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Ford Focus Won't start (no response whatsoever to turning key).

  • 25-09-2012 3:35pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,810 ✭✭✭


    I have a Focus Connection (1.6 petrol) and tried to enter it using the usual keyless entry fob and the door didn't respond when I pulled the handle. Had to use the normal key to open the car, tried to start it up and absolutely nothing happened, no lights on dash, no clicking or response of any kind when turning the key. Tried to jump it and no response there either. I'm just wondering if this is a result of a dead battery or maybe something else. Any suggestions would be great as its just sitting there now and I have no clue what to do to get it going. I'm aware I could ring a a garage and get it picked up but being unemployed and pretty poor right now I'd really rather avoid the cost.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 853 ✭✭✭Seanieke


    Just make sure the connections on the battery are good and tight, it's unusual for ALL electrics to just pack up. When you go to jump it leave the "jump" vehicle running and connected for at least 5 minutes before you try turning her over.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 659 ✭✭✭Katunga


    If above fails maybe the starter.

    EDIT: sorry didn't read all the post. I agree with above.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,164 ✭✭✭hobochris


    If all electrics are not working, it is likely a dead battery.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,810 ✭✭✭skerry


    Seanieke wrote: »
    Just make sure the connections on the battery are good and tight, it's unusual for ALL electrics to just pack up. When you go to jump it leave the "jump" vehicle running and connected for at least 5 minutes before you try turning her over.

    Thats what I thought. Last time it wouldn't start the electrics were still working. I left it connected to the 'jump vehicle' for about 15 minutes and still no joy. If the battery is absolutely dead is there any chance of jumping or will I have to contact a garage. Apologies, first car and knowledge is limited.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 853 ✭✭✭Seanieke


    Even if the battery is TOTALLY flat you should get something on the dash at least once your connected to the jump car.. or an interior light, something small that doesn't draw much power.

    IF you can do without the car over night and have / can borrow a charger, give it a nights charge and see how it is in the morning... other option a push start, sit in the car with it in first/second gear and the ignition turned to the position it would be when the car is running, with your FOOT DOWN FULLY ON THE CLUTCH get some mates to push you, when your moving at a decent speed (for being pushed) let your foot off the clutch and it should bunny hop into life. Then leave it running for a bit.

    And you dont have to bring it to a garage to get a new battery or pay fitting costs if your in any way handy. It's an easy job, just take note of the height and width of the battery and the height to the top of the terminals also the layout of the terminals when ordering.

    Hope you find some help in there somewhere!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,810 ✭✭✭skerry


    Seanieke wrote: »
    Even if the battery is TOTALLY flat you should get something on the dash at least once your connected to the jump car.. or an interior light, something small that doesn't draw much power.

    IF you can do without the car over night and have / can borrow a charger, give it a nights charge and see how it is in the morning... other option a push start, sit in the car with it in first/second gear and the ignition turned to the position it would be when the car is running, with your FOOT DOWN FULLY ON THE CLUTCH get some mates to push you, when your moving at a decent speed (for being pushed) let your foot off the clutch and it should bunny hop into life. Then leave it running for a bit.

    And you dont have to bring it to a garage to get a new battery or pay fitting costs if your in any way handy. It's an easy job, just take note of the height and width of the battery and the height to the top of the terminals also the layout of the terminals when ordering.

    Hope you find some help in there somewhere!

    Thanks for that, I'm hoping to chance getting a push start once I can recruit some help. Don't think I know anyone with a charger. Failing those options I'll try get my hands on a new battery tomorrow and see what happens there. It stalled a couple of weeks ago too when I was driving, think I was in second and noticed the steering was unresponsive. It's due a service so must get it dropped in during the week, if I can get it down there. Pain in the a$$ as I've just thrown the bones of a grand into tax and insurance and am broke from the feckin' thing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 853 ✭✭✭Seanieke


    Steering and battery.. just make sure your fanbelt/serpentine belt is ok.. because that would be the only connection between your altenator (which charges the battery) and the power steering pump (which does the power steering)

    Hopefully we'll get ya right on the cheap or even better free!! If ya do get it going on the push later try if possible to park it facing down a slope when your done... Just in case!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,810 ✭✭✭skerry


    Seanieke wrote: »
    Steering and battery.. just make sure your fanbelt/serpentine belt is ok.. because that would be the only connection between your altenator (which charges the battery) and the power steering pump (which does the power steering)

    Hopefully we'll get ya right on the cheap or even better free!! If ya do get it going on the push later try if possible to park it facing down a slope when your done... Just in case!!

    Thanks for all the help Seanieke, hopefully have some joy from the push, will update if I do. I think the steering is electronically assisted power steering so if the battery was the cause of the car somehow cutting out while on the move would that not be effect the steering (purely speculation here on my behalf here BTW)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 890 ✭✭✭lifer_sean


    Doesn't the Focus connection have the keyless entry / keyless start ? So you won't be able to push start it if there isn't enough power in the battery to deactivate the steering lock etc.

    With the jump leads on you should have some electrical power in the car ? Are the jump leads damaged by any chance ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 853 ✭✭✭Seanieke


    skerry wrote: »
    Thanks for all the help Seanieke, hopefully have some joy from the push, will update if I do. I think the steering is electronically assisted power steering so if the battery was the cause of the car somehow cutting out while on the move would that not be effect the steering (purely speculation here on my behalf here BTW)

    Ya bet me to it lol that could be another sign alright the battery is on the way out. But mention it to your garage when you get it serviced next, to check the belt and that your altenator is charging (you should get 14.4 volts when you put a multimeter across the battery when it's running.)


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 82 ✭✭aman23


    if the battery is ok. i reckon your cars immobilizer isn't recognizing the key! if you have another key that has worked in the past, try using it instead.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,810 ✭✭✭skerry


    lifer_sean wrote: »
    Doesn't the Focus connection have the keyless entry / keyless start ? So you won't be able to push start it if there isn't enough power in the battery to deactivate the steering lock etc.

    With the jump leads on you should have some electrical power in the car ? Are the jump leads damaged by any chance ?

    It has key-less start and entry, but there is a normal key inside the fob that if that fails, you attach it to the fob and you can start the car normally if need be. Tried that and absolutely no noise or lights coming from the car.

    Don't have a second set of jump leads to check if the original ones are faulty. Used the car last Saturday, could the battery completely die in that time, I'd have thought there would be some power in the car, enough for small light on dash etc, but nothing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,113 ✭✭✭Gavman84


    I'm having issue with my car too. Was making a clicking noise after work today and won't start. I had to jump it and when driving the speedo and clocks were dying as I drove and went blank. I was stopped at one stage and tried to open window it conked out and had to be jumped again. Thinking its alternator?? Anyone know a good mechanic in Waterford as I don't know any prob need to tow car there and haven't option to try few as it needs jumping every time I turn it off.
    Gav


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,953 ✭✭✭aujopimur


    Be careful usiing jump leads on a focus, I've read of expensive damage on some of the models. Read the manual first.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,810 ✭✭✭skerry


    aujopimur wrote: »
    Be careful usiing jump leads on a focus, I've read of expensive damage on some of the models. Read the manual first.

    I read the manual first. It say to put the negative clamp onto a grounding bolt. Would've stuck it on the battery if I hadn't checked. Is that the norm or does it differ with different makes of car.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,953 ✭✭✭aujopimur


    skerry wrote: »
    I read the manual first. It say to put the negative clamp onto a grounding bolt. Would've stuck it on the battery if I hadn't checked. Is that the norm or does it differ with different makes of car.
    You did the right thing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,113 ✭✭✭Gavman84


    does anyone know if a 2003 focus tdci has a smart alternator or normal one and what's the price i should be looking at?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 17,733 ✭✭✭✭corktina


    skerry wrote: »
    I read the manual first. It say to put the negative clamp onto a grounding bolt. Would've stuck it on the battery if I hadn't checked. Is that the norm or does it differ with different makes of car.

    yeah thats the proper way to do it. There is a risk of gases from the battery exploding if a spark was to hit them. By putting the earth lead elsewhere, it lessens this risk. I and I suspect most people stick it on the negative pole cos we're too lazy and stupid to do otherwise :-)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,810 ✭✭✭skerry


    Seanieke wrote: »
    Ya bet me to it lol that could be another sign alright the battery is on the way out. But mention it to your garage when you get it serviced next, to check the belt and that your altenator is charging (you should get 14.4 volts when you put a multimeter across the battery when it's running.)

    Rang my local garage and he said as I was fully comp I should ring my insurance company and they should send someone out to have a look FOC. Rang them and they sent someone out with a tow truck, but he had a battery charger with him and that got it going. Currently in the garage getting it's overdue service and getting battery checked. Thankfully it was only a battery thing and nothing more serious/ expensive or I'd be doing a lot more walking for the foreseeable future. Thanks for all the advice.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,113 ✭✭✭Gavman84


    I had the alternator refurbished on my car today and back in business thankfully. The noise coming from car was alternator all along not water pump it seems. Missed the car even tho was only 2 days without it.


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