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My W123, don't know what to do with her.

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  • 20-09-2012 3:31pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,339 ✭✭✭


    Keep it or sell it? :-P

    I've put it up for sale but i'm in two minds. They seem to be asking nice money if they are restored but I don't know the first thing about restoration. Would the likes of the rusty arches be something a complete novice could take on?

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,475 ✭✭✭2cv


    192,000 miles... she's barely run in so ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,475 ✭✭✭2cv


    btw... rusty arches is not necessarily a problem, only costs a couple of hundred to get fixed properly...


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,339 ✭✭✭brembo26


    Wonder would it be worth it though, if I was to keep it I would like to try and do the bits myself but I dont want to ruin it either :pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,475 ✭✭✭2cv


    brembo26 wrote: »
    Wonder would it be worth it though, if I was to keep it I would like to try and do the bits myself but I dont want to ruin it either :pac:

    a W123 is ALWAYS worth keeping, no matter what condition it's in... and you're better off spending a little bit of money on it to get the work done right...


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,339 ✭✭✭brembo26


    What's that "paint" called again that stops rust? Don't have a shed for it so its going to be outside a lot and wouldn't like the arches to get any worse.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,499 ✭✭✭Capri


    Rusty arches - first thing I'd do is a screwdriver inside to scoop out mud - then a garden hose with spray piece to flush out any mud left, that would mean the arches wouldn't be the moisture trap they'd be with he mud in place !

    African chap bought a D21 off me the other day, first thing he did was spray WD40 on all the rust patches - might be an idea.

    Like the 280E W123, big six in a small body. Another few months and it'll be cheap VinVet tax so I'd keep it and just tip around.

    Vinny Byrne http://www.vinnybyrne.com/ would do touch up spray can for you to keep the arches fresh, unscrew the petrol flap and bring with you for paint match. I'd say it's Astralsilber 735 or , less like Silberdistel 883, you might even get it off the shelf in your local motor parts store ;)
    Paint Codes For Mercedes Benz
    A typical Mercedes Benz paint color code is 3 digits long and contains numbers only. Older codes may have a prefix of DB followed by a three digit number such as DB-723. Check the #1 driver side door jamb, #2 the radiator crossover or support bar, and also in the #3 engine compartment adhered to the underside of the hood. For a list of touch up paint colors for your Mercedes Benz go here: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/choosecolor/year.aspx?make=Mercd Benz.


  • Registered Users Posts: 495 ✭✭Hifive


    brembo26 wrote: »
    What's that "paint" called again that stops rust? Don't have a shed for it so its going to be outside a lot and wouldn't like the arches to get any worse.

    This one maybe?
    http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_188249_langId_-1_categoryId_212430#tab3

    I used this on my last car and it seems to work well. Grind out the loose stuff with a drill powered wire brush, then paint this stuff on. when it dries I then paint on a coat of a galvanic paint called Galvafroid, then rattle can primer followed by the top coats.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,808 ✭✭✭Stained Class


    OP. It depends on your circumstances.

    If you're single & like the car, go for it!

    If you got family & bills to pay, get rid of it pronto.

    Old Mercs are great cars, but if the Metal Weevil gets hold, things can get expensively nasty very quickly.

    Especially if your'e dealing with metallic paint. Localised resprays usually show up big time.

    Quite simply, the market for classic cars has fallen thru the floor in recent times.

    If you want to keep the car & use it, fair enough.

    To do it up & sell on for a profit, forget it.

    Maybe, put it up cheap & hope for the best.


  • Registered Users Posts: 380 ✭✭mattroche


    Having seen the close up photos which you sent me, fo which I thank you, I would think the car is past restoration, unless you were prepared to spend at least E2000 + to restore it to a fairly decent standard. There seems to be serious rust issues allround, which I think will be hard to cure, plus the upolstery, sliding roof, exaust, bumpers wheel trims, ect. If you could get another one with a reasonable good body, and use yours as a doner car may be your best option.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,339 ✭✭✭brembo26


    mattroche wrote: »
    Having seen the close up photos which you sent me, fo which I thank you, I would think the car is past restoration, unless you were prepared to spend at least E2000 + to restore it to a fairly decent standard. There seems to be serious rust issues allround, which I think will be hard to cure, plus the exaust, wheel trims, ect. If you could get another one with a reasonable good body, and use yours as a doner car may be your best option.

    upholstery, sliding roof, bumpers are all sound, If you seen the car in the flesh you would quickly realise the rust isnt as bad as your saying in fairness :p


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  • Posts: 23,339 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    brembo26 wrote: »
    Wonder would it be worth it though, if I was to keep it I would like to try and do the bits myself but I dont want to ruin it either :pac:

    Not worth attempting the arches yourself really tbh unless you're unusually skilled which would be unlikely :)
    brembo26 wrote: »
    What's that "paint" called again that stops rust? Don't have a shed for it so its going to be outside a lot and wouldn't like the arches to get any worse.

    Clean them as suggested and put Kurust on them, will look fairly crap admittedly.
    Try a small bit of arch first.


  • Registered Users Posts: 380 ✭✭mattroche


    It was an opinion I formed by looking at the enlarged photos. However, if u decide to go ahead with doing it up, look at a company in the U.K. for new panels, which I think would be much better then fillers, ect. There prices are what I would consider quite good. car z 2.co.uk. Ph. No. 00441684565882. The man I got the white limo from had the rear arches done on that, he said they cost around £30 each. I hope may be of help to you. Best of luck anyway, whatever you decide on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,830 ✭✭✭shawnee


    Buying the bits for restoration is not really that expensive, however getting someone to put them together and do a decent job is very expensive. At a glance and having already restored one I would agree with Matt's view. Best of Luck in whatever you do:D


  • Registered Users Posts: 39 allana13


    I would Love to buy a 300 Diesel 123 series very rare now ...


  • Registered Users Posts: 380 ✭✭mattroche


    There is a 1981 300D for sale in Swansea. Its L.H.D. £3995 ( E5000 approx) It is on E Bay.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,061 ✭✭✭Kenny Logins


    One on Donedeal in Armagh, €4000.

    http://cars.donedeal.ie/for-sale/vintagecars/3492552

    One in Cork for €3k (although tax over next few years makes it a more expensive option).

    http://cars.donedeal.ie/for-sale/vintagecars/3885884


  • Registered Users Posts: 39 allana13


    Thanks Guys saw the One on Flea Bay... Dont really want a LHD....

    There is a Estate too which i would always prefer buts for 6K

    Its a TD which is better though.... With a Auto i should add :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,487 ✭✭✭Seweryn


    allana13 wrote: »
    ... Dont really want a LHD....

    There is a Estate too which i would always prefer buts for 6K

    Its a TD which is better though...
    What do you mean by saying a TD is better?
    Every single Diesel engined 123-series estate is a TD.


  • Registered Users Posts: 39 allana13


    Seweryn wrote: »
    What do you mean by saying a TD is better?
    Every single Diesel engined 123-series estate is a TD.


    Ah ok... I thought they all were not td's ...

    Only some of them came in a TD model


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,061 ✭✭✭Kenny Logins


    T means estate and D means diesel. Are you thinking TD as in Turbo Diesel?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,487 ✭✭✭Seweryn


    allana13 wrote: »
    Ah ok... I thought they all were not td's ...

    Only some of them came in a TD model
    I still do not know what you mean by "TD". Transporter Diesel is a shape of the bodywork with a Diesel engine, so all Estates are TD or T/TE/TDT models.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,308 ✭✭✭w124man


    Seweryn wrote: »
    I still do not know what you mean by "TD". Transporter Diesel is a shape of the bodywork with a Diesel engine, so all Estates are TD or T/TE/TDT models.

    Correct!

    I recently had the pleasure of driving a LHD 1982 Turbo Diesel saloon whilst on holiday in France. It really brought home to me how good modern turbo diesels are these days as this thing had a very narrow powerband. Even though it had almost half a million kilometres up it would cruise all day at 120kph and return (Im told) 8lts/100kms or 35 to the gallon. This car also reminded me of why I love Mercedes Benz's


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,487 ✭✭✭Seweryn


    w124man wrote: »
    Correct!

    I recently had the pleasure of driving a LHD 1982 Turbo Diesel saloon whilst on holiday in France. It really brought home to me how good modern turbo diesels are these days as this thing had a very narrow powerband. Even though it had almost half a million kilometres up it would cruise all day at 120kph and return (Im told) 8lts/100kms or 35 to the gallon. This car also reminded me of why I love Mercedes Benz's
    Another thing in comparison to modern Diesels is the simplicity, reliability and service / repair costs. Yes, modern units are more powerful, more refined, more torquey, usually quieter and use less fuel. But when it comes to the overall running cost, the old Diesel still wins, especially if it was made by Mercedes-Benz. These engines are extremely reliable and if anything needs to be done, it won't break the bank.


  • Registered Users Posts: 39 allana13


    Wish it was a 300 Diesel mate

    Would have bought it off you


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,339 ✭✭✭brembo26


    allana13 wrote: »
    Wish it was a 300 Diesel mate

    Would have bought it off you

    Ah but the 185bhp 2.8 is much better :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 3 Nekyggub


    The vin plate situated on top/in front of your radiator will have your colour code. It will be the three digit number on its own, maybe slightly to the right of other numbers with a letter beside it. Eg, 737 G. If the car has been resprayed, left in the open, etc etc then your new paint is not going to match, or unlikely to. As I am mainly concerned with having my 123 looking respectable as opposed to having a show concourse model I made up a mixture of metal paint. In this case I used RUSTOLEIUM, COMBICOLOUR paint. My car is slightly off white,I mixed some COMBICOLOUR White with a drop of COMBICOLOUR cream until I got as near as possible to my white. I used this mixture to hand paint parts of the car which will never be see by the human eye, eg under the bumpers,engine bay, under the hood and so on. Where the paint is seen I will got to my local auto factor with the code and get the proper stuff. A small touch up can and a spray will cost about €30......or I could save € 10000 to have a proper job!


  • Registered Users Posts: 287 ✭✭winnie the schtink


    id say it's well rotten now 4 years later:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 99 ✭✭pmg007


    Bring it on the w123 run to Dingle on the 24th and you will change your mind about selling it :cool: It would cost between 350 and 500 to repair the arches depending on how bad they are. There are inner and outer panels. there is always more rust than you expect and with any old car when you start poking around more rust/holes etc will be found.


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