puncture repairs

Henlars67

Has anyone else noticed that the patches in puncture repair kits lately don't stick properly or lift when the tyre is pumped?

And yes I do know how to fix a puncture correctly before anyone says I'm not doing it right.

Tonyandthewhale

What kit are you using? Lidle patches are shite because they're too thick to work on mountain bike tyres. I use patches from centra or basically anything else and I haven't run into problems.

Wishbone Ash

Henlars67 wrote: »

lift when the tyre is pumped

Apart from a little air to give the tube shape before replacing it in the tyre, how do you know it's lifting when pumped up?

It's a lot handier (and possibly cheaper) to buy a ten-pack of tubes and simply replace the tube instead of repairing it.

EDIT: Is you glue out of date?

monument

Henlars67 wrote: »

Has anyone else noticed that the patches in puncture repair kits lately don't stick properly or lift when the tyre is pumped?

And yes I do know how to fix a puncture correctly before anyone says I'm not doing it right.

The other day I tried self-fixing my first one in years -- I'll put it now working down to this and not my rustyness.

doozerie

Henlars67 wrote: »

Has anyone else noticed that the patches in puncture repair kits lately don't stick properly or lift when the tyre is pumped?

And yes I do know how to fix a puncture correctly before anyone says I'm not doing it right.

If the patches are not sticking then the only conclusion to draw is that either the patches and/or glue are rubbish, or you are not doing it properly. Despite fixing punctures not being rocket science, there are various approaches to doing it, it's not that there is only one method that is correct, which means there are a variety of ways in which it can go wrong.

I can only speak for myself obviously but when I've had patches lift it has been because I made a mess of attaching them - either I didn't roughen the tube adequately (or over a large enough area), or I applied the patch while the glue was still wet (I always aim to apply the patch after the glue has dried). I haven't found any patches that have been particularly bad, though the relatively thick vulcanising patches require more care and attention I've found.

tomasrojo

I found cutting bigger patches in half helped (a tip from someone here; can't remember who). I never have had a problem with the smaller patches, but some makes of vulcanising solution haven't worked for me, and they all seem to be unusable about a year after first opening the tube.

piston

Rema Tip Top are the best you can buy imo, but it's important to follow the procedure properly no matter what you are using.

Roughen tube with sandpaper, apply rubber solution evenly and allow to dry completely. Apply patch and rub it from the centre outwards to ensure it's stuck down and any air is worked out.

NeedMoreGears

I've been using cure-c-cure patches for years - never had a problem unless I rushed it and made a mess of it

Mcofferon

Sorry - Semi Hijacking this one

I've recently patched a tube with a 622-23 tyre (Conti Ultra road) using a Park tools kit. Had no problems with the Patch sticking and the tube holds preasure (110 psi) but now the tyre is noticable deformed (swollen slightly) around the site of the repair. Is this normal?

The tyre itself is perforated though by the glass that caused the puncture so I'd say its on borrowed time, which is a shame as its only a month or so old.

Anyway, the Park patch and rubber solution seemed to work without a problem. Could it be related to the tube material. I know you can get Butile or Latex tubes, do you need type specific patches???

Mike

jinkypolly

Mcofferon wrote: »

Sorry - Semi Hijacking this one

I've recently patched a tube with a 622-23 tyre (Conti Ultra road) using a Park tools kit. Had no problems with the Patch sticking and the tube holds preasure (110 psi) but now the tyre is noticable deformed (swollen slightly) around the site of the repair. Is this normal?

Yes, I would say that's normal. The patch will tend to be of a less stretchy material so won't expand as much as the tube. As long as you can achieve the required pressure it's not an issue.

Edit; Ignore this, I should have read the full question.

cdaly_

Mcofferon wrote: »

now the tyre is noticable deformed (swollen slightly) around the site of the repair. Is this normal?

The tyre itself is perforated though by the glass that caused the puncture so I'd say its on borrowed time

I'd say it's not normal. The bulge is due to damaged cords. Depending on where it was, I've got away with it for quite some time with damaged tyres. OTOH, one damaged tyre blew out at speed the next day and ripped my arm open...

doozerie

Mcofferon wrote:

I know you can get Butile or Latex tubes, do you need type specific patches???

I believe that butyl patches will work with latex, though I think that latex patches are considered better - I'm not sure if you can buy latex patches, some people just cut up an old latex tube to make their own patches.

I guess that latex patches would work on a butyl tube too, though I've never tried.

jinkypolly

Mcofferon wrote: »

Sorry - Semi Hijacking this one

I've recently patched a tube with a 622-23 tyre (Conti Ultra road) using a Park tools kit. Had no problems with the Patch sticking and the tube holds preasure (110 psi) but now the tyre is noticable deformed (swollen slightly) around the site of the repair. Is this normal?

The tyre itself is perforated though by the glass that caused the puncture so I'd say its on borrowed time, which is a shame as its only a month or so old.

Anyway, the Park patch and rubber solution seemed to work without a problem. Could it be related to the tube material. I know you can get Butile or Latex tubes, do you need type specific patches???

Mike

Sorry ignore my earlier post, I misread your post, I thought you were saying your tube was bulging and not the tyre.