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Repairing stone chips from car bonnet.

  • 25-09-2012 8:07pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,327 ✭✭✭


    Evening all.

    The bonnet of the car is riddled with stone- chips, and can't afford a re-spray. It's the only part of the paintwork that lets the car down.

    Any ideas on removing them?

    I'm thinking getting touch up paint, and slowly filling the chips by building up the layers, then going over it with the D/A, then applying the lacquer, and going over it with the D/A again.

    I'll obviously use a safe solvent before applying the lacquer to remove any traces of compound.

    Anybody got any tips or suggestions?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Thats pretty much the way to do it!

    Though I wouldnt apply lacquer on after. I'd build them up slowly, wet sand them back and then machine polish them to blend them as best as possible. Give them plenty of time to dry. Even after that you'll find that the paint is alot softer and you might end up spreading / smudging the paint when machine polishing - can be a bit of a pain, but usually can polish them well.
    Lots of patience needed - before and after pics when you're done! Good luck! :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,327 ✭✭✭Chuck_Norris


    Curran wrote: »
    Thats pretty much the way to do it!

    Though I wouldnt apply lacquer on after. I'd build them up slowly, wet sand them back and then machine polish them to blend them as best as possible. Give them plenty of time to dry. Even after that you'll find that the paint is alot softer and you might end up spreading / smudging the paint when machine polishing - can be a bit of a pain, but usually can polish them well.
    Lots of patience needed - before and after pics when you're done! Good luck! :)

    Cheers man. I know curing time would depend on weather conditions, but would overnight be alright? What grade paper would you use? And finally, why no lacquer? I will of course be applying several coats of wax afterwards for protection, but would've thought the lacquer would add some extra protection.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Id give it at least a week to cure! After a normal spray job its recommended you wait 6 weeks before touching it with anything; protection, polish, etc.

    1500 grit minimum, 2000 or 3000 if you can get your hands on it - it will make it easier to polish out - 1500 is quite agressive, and will take a few passes on a DA to correct.

    The majority of the chip repair kits contain lacquer in the mix - its an all in one type process.

    PS: Im told that the Chipex touch up kits are extremely good - paint, blending solution and polish is included. Same person that recommended the Chipex, also used Dr. Colorchips and said the Chipex is a much better system


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,572 ✭✭✭msg11


    Have you priced how much it would cost to just respray the bonnet ?

    You could get it done as a nixer off someone, join a few of the car sites Irishmoc.org and make a post see if anyone's willing. About 150/200 I would say for a respray on the bonnet.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,327 ✭✭✭Chuck_Norris


    msg11 wrote: »
    Have you priced how much it would cost to just respray the bonnet ?

    You could get it done as a nixer off someone, join a few of the car sites Irishmoc.org and make a post see if anyone's willing. About 150/200 I would say for a respray on the bonnet.

    Haven't priced it to be honest, but would've thought quite a bit more for it to be done properly. I mean, have to blend it into the wings and all would be pricey.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,327 ✭✭✭Chuck_Norris


    Curran wrote: »
    Id give it at least a week to cure! After a normal spray job its recommended you wait 6 weeks before touching it with anything; protection, polish, etc.

    1500 grit minimum, 2000 or 3000 if you can get your hands on it - it will make it easier to polish out - 1500 is quite agressive, and will take a few passes on a DA to correct.

    The majority of the chip repair kits contain lacquer in the mix - its an all in one type process.

    PS: Im told that the Chipex touch up kits are extremely good - paint, blending solution and polish is included. Same person that recommended the Chipex, also used Dr. Colorchips and said the Chipex is a much better system

    Nice one man. Cheers for the tip on the chippex. I may try one or two spots just to see how I get on. Probably not the best time of year to be at this kinda stuff. PITA though, cos I've a few weeks off before I start a new job.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,327 ✭✭✭Chuck_Norris


    Last questions Curran.

    Would you allow a week curing time between applying layers, or a week(ish) total?

    What so you think would be the best way of applying it?

    And lastly, the polish/ pad mix that was part of the group buy here: sufficient, or invest in others?

    Sorry for melting your brain. Just don't want to make a balls of it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,930 ✭✭✭✭challengemaster


    Usually the best thing for applying to small areas like stone chips is with wooden toothpicks. Avoid ear buds, or anything that could leave something embedded in the new paint.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,327 ✭✭✭Chuck_Norris


    Usually the best thing for applying to small areas like stone chips is with wooden toothpicks. Avoid ear buds, or anything that could leave something embedded in the new paint.

    Cheers cm. I can remember my auld lad paring down a match to do it years ago. Never though of a tooth pick!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Sorry, missed your reply the last time.

    A few hours between layers, probably best 8 hours apart. Two layers a day, morning and evening. Then a week minimum before sanding and polishing.

    Always best to work from the least aggressive pad and polish combo up to the one that does the job. Will very much depend on the grit if sand paper you can get your hands on. If 3000 grit, two our three passes with a finishing polish and pad "may"do the job!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,327 ✭✭✭Chuck_Norris


    Curran wrote: »
    Sorry, missed your reply the last time.

    A few hours between layers, probably best 8 hours apart. Two layers a day, morning and evening. Then a week minimum before sanding and polishing.

    Always best to work from the least aggressive pad and polish combo up to the one that does the job. Will very much depend on the grit if sand paper you can get your hands on. If 3000 grit, two our three passes with a finishing polish and pad "may"do the job!

    No worries at all man. I only posted it earlier today.

    Appreciate all the advice. And I'll do some before and after pics.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,331 ✭✭✭kdevitt


    I used Dr Colorchips - same story as Chipex. Did a great job, looked a lot better afterwards. You get enough to retreat it as necessary - and its very quick and painless to do.

    Heres my post on before/after results - http://www.performancecar.ie/Forum/showthread.php?19-Dr-Colorchips-application


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