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Got a definitive car buying guide?

  • 02-09-2012 8:24am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭


    I reading/hearing conflicting information about what's involved in buying and insuring a car in Victoria.

    I've read previous threads on the subject and I understand a car needs
    (1) A rego - equivalent of car tax
    (2) A RWC (Road Worthy Certificate)

    However, I am hearing that insurance is not needed, as 3rd party insurance cover is applied to all drivers by including the cover in the cost of fuel. Conversely, I am hearing (for an Aussie) that private car insurance is required for every driver.

    Who's telling me pork pies? :confused:

    Also, I assume that when purchasing a car, the current owner needs to 'sign over' the vehicle, similar to how we do it in Ireland?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 270 ✭✭s.c


    kkelly77 wrote: »
    However, I am hearing that insurance is not needed, as 3rd party insurance cover is applied to all drivers by including the cover in the cost of fuel. required for every driver.

    This is a good one. Haven't heard it before.

    Third party Medical insurance is included with REGO. You can legally drive any car as long as it has REGO on it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,240 ✭✭✭hussey


    Usually 3 things required
    1 - CTP complusary third party, if you crash into someone you cover injuries
    2 - if car more than 5 years then road worthiness cert
    3 - registration, can only be completed if the two above are done

    If you crash and do damage to the other drivers car, CTP does not cover this, you have to get 3rd party for this, as my friend found out 4k later after hitting a BMW


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,747 ✭✭✭irishmover


    If you want to be covered you need comprehensive.

    If u think you'll never crash or be in an accident or have a car reverse into your parked car (just happened to my new car last week) then you'll be paying a lot of money if/when it does happen as you're not covered for anything.

    Luckily for me the idiot who reversed into my car left her number and her insurance is paying for it.

    Anyway, comprehensive insurance is cheap here compared to Ireland.

    2007 Subaru Impreza, I'm 24 and it's costing me $1100 a year with Allianz, who arent the cheapest.

    As for a guide I can't help with VIC sorry...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,435 ✭✭✭mandrake04


    There was a thread on Motors forum about this crap not long ago, I'm not sure where this petrol substitution for Insurance myth comes from.

    Every Car requires Rego (Car Tax) but you have to have a CTP Greenslip to Register a car.

    A greenslip is the Compulsory Third Party Insurance, it only covers personal injury to anyone injured in an accident except the driver at fault (unless driver-at-fault option is given)

    It does not cover 3rd Party Property damage.

    In NSW the Greenslip is bought from one of the 7 Greenslip Authorized Insurance companies, once you buy it the insurance provider sends notification to the RMS that you have CTP cover and then they will register your car.

    In VIC the Rego cost contains the TAC element (Transport Accident Commission) which is a state run CTP cover.

    All the above only covers personal injury and once you have Rego that's all you need to get you on the road.

    If you only have Rego/CTP then if you are involved in an accident then you better have deep pockets as you will be paying for the damage.

    You can get 3rd Party Property insurance that will cover you for property you have damaged.

    and of course Fully Comp covers your own car and any 3rd Party damage.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,280 ✭✭✭jackbhoy


    www.vicroads.vic.gov.au has most info you need and is well presented and easy to understand, for most part anyway.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭kkelly77


    Great responses lads. Thanks very much.

    I'm not too sure where the 3rd party cover for all drivers included in the price of fuel myth came from either :D

    So considering the age of the car I will be looking at I will need:

    CTP
    Rego
    Road Worthy Certificate as the car will definitely be older than 5 years (RWC)
    Either 3rd party or Fully comp insurance

    Any recommendations for insurance companies that quote competitively?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,240 ✭✭✭hussey


    I have a 19year old car, so not too fussed on my own damage, but I recently took up insurance from Kmart (which is owned by wesfarmers)
    http://www.ktas.com.au/insurance/ for 3rd party damage

    That was easily the cheapest, for me personally next was virgin money, and of the big insurances QBE was next, by a big margin.

    Usually the excess fee is around $500 mark though


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 270 ✭✭s.c


    kkelly77 wrote: »
    Great responses lads. Thanks very much.

    I'm not too sure where the 3rd party cover for all drivers included in the price of fuel myth came from either :D

    So considering the age of the car I will be looking at I will need:

    CTP
    Rego
    Road Worthy Certificate as the car will definitely be older than 5 years (RWC)
    Either 3rd party or Fully comp insurance

    Any recommendations for insurance companies that quote competitively?

    Buying a car in Victoria is a bit different than otherstate. CTP does not apply and every car being sold requires a RWC, regardless of age.

    Rego
    You can buy a car with or without Rego. Rego is around $650for a year. If the car is out of Rego by less than 3 months, then it can justbe renewed. If it is out by more than 3 months then the car must bereregistered costing just over $1000

    RWC
    A RWC is only obtained for a car when it is being sold. So acar could be 20 or 30 years old and never had a RWC if it only had one owner.
    You can buy a car with or without a RWC.
    The most straight forward way is to buy a car with a RWC(supplied by the seller). Then it is just a matter of filling in the paperwork(seller organises this) and handing over the cash. You then have a period oftime (30 days I think), to go to a VicRoads office to finalise the transfer andpay transfer fees (these vary depending on the value of the car - $100 up)

    Its a bit more complicated to buy a car without RWC. This isbuying an unregistered vehicle. The seller removes the plates and returns thento VicRoads. The buyer then needs to get a “Unregistered Vehicle Permit” todrive the car home. It is then up to the buyer to obtain the RWC to able tofinalise the transfer.

    I would recommend buying a car that has Rego and is beingsold with a RWC unless you know a good bit about cars.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭kkelly77


    Is there no flat charge on getting the RWC? Does the price just depend on the garage you bring it to?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 402 ✭✭Cooperspale


    kkelly77 wrote: »
    Is there no flat charge on getting the RWC? Does the price just depend on the garage you bring it to?
    No doesn't seem to be.
    Sold mine back in July.
    I phoned Kmart and they quoted me $165 I think but they knew my car and said there would be $$$ to be spent before passing-dodgy gear box, long story.
    Took it to little garage down the road, it was $145 but they didnt charge it as i had to give him 800$ for fixing it up to pass, they never even mentioned the gear box.
    moral of the story
    Don't buy old VW.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭kkelly77


    After some searching I've found a number of cars I can afford with both Rego and RWC.

    I didn't realise how much Aussies like their big engines. 3 and 4L's everywhere!!!

    The problem is, I've found cars with large engines going for cheaper money than smaller cars. Obviously the smaller cars will be cheaper to run even though the initial outlay is more. However, will they be easier to sell on when the time comes I have to get rid of it? Or does the average buyer prefer to have a 3.2L V6?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭kkelly77


    Went to see a dealer selling a car running petrol and LPG.

    He wouldn't budge on the price, even for cash. Are duel fuel cars such a premium in Oz or is he just bull****ting me and playing hardball?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 665 ✭✭✭sponge_bob


    I bought a toyota aurion at auction. Mileage was high allright but being an ex govt car it was well maintained and reguraly serviced. I paid 12k for it and a quick search on the internet reveals i saved about 4k for an equivalant car through a dealership or private sale. Of course thats not to say you couldnt find a cheaper one if you searched long enough. You also need to know your stuff when buying at auction as once you buy it you have no comeback. There was some very good bargains there to be got and most cars can be bought quite reasonably before auction but bring someone with you that knows something about cars, while you can start the cars you are not allowed to drive them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭kkelly77


    So it seems car dealers in Oz are not different to those anywhere else :rolleyes:

    A quick check on my potential purchase showed the car is actually a 1993 and not a 1994 as advertised. Wonder what else has been "embellished" in the ad?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 665 ✭✭✭sponge_bob


    kkelly77 wrote: »
    So it seems car dealers in Oz are not different to those anywhere else :rolleyes:

    A quick check on my potential purchase showed the car is actually a 1993 and not a 1994 as advertised. Wonder what else has been "embellished" in the ad?

    It is the exact same here as it is in Ireland or anywhere else in the world for that matter.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,333 ✭✭✭Zambia


    I would agree that it's hard to pick up a bargain in oz. ideally I would like to purchase a new car but the value for money you get is shocking. Small cars under 2 litres all seem to come with a catch in relation to repair cost or high initial purchase. Second hand that is. I personally am holding out for a dmax to come down in price.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 665 ✭✭✭sponge_bob


    another tip when buying a car in oz is stick to petrol, diesel cars are expensive to service and very expensive to fix if anything goes wrong with em.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 106 ✭✭RadarControl


    Would you recommend buying Japanese\Australian models over European? I'm looking at Outlander or Volvo XC90.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭kkelly77


    Put a deposit on a car today. Bought from a small dealer, with Rego and road worthy. 1996 Mitsubishi Lancer 1.5L automatic.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 665 ✭✭✭sponge_bob


    kkelly77 wrote: »
    Put a deposit on a car today. Bought from a small dealer, with Rego and road worthy. 1996 Mitsubishi Lancer 1.5L automatic.


    Tell us more, milage, price, etc.

    Oh and well wear:)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭kkelly77


    sponge_bob wrote: »
    Tell us more, milage, price, etc.

    Oh and well wear:)

    244k kms
    Wanted 2500 got it for 2250. Probably should have pushed for more off but I had a pain in my arse shopping for motors.

    As well as the RWC, I asked that the battery is replaced and a/c is FULLY working. It's only going to get hotter here :D Rego is valid until April 2013. For those not in the know, Rego is about $700 a year and in Vic can only be paid for the full year. No 6 month payments available.

    I did find a Ford Laser in another dealer that only had 94000 kms on it except the Rego was out in Nov.


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