How would you insulate this?

rockatansky

Hi all

I moved into a new house a couple of months ago and with the onset of the cold winter days I am slightly concerned at the level of insulation (or lack of any in this case) in the house.

The garage has been converted into a room and I have noticed that although it has a radiator in it, it is noticeably a lot colder in here than other rooms in the house.

There is a double glazed window at the front side of the room and a patio door (double glazed also) to the rear of the room.


This is the roof of the room in question:







And this is the ceiling, wooden with spotlights (5 lights in different locations).






I removed the spotlight and found that there was plaster board above the wooden ceiling:





I was expecting to find some form of insulation above the plaster board however I took the following photo of what there is:




So my questions:

(1) Is it normal not to have insulation in a conversion like this? I’m new to all this but I would have expected to me some insulation at least?

(2) If I was to insulate this space this what type of insulation would be best for this? I guessing that as I have no access to this space other than removing the spot lights I have very limited options.

I am looking to do the insulation myself if possible in order to keep costs as low as possible.


Thanks.

wayoutwest

Hi rockatanski The plasterboard is there as a fire retardent

1] No - its not normal to omit insulation in the roof.The k***heads that put up the ceiing should have done it

2] To avoid taking it all down and starting again - you could cut a small hatch,and send a small person up to lay rockwool etc.,between and then over the ceiling joists.[Don't have the insulation touching the backs of the lights-you can buy proper housing/covers for them ]

P.S - If you made the hatch in the corner of the room,then there would be less noticeable damage,when replacing the boards you have cut [ie:one set of cuts rather than two].

paddy147

Why ommit insulation for that roof/ceiling void is beyond me??:eek:

Wayoutwest is right to suggest cutting out an access hole and sending a slim-ish person to install Rockwool slab insulation and/or Knauf 170-200mm insulation too.


Change the downlights to LED GU10s (Philips Master 4w LEDs) and fit downlight hoods aswell.

Keep all electrical wiring and any alarm and co-ax cables ontop of the insulation.



A few pics of what to do...(hope this helps).:)

wayoutwest

Paddy - what is the Cabon Zero insulation like on price,insulatory value and handling....compared with Rockwall ?

Rockatansky - If you go outside and look up under your soffit [along the long length], you should see strip [or circular] vents-these are letting airflow into roof void. When laying - keep the insulation from blocking this airflow [as it travels up in between the rafters].

paddy147

wayoutwest wrote: »

Paddy - what is the Cabon Zero insulation like on price,insulatory value and handling....compared with Rockwall ?

Rockatansky - If you go outside and look up under your soffit [along the long length], you should see strip [or circular] vents-these are letting airflow into roof void. When laying - keep the insulation from blocking this airflow [as it travels up in between the rafters].

I got a large van load of the Knauf (150 and 170mm) from the UK for 3 euro 50 cents a roll.

Its easy to use and work with and its not really itchy at all (thank god).

The Rockwool 4 inch slab is very handy aswell,just measure to size and use a garden shears to cut it to the desired shape and size,and just slot it into place.

Simples.

Villaines

Surely it's normal not to insulate above the gu10s? Have you checked that the insulation is not just missing from there?

Certainly leds do not get as hot but those old high voltage down lighters would burn the hand off you.
J
Just saw pic now - Jaysis.

wayoutwest

I hate coming across these type of piss-taking 'ommitances'......Like when I discovered that my hob extractor was vented straight up and into my attic, rather than to the outside [=attic smelling like the back of a chipper + un-imaginable fire risk!].

paddy147

You could also spray foram the ceiling void/attic space with Bio-Foam 800 open cell..

I had this done with both attic spaces in my house.

Might be a bit of overkill,but sure fcuk it anyway.:)


Whatever you do,you are going to have to cut out an access hole/hatch in the ceiling to gain access to that roof space.

Also the longer you leave it,the more heat you will use and the more your energy bills will be to heat that room and keep it warm.

Act now before winter arrives.;)

Villaines

wayoutwest wrote: »

I hate coming across these type of piss-taking 'ommitances'......Like when I discovered that my hob extractor was vented straight up and into my attic, rather than to the outside [=attic smelling like the back of a chipper + un-imaginable fire risk!].

Like, in my recently purchased house, the soil vent pipe that only goes as far as my attic, the outer leaf external brick vent with no internal hole and the cold water storage tank overflow pipe that only makes it as far as the inside of the soffit!

By the way, did toilet cistern overflow pipes just get ignored in the Celtic tiger! Surely they once were considered necessary, lol.

wayoutwest

Wow Paddy - it looks like the inside of an igloo up in your attic......no problems with your tank freezing then?!,,,, How much per m2 does it cost ? Is air still able to enter and then leave, via your attic space somehow?

paddy147

wayoutwest wrote: »

Wow Paddy - it looks like the inside of an igloo up in your attic......no problems with your tank freezing then?!,,,, How much per m2 does it cost ? Is air still able to enter and then leave, via your attic space somehow?

Air gap in the roof (vent cards) and the bio foam is open cell and lets air flow through it.

Its not waterproof,but its not designed to be waterproof.

No problems with tanks.:)

I "think" it was about 20-22 euro a square meter,when I got it done,but its probably cheaper now with the way the economy is nowadays.