Impact wrench

msg11

Would anyone in north Dublin be able to give a lend of an impact wrench/drill or even come over to help me with removing a camshalf pully?

Greyfoot

What car is that mate? Might be a small panel on the bottom of the gearbox, take that off then jam a large flat head screwdriver between the teeth of the flywheel to stop it from turning then have a friend to break free the pulley bolt.

EDIT: Just noticed you are talking about cam pulley :DDD
I presume the cam(s) is already out of the car so take the cam to a mechanic or tyre centre, they`ll pop it off for you in seconds.
If its still in the head then chances are there is a hex on the cam to hold it from spinning. Tough job with spanners though..

msg11

Greyfoot wrote: »

What car is that mate? Might be a small panel on the bottom of the gearbox, take that off then jam a large flat head screwdriver between the teeth of the flywheel to stop it from turning then have a friend to break free the pulley bolt.

EDIT: Just noticed you are talking about cam pulley :DDD
I presume the cam(s) is already out of the car so take the cam to a mechanic or tyre centre, they`ll pop it off for you in seconds.
If its still in the head then chances are there is a hex on the cam to hold it from spinning. Tough job with spanners though..

Keep getting the parts mixed up! I'm trying to remove the main crank pully, it's on a lancer Evolution 4. The rubber has perished and the part is in two half's.

sheehan12

put the car in 1 gear and the brake on that will stop crankshaft for turning i guess you want it off to change the timebelt ?

Greyfoot

msg11 wrote: »

Keep getting the parts mixed up! I'm trying to remove the main crank pully, it's on a lancer Evolution 4. The rubber has perished and the part is in two half's.

There is an L shaped panel on the bottom of the gearbox mate, take the two bolts out then jam a large screwdriver against the flywheel teeth as I said, pulley bolt should break free that way.
Good luck.

EDIT: In case you are changing the timing belt too dont forget to align the timing marks when taking off the old belt, then DO NOT turn the crank any more at all when timing belt is off.

msg11

Greyfoot wrote: »

There is an L shaped panel on the bottom of the gearbox mate, take the two bolts out then jam a large screwdriver against the flywheel teeth as I said, pulley bolt should break free that way.
Good luck.

EDIT: In case you are changing the timing belt too dont forget to align the timing marks when taking off the old belt, then DO NOT turn the crank any more at all when timing belt is off.

No not planning on doing timing, that a bit out of my league. I can do a lot with cars.

Cheers for the tip, I'll try locate that plate.

Greyfoot

Ok, the L plate should be near the cross member where the box meets the engine, two 10mm bolts holding in place.

msg11

Greyfoot wrote: »

Ok, the L plate should be near the cross member where the box meets the engine, two 10mm bolts holding in place.

Sound, any other tips for getting it off? Should it just slide of..

Greyfoot

msg11 wrote: »

Sound, any other tips for getting it off? Should it just slide of..

Don`t know if the four has one big centre bolt or more smaller ones but obviously don`t loose them. Also watch for the washer(s), spacer and the little crank key(if present). Clean and degrease them properly before refitting, then apply a small amount of oil to the thread(s) of the bolt(s) before tightening to the specified torque(167Nm). Same method applies when reinstalling, use a screwdriver to hold the flywheel.

Here is a manual for your engine, might come in handy.

Also if not a member already, join here and here.

msg11

Greyfoot wrote: »

Don`t know if the four has one big centre bolt or more smaller ones but obviously don`t loose them. Also watch for the washer(s), spacer and the little crank key(if present). Clean and degrease them properly before refitting, then apply a small amount of oil to the thread(s) of the bolt(s) before tightening to the specified torque(167Nm). Same method applies when reinstalling, use a screwdriver to hold the flywheel.

Here is a manual for your engine, might come in handy.

Also if not a member already, join here and here.

Sadly it didn't work the bolt is just to tight for any of my tools to get off by hand. Member of both actully , haven't been on either site in a while. Cheers for the advise I'll have another crack at it today.

Greyfoot

Use a breaker bar or an extension pipe of some sort on the ratchet, thats what I used on mine, the bitch was torqued close to 170nm and threads locked with lock and seal. You will get it loose eventually, all you need is good leverage and the satisfaction after you succeed will be priceless.

msg11

Greyfoot wrote: »

Use a breaker bar or an extension pipe of some sort on the ratchet, thats what I used on mine, the bitch was torqued close to 170nm and threads locked with lock and seal. You will get it loose eventually, all you need is good leverage and the satisfaction after you succeed will be priceless.

I tried to use a bar, sadly the bolt came out the winner and broke my bar. I'll get it off some how.

Then again half tempted to buy a gun, they do electric ones. Would you recommend and electric gun to buy ?

haulagebasher

Forget the impact whench. A 1/2 inch gun is a waste of time and an electric one is an even bigger waste of time. If you broke your breaker bar then an impact wrench defo won't do. There is a perception among some that impact wrenched have unstoppable torque, they don't. A breaker bar will apply far more torpue. Why don't you just put it in first and have a friend apply the brakes hard while you undo the bolt?

Alternatively the most sure fire way to remove it is to make up a counterhold tool from some flat or angle iron. There shoudl be some grooves, lugs or slots into which a counterhold can go. I have made one in a Y shape with the Y joint being bolted to allow movement. I have short 1 inch flat projections on the sides of each prong that interlock with the lugs or slots. A bit of effort making up something like this, you'll save a lot of sweat and skint knukkles

If the going gets really tough and since you pulley is fcuked anyway, you could just weld a legth of angle across it and let it counterhold itself iff the ground or whatever, that way you'll have 2 hands to do the pulling

another, (unorthodox and risky) method I have seen used for removing a stubborn crankshaft bolt is to put you socket and bar in place and prop it firmly against the ground or the chassis. Then crank the starter to break her loose. Don't let the engine start though. Pull out the plug leads beforehand.

msg11

Right got it off. Got an extension bar off a friend. Just have to put an order in for the part.

She was a tuff cookie to get off, regardless the pole came out better off this time!

Just on putting it back on, it has to be torqued. I never used a torque tool before (I know), but can you suggest a cheap but good one to buy and what torque is the bolt would anyone know, thinking of putting some lock tight on the bolts when going back on also.

Also it's can get a bit spluttery if I put the foot down kinda like a lag, I know there should be lag but this is odd.

I ain't talking about deciding to gun it down the road, say I was on a motor way doing about 80 and the zone changed to 120, if I put the foot down so to speak and upped the speed to 110/120, it would climb nicely but sometimes it would splutter in boost?

I did fit an after market intercooler, thinking the fuel pump could be on the way out? I service it regular and just recently changed the sparks.

firefly08

msg11 wrote: »

Right got it off. Got an extension bar off a friend. Just have to put an order in for the part.

She was a tuff cookie to get off, regardless the pole came out better off this time!

Just on putting it back on, it has to be torqued. I never used a torque tool before (I know), but can you suggest a cheap but good one to buy and what torque is the bolt would anyone know, thinking of putting some lock tight on the bolts when going back on also.

Also it's can get a bit spluttery if I put the foot down kinda like a lag, I know there should be lag but this is odd.

I ain't talking about deciding to gun it down the road, say I was on a motor way doing about 80 and the zone changed to 120, if I put the foot down so to speak and upped the speed to 110/120, it would climb nicely but sometimes it would splutter in boost?

I did fit an after market intercooler, thinking the fuel pump could be on the way out? I service it regular and just recently changed the sparks.

Well if I broke a tool trying to remove a bolt I'd think twice before putting loctite on it

I'd follow Greyfoot's advice re torque specs and putting oil on the threads.

Regarding the spluttering, I wouldn't assume the fuel pump is bad from that - look for a vacuum/boost leak, especially after installing a new intercooler. Check all the hose connections and make sure they're tight.

ahnoo

i know this isnt relevant and im really sorry but can someone PLEASE tell me how to make a post to ask a new question? i just joined and need answers to my questions asap.

firefly08

ahnoo wrote: »

i know this isnt relevant and im really sorry but can someone PLEASE tell me how to make a post to ask a new question? i just joined and need answers to my questions asap.

Yep just go to the forum you want and do this:

msg11

Just checking out the part and prices..

OEM is about 170 from camskill

and then I found this about 100 from ebay..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-AROSPEED-Light-Weight-Crank-Pulley-Mitsubishi-LANCER-EVO-4-5-6-/400270655532?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d31fd802c#ht_3142wt_812

Any ideas ?

Greyfoot

Stay away from the likes of that pulley mate, EVO uses a harmonic balancer with dampener for a reason. You might get away with light weight pulley on the long run but use top brand like HKS or Fidenza, read a few horror stories about them cheapo ones.

Good job removing the pulley, as for the hesitation, I am experiencing the same so will get back to you once I figured out the power loss.

Check for boost/vacuum leaks as suggested first.