Is this a good price?

anniehoo

Need a good few bits done on my car (99 Civic). Drove for far too long on knackered back bushings so got quoted ~€400 for left and right back bushing replacement, front stabilser bracket/bar, new wipers,back brake bulb and oil change. It sounds decent enough...but have to check to make sure.

Jammy Donut

Seriously?
That's a joke of a price.

Change the bulb and wipers yourself, Just google it to get a DIY guide.

As for an oil change change, Oil + Filter are about €50 (You could possibly DIY it if your confident)


As for the rest just get a good mechanic that's not based in a main garage.

Jimbob 83

All and all seems a fair enough price including labour

Mycroft H

Ignore the wipers and the brake bulb, do them yourself.

What does the oil change entail - cheap mineral oil change only? Or a decent semi-synthetic with a change of all the engines filters?

Rob32

BX 19 wrote: »

Ignore the wipers and the brake bulb, do them yourself.

What does the oil change entail - cheap mineral oil change only? Or a decent semi-synthetic with a change of all the engines filters?

Id imagine its semi synthetic as cars dont use mineral oil anymore, and if its an oil and filter change, theyll change eh the oil and oil filter presumably.

OP assuming its the rear swing arm bushes there changing thats not a bad price.

Mycroft H

Rob32 wrote: »

Id imagine its semi synthetic as cars dont use mineral oil anymore

Course they do.

Rob32

BX 19 wrote: »

Course they do.

Sorry let me be more specific modern cars no longer use mineral oil as its not as effective at higher temperatures and some cars oil seals (crank seals etc) have issues with full mineral oils reacting with them and making them brittle/more prone to leaking.

If you know a garage putting mineral oil into cars id avoid them.

Mycroft H

Rob32 wrote: »

Sorry let me be more specific modern cars no longer use mineral oil as its not as effective at higher temperatures and some cars oil seals (crank seals etc) have issues with full mineral oils reacting with them and making them brittle/more prone to leaking.

If you know a garage putting mineral oil into cars id avoid them.

Thats why I asked the OP

There are plenty of 90's cars that will happily run around with mineral oil and plenty of companies still sell mineral oil for that purpose, Castrol GTX for example. To say that no cars use mineral oil anymore is wrong.

anniehoo

Jammy Donut wrote: »

Seriously?
That's a joke of a price..

Jimbob 83 wrote: »

All and all seems a fair enough price including labour

So which is it lads??

BX 19 wrote: »

Ignore the wipers and the brake bulb, do them yourself.

I changed the bulb but its still not working....so probably electrics of some sort then.

Rob32 wrote: »

OP assuming its the rear swing arm bushes there changing thats not a bad price.

They're underneath at the back. Is there only one on each side? If so thats them.

Rob32

BX 19 wrote: »

Thats why I asked the OP

There are plenty of 90's cars that will happily run around with mineral oil and plenty of companies still sell mineral oil for that purpose, Castrol GTX for example. To say that no cars use mineral oil anymore is wrong.

Mineral oil is still sold as theres still classic/older cars on the roads. I didnt say no cars use mineral oil anymore i said no modern cars do. Yes im sure any car you put mineral oil in will of course run albeit with accelerated engine wear terrible internal temperatue issues and the possibility of the black death that killed so many engines in the 80s. To be honest i could put fairy liquid in my cars engine and itll run for a while im sure. Doesnt mean its reccommended though now does it.

But if the garage has your seemingly "ah sure itll do" attitude then maybe your correct and they will put mineral oil in.

And here are hondas reccomendations for the car, assuming its a 1.4 of course. Info is taken from Autodata

Engine oil options
Ambient temperature range : ==> 35°C
Engine oil grade SAE: 5W-30
Engine oil classification API/ACEA: SJ/A2
Ambient temperature range : -20°C ==> 35°C
Engine oil grade SAE: 10W-30
Engine oil classification API/ACEA: SJ/A2
Ambient temperature range : -20°C ==>
Engine oil grade SAE: 10W-40
Engine oil classification API/ACEA: SJ/A2
Ambient temperature range : -15°C ==>
Engine oil grade SAE: 15W-40, 15W-50
Engine oil classification API/ACEA: SJ/A2
Ambient temperature range : -10°C ==>
Engine oil grade SAE: 20W-40, 20W-50
Engine oil classification API/ACEA: SJ/A2
Engine with filter(s) litres: 3,3

Note the oil classifications, if i remember correctly a E designation would be mineral oil, you can see its A2


This is all coming from memory if im wrong about the classifications feel free to correct me. I do however think most people will agree mineral oil use in modern engines is pointless and a reputable garage shouldnt be using it.

Mycroft H

Rob32 wrote: »

Mineral oil is still sold as theres still classic/older cars on the roads. I didnt say no cars use mineral oil anymore i said no modern cars do.

≠

Rob32 wrote: »

Id imagine its semi synthetic as cars dont use mineral oil anymore, and if its an oil and filter change, theyll change eh the oil and oil filter presumably.

Rob32 wrote: »

And here are hondas reccomendations for the car, assuming its a 1.4 of course. Info is taken from Autodata

Engine oil options
Ambient temperature range : ==> 35°C
Engine oil grade SAE: 5W-30
Engine oil classification API/ACEA: SJ/A2
Ambient temperature range : -20°C ==> 35°C
Engine oil grade SAE: 10W-30
Engine oil classification API/ACEA: SJ/A2
Ambient temperature range : -20°C ==>
Engine oil grade SAE: 10W-40
Engine oil classification API/ACEA: SJ/A2
Ambient temperature range : -15°C ==>
Engine oil grade SAE: 15W-40, 15W-50
Engine oil classification API/ACEA: SJ/A2
Ambient temperature range : -10°C ==>
Engine oil grade SAE: 20W-40, 20W-50
Engine oil classification API/ACEA: SJ/A2
Engine with filter(s) litres: 3,3

Note the oil classifications, if i remember correctly a E designation would be mineral oil, you can see its A2


This is all coming from memory if im wrong about the classifications feel free to correct me. I do however think most people will agree mineral oil use in modern engines is pointless and a reputable garage shouldnt be using it.

The API(American) and ACEA (European) oil ratings don't differentiate as to what the base stock of the oil is, be it mineral, semi-syn, fully syn. They only care whether the oil meets the benchmark. API SJ works in any petrol engine made before 2001 and the ACEA A2 (and A1) ratings are the base benchmark for petrol motor oils. So from that auto data stuff, you could put any 5W30 to 20W-40 oil into the 1.4 honda engine and it will meet manufactures specifications.

Castrol GTX (the dreaded mineral oil....) actually exceeds the API and the ACEA specifications and would be perfectly okay in this engine.

APPROVALS & SPECIFICATIONS
ACEA A3/B4
API SL/CF
MB-Approval 229.1
VW 501 01

ACEA A3 designates it as a higher performance oil then the A2 rating.

Rob32

BX 19 wrote: »

Rob32 wrote: »

Mineral oil is still sold as theres still classic/older cars on the roads. I didnt say no cars use mineral oil anymore i said no modern cars do.

≠

Rob32 wrote: »

Id imagine its semi synthetic as cars dont use mineral oil anymore, and if its an oil and filter change, theyll change eh the oil and oil filter presumably.

Rob32 wrote: »

And here are hondas reccomendations for the car, assuming its a 1.4 of course. Info is taken from Autodata

Engine oil options
Ambient temperature range : ==> 35°C
Engine oil grade SAE: 5W-30
Engine oil classification API/ACEA: SJ/A2
Ambient temperature range : -20°C ==> 35°C
Engine oil grade SAE: 10W-30
Engine oil classification API/ACEA: SJ/A2
Ambient temperature range : -20°C ==>
Engine oil grade SAE: 10W-40
Engine oil classification API/ACEA: SJ/A2
Ambient temperature range : -15°C ==>
Engine oil grade SAE: 15W-40, 15W-50
Engine oil classification API/ACEA: SJ/A2
Ambient temperature range : -10°C ==>
Engine oil grade SAE: 20W-40, 20W-50
Engine oil classification API/ACEA: SJ/A2
Engine with filter(s) litres: 3,3

Note the oil classifications, if i remember correctly a E designation would be mineral oil, you can see its A2


This is all coming from memory if im wrong about the classifications feel free to correct me. I do however think most people will agree mineral oil use in modern engines is pointless and a reputable garage shouldnt be using it.

The API(American) and ACEA (European) oil ratings don't differentiate as to what the base stock of the oil is, be it mineral, semi-syn, fully syn. They only care whether the oil meets the benchmark. API SJ works in any petrol engine made before 2001 and the ACEA A2 (and A1) ratings are the base benchmark for petrol motor oils. So from that auto data stuff, you could put any 5W30 to 20W-40 oil into the 1.4 honda engine and it will meet manufactures specifications.

Castrol GTX (the dreaded mineral oil....) actually exceeds the API and the ACEA specifications and would be perfectly okay in this engine.

APPROVALS & SPECIFICATIONS
ACEA A3/B4
API SL/CF
MB-Approval 229.1
VW 501 01

ACEA A3 designates it as a higher performance oil then the A2 rating.

Could I just point out thats a bottle of fully synthetic castrol gtx youve linked me to?

Mycroft H

Rob32 wrote: »

Could I just point out thats a bottle of fully synthetic castrol gtx youve linked me to?

How did you figure that out? Castrol GTX is a mineral blend. Castrol EDGE is the top notch Synthetic blend.

Rob32

BX 19 wrote: »

How did you figure that out? Castrol GTX is a mineral blend. Castrol EDGE is the top notch Synthetic blend.

Firstly sorry I meant part synthetic secondly I know GTX comes as a synthetic too and thirdly I will admit the castrol website isnt very clear, however, http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-69385-castrol-gtx-10w-40-a3b4-part-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx
Here is, plus on the castrol site if you zoom in it says part synthetic on the bottle.

Rob32

BX 19 wrote: »

≠

The API(American) and ACEA (European) oil ratings don't differentiate as to what the base stock of the oil is, be it mineral, semi-syn, fully syn. They only care whether the oil meets the benchmark. API SJ works in any petrol engine made before 2001 and the ACEA A2 (and A1) ratings are the base benchmark for petrol motor oils. So from that auto data stuff, you could put any 5W30 to 20W-40 oil into the 1.4 honda engine and it will meet manufactures specifications.

Castrol GTX (the dreaded mineral oil....) actually exceeds the API and the ACEA specifications and would be perfectly okay in this engine.





ACEA A3 designates it as a higher performance oil then the A2 rating.

Oh and SJ actually means its phosphorus limit is 0.10% rather than 0.12% for the SH and SG ratings.

And A2 means the oil would be standard performance A3 would mean high performance

Rob32

anniehoo wrote: »

So which is it lads??


I changed the bulb but its still not working....so probably electrics of some sort then.



They're underneath at the back. Is there only one on each side? If so thats them.

Yup id say were talking bout the same bushes. All in all its not a bad price.