Changing Coolant

galwaydude18

Hi I'm wondering what is the correct procedure to flush out the coolant and replace with new coolant in a 00 Niassan Delivery van?

Thanks in advance

galwaydude18

Anyone?

haulagebasher

Not familiar with these but since no-one else contributed, i might just give some generic guidance. undo the bottom rad hose and drain it. reconnect and put in rad flush and refill the system. Follow the flush instructions, usually run it for 20 mins whatever. Drain again, then refill and rinse it out a few times. Then refill with coolant. Make sure to bleed air out of the system if that is applicable to that type of engine. Often bleed screws are on the hoses leading to the cabin heater heater. Sometimes there is also a screw at the top of the rad. If there is a thin hose from the head to a header tank, then you won't need to bleed. Make sure to check the coolant level after a short drive as it could drop due to air escaping.Also it might be handy to have a replacement jublee clip handy for the radiator hose as the old ones often go in flitters if they are very stiff.Even if there is a drain plug on the rad, I would advicse draining via the hose as the large flow rate will draw out a lot of settled crud.

galwaydude18

haulagebasher wrote: »

Not familiar with these but since no-one else contributed, i might just give some generic guidance. undo the bottom rad hose and drain it. reconnect and put in rad flush and refill the system. Follow the flush instructions, usually run it for 20 mins whatever. Drain again, then refill and rinse it out a few times. Then refill with coolant. Make sure to bleed air out of the system if that is applicable to that type of engine. Often bleed screws are on the hoses leading to the cabin heater heater. Sometimes there is also a screw at the top of the rad. If there is a thin hose from the head to a header tank, then you won't need to bleed. Make sure to check the coolant level after a short drive as it could drop due to air escaping.Also it might be handy to have a replacement jublee clip handy for the radiator hose as the old ones often go in flitters if they are very stiff.Even if there is a drain plug on the rad, I would advicse draining via the hose as the large flow rate will draw out a lot of settled crud.

What is the purpose of the rad flush? Do you fill the rad and expansion tank up with it and then drain it out again? Or do i need to run the van to warm up then drain it out again? Once that is done fill up with coolant and water, run the until it heats up leaving the rad plug on the tip if the rad off to allow any air out?

haulagebasher

The rad flush is just a sort of detergent or what ever that helps loosen built up sh!te around the system. Usually in a bottle of about half to a full litre. you drain the system fully, then refit hose. Then pour in the rad flush and fill the system with water up to the full mark. Usually you run the engine then for like 20 or 30 minutes before draining it out again. rinse it out a few times after to remove any traces of crap still floating around. NOTE if you are using coolant, use coolant only - dont mix it with water. Otherwise 50/50 antifreeze water mix. No need to leave the caps off or anything, just keep an eye on the level and top up after a short drive.

galwaydude18

How do I bleed the air out of the cooling system when I finally fill it up with either coolant or 50/50 antifreeze mix?

biko

Some old write ups I did:

The flush:
It costs close to 70 to get it done by a garage so if you can diy you'll save.
You will find manuals online for your brand but usually it goes like this:

Set heat knob to full and turn ignition to 2 (the setting just before the car starts). This will open the core valve.
Unscrew the radiator cap and bleed screw.

There is a screw at the bottom of the radiator. Unscrew this and have a bucket ready (it'll prob get everywhere anyway...) so don't unscrew fully.
Wait 30 mins or so for coolant to fully drain.

Screw the bottom screw back and fill radiator with water, run engine for 5-10 mins.
Unscrew the bottom screw and drain.
Repeat filling with water and drain until water is clear.

When clear fill with correct coolant (some will need water and some are ready-mixed) and presto, done.

Take the drained coolant to recycling. Use old 2 litre milk jugs.
Wash any on the floor away with plenty of water, animals will lap it up otherwise (sweet taste).
__________________

If the inside heat doesn't come or is low then maybe the coolant could be low/there are airlocks in the system.
Both of these are easy to fix.
First check that coolant level is where it should be.
If it's low or even if it normal try burping car.

Easiest way to burp is to park car facing uphill, drive around until you find a steep hill (air will burp faster this way).
Then remove cap on expansion tank (beware, hot steam will spray out. You can use a kitchen towel and cover the cap and tank so it doesn't spray in your face). Gloves are good too.

Then have ready mixed (50/50) anti-freeze and water (distilled if you can find it) in a two litre old milk jug or similar.
Remove the top bleed screw on the radiator.
While engine runs and heaters inside are on full blast and max heat, slowly pour the mix in until the coolant starts coming out through the bleed hole.
You may have to push the throttle a little to increase flow.
Once the mix coming out the bleed hole doesn't have bubbles you should be fine, it usually takes 1-2 mins and a few pushes on the throttle.
Replace bleed screw and the fill coolant to the designated limit.
Replace expansion tank cap.
Make sure both are firmly in place, there is pressure in the system and if they aren't firmly on coolant will evaporate. Don't break them though.

firefly08

+1

If there is a bleed screw, remove it fully just before you do the final fill. As soon as coolant starts coming out of the bleed hole, replace the bleed screw and then finish off filling to the proper level.

On some cars If you do this you can save yourself having to do the bleed procedure described above.

Nissan doctor

Presumably its the LD23 engine you have? From memory there is a bleed screw on the top of the thermostat housing which is just beside the inlet manifold.

galwaydude18

Nissan doctor wrote: »

Presumably its the LD23 engine you have? From memory there is a bleed screw on the top of the thermostat housing which is just beside the inlet manifold.

Not sure what model engine it is. It's a 2.3 diesel. Where would I need to look For the bleed screw ? Front or back or side of the engine? Sorry for my stupidity

Nissan doctor

galwaydude18 wrote: »

Not sure what model engine it is. It's a 2.3 diesel. Where would I need to look For the bleed screw ? Front or back or side of the engine? Sorry for my stupidity

The LD23 is the 2.3 diesel. The thermostat housing is at the timing belt end of the engine next to the inlet manifold.
I think there were some models that had a pipe coming from the same position and running to the expansion bottle so would be self bleeding.

galwaydude18

Thanks ND I'll have a look tomorrow and see can I find it.