Bought a house, insulating/air tightness for dummies?

Ush1

Hi there,

Just went sale agreed on a house that I think was built in the 70s and want to make it as energy efficient as possible when I move in.

It's red brick on the exterior with a cavity and a block wall I think.

I went to the DIY show in Citywest at the weekend but was bamboozled by all the different technologies and techniques for insulating/air tightness/heating.

Can anybody tell me in very basic terms whats the very best methods of insulating, air tightening and ventilating an existing house? Basically getting it as close to passive as possible. I realise this may be extremely expensive but I'm just looking for info at the moment.

Any help appreciated, cheers.

darragh_haven

Adding insulation - the best way as far as i know is External insulation and render it then. This will give the house good u-value and give it a new look. Its the best option if you going changing the windows. This might not an option due to the red brick exterior tho.
Alternativity, You could pump the cavity with bead and/or insulated slab the internal walls. Add quilt insulation to the attic.
Air tightness - on an existing house is an absolute nightmare and will cost a handsome sum wihile not giving the best results. this is from my limited experience and someone else might refute this.
Ventilation - If you are going to do so much work to the house, i would recommend using a MHRV (mechanicl heat recovery ventilation) system, there are several threads on these already.
Thats just, my 2 cent worth. Not saying i right, but they would be my preferred options

Ush1

darragh_haven wrote: »

Adding insulation - the best way as far as i know is External insulation and render it then. This will give the house good u-value and give it a new look. Its the best option if you going changing the windows. This might not an option due to the red brick exterior tho.
Alternativity, You could pump the cavity with bead and/or insulated slab the internal walls. Add quilt insulation to the attic.
Air tightness - on an existing house is an absolute nightmare and will cost a handsome sum wihile not giving the best results. this is from my limited experience and someone else might refute this.
Ventilation - If you are going to do so much work to the house, i would recommend using a MHRV (mechanicl heat recovery ventilation) system, there are several threads on these already.
Thats just, my 2 cent worth. Not saying i right, but they would be my preferred options

Cheers. Is the cavity bead better than the internal slab? Why is the air tightness so expensive?

Is there a formula to work out so the air keeps moving though the house with the ventilation system?

Ush1

Any experts out there able to help?:o

muffler

Not really answering your direct question but just to point out that you will need planning permission to change the facade of the house if going with ewi.

él statutorio

Ush1 wrote: »

Any experts out there able to help?:o

I'd reslab (on battens)the inside of the house if it was me. I'd do it to the <SNIP> * Canadian standard. (lots of insulation, uses plastic and is airtight) it would involve refitting all your electrical points though (they also have to have air tightness seals).

It's something you could do yourself if you're a bit handy.

Combine that with a good HRV system (which you would fit the ducting for while reslabbing) and you'll be laughing.

It shouldn't cost the earth, especially if you do a lot of it yourself. (I'd do it all myself)




Mod edit: Im removing a link to a standard in another country as it is not relevant here in Ireland

él statutorio

él statutorio wrote: »

Ush1 wrote: »

Any experts out there able to help?:o

I'd reslab (on battens)the inside of the house if it was me. I'd do it to the <SNIP> * Canadian standard. (lots of insulation, uses plastic and is airtight) it would involve refitting all your electrical points though (they also have to have air tightness seals).

It's something you could do yourself if you're a bit handy.

Combine that with a good HRV system (which you would fit the ducting for while reslabbing) and you'll be laughing.

It shouldn't cost the earth, especially if you do a lot of it yourself. (I'd do it all myself)




Mod edit: Im removing a link to a standard in another country as it is not relevant here in Ireland

I think you'll find it's very relevant, which is why it got the full approval of the Irish Agrément board and is certified to be used in Ireland.

Link <SNIP>

muffler

Post up the Agrement cert so

Edit: I have read the original text in your post above so just be careful with your comments and dont go querying a mods actions on thread.

BryanF

Ush1 wrote: »

Cheers. Is the cavity bead better than the internal slab? Why is the air tightness so expensive?

Is there a formula to work out so the air keeps moving though the house with the ventilation system?

Ush1 wrote: »

Any experts out there able to help?:o

Ventilation: see the technical guidance documents (building regulations) on the DOE website. As regards MVHR or MEV a manufacturer will generally size or the passivHous have several formula's (which I don't have to hand) but really ring a manfufacturer/ HVAC consultant .
Cavity is better than insulated slab: less thermal budging, less risk of interstitial condensation, you can hang pictures and your not rEducing your homes floor area.
Air-tightness so expensive: it's labour intensive, the tapes and membrane need to last/fixed/held/sealed/air-tigh for the buildings lifespan.

Experts able to help: contact a local arch / arch tech with experience dealing with old homes, a knowledge of building fabric , due points and preferably modern methods of air-tightness and ventilation ( maybe the passive house standard, but definitely thE BER)

BryanF

él statutorio wrote: »

I think you'll find it's very relevant, which is why it got the full approval of the Irish Agrément board and is certified to be used in Ireland.

Link <removing link taken out by mod above>

This seems to me to be no different to the passive standard except it's pushing for domestic ' zero carbon in use' - we are seeing the results of this in our current regulations, these tack on Eco bling elements should be achieved by investing in a large scale more effecent renewable facility where better cost, embodied energy and co2 savings can be made.

beyondpassive

Ush1 wrote: »

Any experts out there able to help?:o

PM sent on <SNIP> type refurbs.


Mod edit: Keep it to PM.

Ush1

muffler wrote: »

Not really answering your direct question but just to point out that you will need planning permission to change the facade of the house if going with ewi.

Is that always the case?

Ush1

BryanF wrote: »

Ventilation: see the technical guidance documents (building regulations) on the DOE website. As regards MVHR or MEV a manufacturer will generally size or the passivHous have several formula's (which I don't have to hand) but really ring a manfufacturer/ HVAC consultant .
Cavity is better than insulated slab: less thermal budging, less risk of interstitial condensation, you can hang pictures and your not rEducing your homes floor area.
Air-tightness so expensive: it's labour intensive, the tapes and membrane need to last/fixed/held/sealed/air-tigh for the buildings lifespan.

Experts able to help: contact a local arch / arch tech with experience dealing with old homes, a knowledge of building fabric , due points and preferably modern methods of air-tightness and ventilation ( maybe the passive house standard, but definitely thE BER)

Talking to a chartered engineer he actually recommended internal insulation! Would it be worth externally insulating the rear and gable walls and the internally insulate the front to retain red brick?

BryanF

Wall build up?

Ush1

BryanF wrote: »

Wall build up?

?