Finding the bite point: Never stall a car again!

LDC ADI 34490

Here are some tips for those of you who are struggling with the bite point

The bite point is when the clutch plate engages your fly wheel (engine plate). You will know you are at the bite point by either of the following methods:

• You'll hear the engine make a slightly different sound due to the revs dropping and you’ll also see the rev counter needle drop a little
• Also if you look at the front of the car, you'll also see it 'lift' up a tiny amount (sometimes you can actually feel that little lift too) when at the bite poin

Practice finding the bite point and moving off smoothly as follows

1. Press the clutch fully to the floor and select 1st gear
2. Set the gas (accelerator) pedal to approx 2000 revs (petrol car, slightly less in a diesel) and hold the gas pedal steady
3. Slowly bring the clutch up to the bite point and keep your foot still (listen to engine or watch front of car lift to recognise the bite point)
4. Check your mirrors and blind spot and then indicate if safe to move
5. Release your handbrake and only then slowly lift the clutch whilst slowly pressing the gas, you'll pull away slowly and under control

If you stall moving off it’ll be for one of the following reasons:

1. You brought the clutch up to fast and the clutch plate and fly wheel have slammed together causing the engine to stop
2. You’ve brought the clutch up passed the bite point before releasing the handbrake
3. You haven’t got enough revs on the gas pedal to get the vehicle moving

Once you’re comfortable with the clutch you will rarely stall which will lead to you becoming a much more confident driver.

Kind Rgds,
Padraic

Alanstrainor

I never like the idea of telling people to rev the engine to a certain rpm. How the car will react is entirely dependant on the car in question. Diesel/petrol will handle completely differently, and 2k rpm could be way over kill.

J_R

Alanstrainor wrote: »

I never like the idea of telling people to rev the engine to a certain rpm. How the car will react is entirely dependant on the car in question. Diesel/petrol will handle completely differently, and 2k rpm could be way over kill.

+1

Also learners do not have the necessary skill to hold it steady. I found that they therefore spend far too much time focused on the rev counter.

Much better, "rev the engine to a nice happy sound", never mention the rev counter mightd only confuse. For doing a hill start, rev a little more.

when i switched cars during learning, i had trouble finding the new bite point
what worked for me was to find a quiet road, leave foot off the accelerator and practice the clutch going up til the car moves, then stop, then do it again
good few rounds of that and you'll be used to it

LDC ADI 34490

Alanstrainor wrote: »

I never like the idea of telling people to rev the engine to a certain rpm. How the car will react is entirely dependant on the car in question. Diesel/petrol will handle completely differently, and 2k rpm could be way over kill.

Correct, I should have mentioned this was for a petrol car. I'll edit.

Thanks,
Padraic

Alanstrainor

J_R wrote: »

+1

Also learners do not have the necessary skill to hold it steady. I found that they therefore spend far too much time focused on the rev counter.

Much better, "rev the engine to a nice happy sound", never mention the rev counter mightd only confuse. For doing a hill start, rev a little more.

Yup. When I was out accompanying my brother recently when he was learning hill starts. I'd just get him to rev more, and base it mostly on the sound of the engine rather than worrying about a rev counter. It allowed him to focus on his observation then.


Now, perhaps we're getting a bit too hung up on it, it was just a little point I noticed and decided to mention it. Some learners in the very beginning, like the idea of definite/absolute instruction, so there's no doubt in their mind. Only when they progress a little further will it make more sense, in this case, that the actual RPM isn't what matters.

gunnerman1100

Sorry if this is going a bit of topic but does anyone have any pointers for hill starts ? I cut out twice today at a set of traffic lights on hill (very slight hill at that) although I do think part of it was down to the guy behind because he was right behind me and I was more focused on not rolling back and hitting him instead of getting a good launch and it made me feel as if I was going to cut out all the time then I was moving off even when not on a hill.

Thanks

Red Crow

gunnerman1100 wrote: »

Sorry if this is going a bit of topic but does anyone have any pointers for hill starts ? I cut out twice today at a set of traffic lights on hill (very slight hill at that) although I do think part of it was down to the guy behind because he was right behind me and I was more focused on not rolling back and hitting him instead of getting a good launch and it made me feel as if I was going to cut out all the time then I was moving off even when not on a hill.

Thanks

Give it a little bit more power and don't release the handbrake until you know you're moving forward.

starlit

If you on a hill, give it more power/acceleration before dropping the handbrake. Holding onto biting point is important too. Try not to rush the clutch and not let handbrake go too soon or too late until you have a bit of acceleration/gas/power along with clutch at a certain point (biting point/point of contact). Be kind of ready to go though when safe whether at a junction, on a hill or at lights.

arleitiss

Me as learner, I got used to:

Downhill: Put on hanbrake, release brakes, hold clutch, when it's time to start moving I release handbrake car starts rolling forward and I gradually let clutch up then smoothly use accelerator (I tried once having handbrake on and biting point facing downhill, when I released handbrake car rushed forward way too fast).

Uphill: Unless I am sure it's a quick traffic light, I put handbrake on, when lights of others go amber I bring it to biting point, when it goes green I press handbrake (but dont let it down yet, just holding button) and use bit of accelerator then release handbrake and car goes forward no problem without even a slight rollback.

Even surface:
I just hold brakes or sometimes don't hold brakes when it's slow moving traffic, I just use biting point to move forward a bit only when car in front has moved at least 3 metres from me and I see traffic in front proceeding then I use accelerator.

I tried once this method of using gas then releasing clutch slowly, car rushed forward very fast nearly lost controll of it so I thought **** that way.

LDC ADI 34490

Alanstrainor wrote: »

Now, perhaps we're getting a bit too hung up on it, it was just a little point I noticed and decided to mention it. Some learners in the very beginning, like the idea of definite/absolute instruction, so there's no doubt in their mind. Only when they progress a little further will it make more sense, in this case, that the actual RPM isn't what matters.

Early in the learning process, many learner drivers are not able to distinguish the amount of revs necessary for moving off smoothly just by the noise of the engine and therefore absolute instruction is more beneficial. You may have to take the following factors into account when dealing with a complete beginner:

• many learner drivers are often afraid to give the car the necessary amount gas (the sound can be intimidating) as they sometimes fear the car will fly down the road like a formula one car
• the learner may be nervous and listening to the engine while also trying to remember everything else necessry with moving off smoothly can prove difficult
• there may be other noise elements in the surrounding area making it difficult to hear the engine

As the driver then becomes more accomplished and with more practice they will get an ear for the engine an automatically find themselves "listening to the engine" while moving off and changing gears.


But for a novice learner driver the above process is the one I use daily and I find it works perfectly.


Thanks,
Padraic