 1 for each hand.
Is that what you got mrs. grapeape for mother's day?

ShadowFox

madmaxi wrote: »

I'll need 2, 1 for each hand.
Is that what you got mrs. grapeape for mother's day?

If i did at that price it would be sealed in a display case so not even a finger print could be put on it

Deise Musashi

Karesundo, and most of the Swedish/Norwegian/Finnish knives are good value and decent steel.

I like Helle, Enzo, Kellam, Mora and Marttiini among many others.

Looks like Heinnies has the Boar Combo in stock also!

http://www.heinnie.com/Knives/Karesuando-Knives/Boar-Combo/p-92-301-6321/

hairypigeon

guys are there any mil surplus knives people would recommend, i was thinking of a ak47 bayonet cos theyre so cheap but thought id ask first

ShadowFox

hairypigeon wrote: »

guys are there any mil surplus knives people would recommend, i was thinking of a ak47 bayonet cos theyre so cheap but thought id ask first

Can you post a link to the ak47 bayonet been looking for one for a while

Deise Musashi

guys are there any mil surplus knives people would recommend, i was thinking of a ak47 bayonet cos theyre so cheap but thought id ask first

A lot of military issued knives are made so squaddies can't break them, the Wilkinson Sword for example.



Some like the Glock knife are not the best of cutters unless some work is put in thinning the edge.
I don't know about the AK47 bayonet, but it would want to be well cheap to beat a Mora, Hultafors or Cold Steel Bushman/Canadian belt knife.

It depends on what you want, if any decent knife at that price point, there are a lot of choices.
If you want a milsurp knife and that's the main requirement, get what makes you happy and we can make it cutty after

hairypigeon

hi guys looking at this one ithought at 25 quid it was pretty good
http://www.militarymart.co.uk/index.php?_a=product&product_id=511

i really want something solid full tang i looked at the ismesh survival knife but its not full tang

Gews

hairypigeon wrote: »

hi guys looking at this one ithought at 25 quid it was pretty good
http://www.militarymart.co.uk/index.php?_a=product&product_id=511

i really want something solid full tang i looked at the ismesh survival knife but its not full tang

Quick answer: no

Long answer: depends on whether you want a fighting knife or a survival knife. The two are separate concepts. Personally I would not buy any military bayonet for either purpose - they are cheap and tough but that's about it. AK bayonet's don't come with a good edge and are pretty dull... designed for... well, bayoneting people and cutting wire with the wire cutters. That goes for bayonets in general.

A good survival knife will be more like a plain old sensible bushcrafting or field knife with maybe a 4-5-inch blade, give or take. Something like these designs:




A good fighting knife is going to be long, slashy and pointy...

A good, inexpensive utility and field knife would be a Mora. You can get a Mora Robust with a slightly thicker blade from Heinnie's for £15. They also generally come extremely sharp and if you have a sharpening stone it's easy to keep them that way. Not full tang but you wouldn't break one in any sort of normal use.

There are also a lot of cheaper Condor full-tang knives.



For a big knife to chop up random objects with, I would look at a Condor Dundee http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ai47YFZxyYk it's one big knife.

davymoore

If anyone needs a knife built to their own specs let me know

Davy

eirator

I think knives should be supplied BLUNT with a note on them saying they need to be sharpened by the user to their own requirements.

I don't know about the posters here but in general even amongst otherwise genuinely practical DIYer's I don't know many I'd trust to sharpen a knife.

So what use is a superbly sharp new wonder blade if as soon as it looses its edge the user can't put an edge back on it?

The other problem is that with a sharp OOBE users often let the edge go very dull before sharpening it as they don't want to mess up a good looking new blade, another issue is that the factory used bevels aren't necessarily ideal for hand sharpening so there can be a lot work in sharpening a new blade the first time anyway. You can of course keep it sharp with regular minor work but that also takes a lot of practice which you'd get if you had to sharpen the knife when you first bought it.

In the long run I'm suggesting that users should be forced to learn good sharpening techniques and that won't happen if new knives are supplied super sharp.

By BLUNT I don't mean just a flat piece of steel with no bevel at all on it. You'd have the primary grind (bevel) leaving the user to sharpen a secondary bevel. Debatable whether you'd want to be sharpening the knife blade on a new multi-tool but certainly on a single bladed knife I think the user should take on the responsibly for putting an edge on it before use.

Don't knife shoot me its just a suggestion to see what others think.

Deise Musashi

I prefer to give people their knives as sharp as I can get them. They then have a reference point for how sharp it should be when they touch it up themselves.
A lot of knives aren't sharp out of the box, so lots of people don't know what they are aiming to achieve.
A little maintenance often prevents the need of a major (bevel resetting) sharpening for a long time.

i really want something solid full tang i looked at the ismesh survival knife but its not full tang

Scandi. knives often aren't full tang, or exposed tang at all. The cold temperatures would stick the steel to your hand! Knives like the Fallknivens above are a perfect example. Mora use a stub tang, but in normal use you won't break it. Lots of traditional choppers also don't use a full tang, Goloks, parangs and Khukris for example. It reduces the shock transmitted to the user's hand.

There is something solid looking about the full tang though, have a look at TOPS knives and Busse! I have a TOPS Pathfinder school knife and I like it a lot, nice size and a good sheath system. ESEE Izula is similar but a lot smaller.

The venerable KaBar is a stick tang and they take dogs abuse!

I have horribly abused cheaper knives like Opinel and Mora's, ruined an Opinel heating it in a fire to cut hole for rowlocks in a hard plastic gunwale and snapped the tip of a mora prying with it. Any knife heavier than those is going to take a lot of abuse.

I am thinking of getting a Bahco chisel knife in the hardware just for abusive use, sure my wife won't mind just one more knife...:eek:

If anyone needs a knife built to their own specs let me know

Davy

If you need something made to your own design, spec. every option down to handle materials, liners and fasteners, you could do worse than to commission a custom built personal knife.

davymoore

During the American Civil war it was common practice to supply blunt swords to the cavalry officers. It gave the officer the option of leaving it blank for ceremonial purposes or sharpening it for battle conditions.

With the advances in steel production nowadays it is possible to make a knife that will hold an edge for a long time. Or produce knives that sharpen easily but dull quickly. I think that if the user took time to study the steels' properties when deciding if it is "Fit For Purpose" to begin with, then he/she will suffer far less frustration when the knife doesn't perform as expected.

johnreck

Thing is with a knife you can get a cheap one and just use it as a beater knife.
but i think you should always have a high quality knife. something that will last a life time.
of course im biased as i make them. mostly for myself and for friends.
hear are two that i have and use, they are razor sharp and hold there edge.
made from professionally tempered D2 steel.
first one is my companion knife. whenever im out in the fields and woods this is always on my belt.



second one is my larger knife very useful around the camp.



finally the belt i use when im out in the wilds.
its full grain leather and can be use for more than just holding up my trousers.
found it almost impossible to find a decent real leather belt so went back to making my own.

johnreck

eirator wrote: »

I think knives should be supplied BLUNT with a note on them saying they need to be sharpened by the user to their own requirements.

I don't know about the posters here but in general even amongst otherwise genuinely practical DIYer's I don't know many I'd trust to sharpen a knife.

So what use is a superbly sharp new wonder blade if as soon as it looses its edge the user can't put an edge back on it?

The other problem is that with a sharp OOBE users often let the edge go very dull before sharpening it as they don't want to mess up a good looking new blade, another issue is that the factory used bevels aren't necessarily ideal for hand sharpening so there can be a lot work in sharpening a new blade the first time anyway. You can of course keep it sharp with regular minor work but that also takes a lot of practice which you'd get if you had to sharpen the knife when you first bought it.

In the long run I'm suggesting that users should be forced to learn good sharpening techniques and that won't happen if new knives are supplied super sharp.

By BLUNT I don't mean just a flat piece of steel with no bevel at all on it. You'd have the primary grind (bevel) leaving the user to sharpen a secondary bevel. Debatable whether you'd want to be sharpening the knife blade on a new multi-tool but certainly on a single bladed knife I think the user should take on the responsibly for putting an edge on it before use.

Don't knife shoot me its just a suggestion to see what others think.

think im gonna disagree with you on this point.. personally i think if you are making or supplying a knife for a user it should come razor sharp. whether or not the person getting it decides to keep it sharp is up to them. i would of course agree that we should all try to develop our knife and tool sharpening skills seems to have become a lost art and hand sharpening really isnt that hard, just takes a little practice.

thehippychippy

johnreck wrote: »

think im gonna disagree with you on this point.. personally i think if you are making or supplying a knife for a user it should come razor sharp. whether or not the person getting it decides to keep it sharp is up to them. i would of course agree that we should all try to develop our knife and tool sharpening skills seems to have become a lost art and hand sharpening really isnt that hard, just takes a little practice.

Just as a matter of interest, and because I really like knives, how much would the smaller one cost?

dipti

Decent knife will not always cover the small pocket knives but sometimes medium sized blade like gurkha kukris are best to own. I know you cant carry them in your pockets but trust me they have so many other important advantages that it will cover one this negative one of it.

lostboy75

that is a ridiculously good looking knife. not exactly to my taste, but beautiful/
I will be posting here later on this evening, currently mulling over my choice of Christmas present on heinnie.
it has always been in my head to try making one, but would not know where to start?
two knife makers posted, so guys how did you start with this. what advice could you give.
where did you learn the craft?

Tabnabs

dipti wrote: »

Decent knife will not always cover the small pocket knives but sometimes medium sized blade like gurkha kukris are best to own. I know you cant carry them in your pockets but trust me they have so many other important advantages that it will cover one this negative one of it.

[mod] Just to confirm, a kukris may be a great knife/tool, but is illegal to own in Ireland. [/mod]

Savage93

ShadowFox wrote: »

Can you post a link to the ak47 bayonet been looking for one for a while

http://www.zib-militaria.de/epages/61431412.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61431412/Products/120003:D:D:D:D

ShadowFox

Might give some ideas http://www.artofmanliness.com/2011/11/29/how-to-choose-the-perfect-survival-knife/

corner of hells

I bought an AK bayonet a few years ago online from militaria site , unless you physically hold and see the knife I wouldn't buy it.
Without doubt I got an original knife , but there were and are so many countries manufacturing them the quality of standard and finish varies incredibly.
There are whole sites dedicated to the collection and its possible to see the many variations,
From various eastern bloc countries and Arab countries the list is endless.
East German ones seem well finished with some of the Arab countries ones very poorly finished.In fact Egyptian ones would be more suited to beating someone to death with.

I