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Audi TT electric niggles.....

  • 17-08-2012 10:40am
    #1
    galwaytt
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,822 ✭✭✭✭


    ...wondering where to start looking at the issue, really.

    Occasionally, the car won't start, due to a flat, or low, battery. Now, I assume, this being a CANBUS equipped car, that a simple pulling of fuses to i.d. the problem won't work, and I'm wondering where to start (sic :rolleyes: )

    I noticed when I turned the key to the start position this morning, that the message 'FUSE' came up on the display on the odo, but not sure what that means, exactly.

    At the moment the yaw sensor on the back axle is faulty, and i've a new one just arrived ready to fit, and I think the airbag squib is faulty (got an error scan done lately) - is it possible that either of these components are 'awake' on the BUS, and causing this ? It seems to pull down the battery over the course of one night.

    If it's not something immediately DIY-able, I'm looking for an experienced VAG-head to sort, so recommendations welcome.

    TIA, as they say.

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



Comments

  • #2
    Media999
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,695 ✭✭✭Media999


    have you actually just tried a different battery. Ive replaced mine twice in 5 years. Thats all that ever went wrong with mine. battery could be underpowered or just not giving out correct volts.


  • #3
    galwaytt
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,822 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    Media999 wrote: »
    have you actually just tried a different battery. Ive replaced mine twice in 5 years. Thats all that ever went wrong with mine. battery could be underpowered or just not giving out correct volts.

    ...funny you should mention that.............had the car reassembled with new dashpod repaired, new HU, and all waxed and shiney for a wedding on Saturday. Was driving the car on Friday. Came out to garage and......nada. Zilch. Not a volt in sight............ :mad:

    .....Sunday, after a trickle charge the previous day, car started normal, and went to the Car & Coffee meet, via town, to drop SO off for work and to collect my youngest from a sleep-over (training him to be a petrol head :) )...and the alternator light comes on.......FFS...........limp down the road and...........it goes off again. As does ESP and ABS lights............hmmmmmm

    After the Coffee & Cars thing, back into town to collect SO from work and.......first thing, the HU goes off. Completely. This is significant as it's not connected to the vehicle Bus, but tapped onto a separate live battery feed. So obviously 12v has been interrupted........hmmm :cool:.......a few hundred meters later, in huge traffic, at Dunnes Roundabout on the Heaford Road............all needle drop to zero and car goes.........duhhhhhhh......dead as doornail. Couldn't barely operate flashers.

    A quick phone call to one of the lads at the meet sees him with me in a few minutes, and we jump my car, starts perfect, and I pull into car park. Nothing untoward under the bonnet, no belts askew. No smoke, melted or pulled connectors........mmm. I say to Steve, I'll have to start metering stuff.........and voila, he pulls a DMM from the boot of his car...........mine, running, is only measuring 8.9v across the battery. So I strongly suspect the alternator and/or the battery is up to something..........more hmmmmmm........


    So, I try and limp out of the car park and.........it dies again. Don't you just love drive-by-wire ? Not enough volts to drive the throttle body means........your right foot is moving.........and the engine.......isn't. FFS. Pushed off the roundabout, again !, and call A.N Other with an SUV, and buy a towrope in the car accessory shop beside us.

    Tow car home. Not enough volts to drive flashers. Or wipers. Or close windows (rain, again............). What a fupping day.

    So, it's in workshop now, and they will pull Alt and battery first, to see what's what - maybe, hopefully, the battery/Alt is the primary cause of all the elec niggles. With too-low voltage, I'm sure all the circuits (e.g. Airbag, ESP, ABS) will all alarm like mad and light up the dash.

    Makes me want the (mint) BJ40 at the meet yesterday - i had a look under the bonnet, and if there was about 6 wires, it was about as much. LOL, to have them all like that again...........I can see the attraction....

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • #4
    Media999
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,695 ✭✭✭Media999


    Might be the alternator if it was measured while running.

    What was it measuring not running?


  • #5
    galwaytt
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,822 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    Media999 wrote: »
    Might be the alternator if it was measured while running.

    What was it measuring not running?

    ....never thought to check tbh..........if someone had walked up to me and offered me a fiver for it, I'd have given him the keys, tbh, and walked home.

    Next car, Japanese, I promise :p

    [edit]....mind you, if it was effectively running on the battery, it would have been down anyway.........yes ? [/edit]

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • #6
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Hi, i had a similar issue with my M3 actually this last two weeks.

    Battery is less than 3 years old. you should do a parasitic draw test on the battery. Mine appeared to be pulling double what it should have been.

    So running a draw test with multimeter and pulling and replacing individual fuses actually resolved the draw back to normal levels, I did this yesterday with a fully trickle charged battery and the key test was this morning where she started fine

    (hasnt done that in weeks) I believe in my case the ABS ASC control module was awake but pulling the fuse when powered performed an active reset.

    All good now.


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  • #7
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    In summation do a parasitic draw test, make sure the battery is fully charged prior to doing this. use a trickle charger to charge it up.


  • #8
    galwaytt
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,822 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    listermint wrote: »
    Hi, i had a similar issue with my M3 actually this last two weeks.

    Battery is less than 3 years old. you should do a parasitic draw test on the battery. Mine appeared to be pulling double what it should have been.

    So running a draw test with multimeter and pulling and replacing individual fuses actually resolved the draw back to normal levels, I did this yesterday with a fully trickle charged battery and the key test was this morning where she started fine

    (hasnt done that in weeks) I believe in my case the ABS ASC control module was awake but pulling the fuse when powered performed an active reset.

    All good now.
    Interesting - if the Alt/Battery are goosed and fixed, or found to be good, I'll do the parasitic test. Actually, I did, before, but don't have the numbers to hand, but the draw at the battery was tiny.......which was inconclusive, to say the least. I suspected that something was either staying awake, or waking sporadically.
    listermint wrote: »
    In summation do a parasitic draw test, make sure the battery is fully charged prior to doing this. use a trickle charger to charge it up.

    ....the only thing about a parasitic test on car like this (CanBus), is that it there shouldn't actually be NO draw at all - don't some functions actually have to draw, when idle (albeit, very low ) ? I read somewhere that because of this, a better test - maybe a complimentary one - is actually a mV drop across a given circuit/fuse, and that there is actually a VAG TB on this, somewhere in the ether......?

    Anyhoo, I'll keep ye posted, and start with the (big!) simple stuff, first ! :)

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • #9
    galwaytt
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,822 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    listermint wrote: »
    (hasnt done that in weeks) I believe in my case the ABS ASC control module was awake but pulling the fuse when powered performed an active reset.

    All good now.

    ....out of curiousity: is that because the module was faulty (and if so what was the cure), or is this actually normal (draw, that is) ?

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • #10
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    galwaytt wrote: »
    Interesting - if the Alt/Battery are goosed and fixed, or found to be good, I'll do the parasitic test. Actually, I did, before, but don't have the numbers to hand, but the draw at the battery was tiny.......which was inconclusive, to say the least. I suspected that something was either staying awake, or waking sporadically.



    ....the only thing about a parasitic test on car like this (CanBus), is that it there shouldn't actually be NO draw at all - don't some functions actually have to draw, when idle (albeit, very low ) ? I read somewhere that because of this, a better test - maybe a complimentary one - is actually a mV drop across a given circuit/fuse, and that there is actually a VAG TB on this, somewhere in the ether......?

    Anyhoo, I'll keep ye posted, and start with the (big!) simple stuff, first ! :)

    I believe my M3 is also Canbus, so irregardless you will never get a Zero Draw from the system. Some elements do require a draw outside the Canbus circuit.


  • #11
    listermint
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    galwaytt wrote: »
    ....out of curiousity: is that because the module was faulty (and if so what was the cure), or is this actually normal (draw, that is) ?

    No i dont believe the module was faulty. Ive ran it through INPA and it as shown no faults. And also from physical testing there are no issues. Im assuming it was in an active awake mode, my active reset may have reset the ROM.


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