Help Scopetronic Homeguard Alarm

Call Pat

Hi There

Im Still in trouble with the Scopetronic Homeguard Alarm, i had a faulty PIR in the hall & replaced it, my problem is the hall PIR is close to the front door & when i set the alarm it goes off straight away before i get out. i tried 2 different setting Changes on Command 44 & command 46 i enter Zone 1 &* but it doesnt give me the C O Signal, It gives me C E instead & doesnt work, Any suggestions In what im Doing wrong Or Anything I can Do To Make it right. Thanks again.

Call Pat

KoolKid

Moved from manuals thread.

Have you opened the keypad tamper?

Call Pat

Hi Koolkid

Yes I Enter Engineer Code, Open Keypad at front door to release tamper switch, enter command 44, followed by 1 for zone 1 then *, i keep getting the C E Reply instead of the C O, i wonder why this is, its not allowing to change Any Commands?

Cheers Call Pat

KoolKid

Try hash insted of star and see does it remove the option.
Is it accepting other engineer commands or is everything giving CE.?
If so try opening the main control panel and using the keypad on that .

Call Pat

Hi Koolkid

Thanks for getting back to me. The control panel doesnt have a key pad on it, just a remote keypad at front door, i can try opening panel lid as well. I think im getting CE for all commands unfortunataly, i will try what your saying first anyways, alarm is setting & unsetting ok but not allowing me to get out the door with out alarm going off with PIR in hallway, Contact on Front Door letting Me Out Ok. Could i Move The PIR zone Onto The Exit Entry Zone If Nothing works.

Cheers Call Pat

KoolKid

If its not allowing any commands its like its not seeing the tamper open. Try open the panel tamper.
Also try 44* and 46 * to see will it display status.

Call Pat

Hi Koolkid

I will try all that you have said & see how we get on

Thanks again
Call Pat

Cork bhoy

Had a power cut recently and the quick set, 0#4 and 0#5 not working, anyone have a fix

KoolKid

Are you getting anything displaying when you press 0#4 ,0#5 or 0#7.
Does the keypad respond if you enter 0 and your code.?

Cork bhoy

panel stays blank when i put in 0 hash
4 or 5, the alarm sets with the no. but i cant get it to quick set,
Thanks

johnlambe

I have the same problem as Cork bhoy, after replacing the battery in a HomeGuard system.
Also, I don't have the engineer manual. (The installer didn't give us it, presumably to keep us dependent on him).

KoolKid, could you give me a copy of the engineer manual?

KoolKid

I PMed you that. Hope it helps.

GuilleDublin

Hello, I have an issue with my Scopetronic homeguard as well. Can I have the engineer manual too? Cheers!

KoolKid

PMed you that manual. I hope it helps.

Schuie

Hi. Could I trouble you for a manual too. I've an f2 fault.

ppn

I know this is an old thread but would anyone happen to have a manual for the scopetronic homeguard. We can only turn it on or off but don't know how to arm zones only like the external doors and windows only. Any help much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

kub

If it helps any, to part guard the good ol Homeguard it's 0#7.

ppn

Thanks, I must test this and see if it woeks. Cheers

The tax man

Sorry for bumping an oldish thread but I've run into some issues with this model of house alarm.

Apparently we had a few power cuts in the area today. I came home at lunch time to find the alarm had gone off at some stage, external alarm box was silent but internal siren was screaming. Disarmed via keypad, all good.
Came home this evening to find the same thing, external alarm silent but internal screaming.

This time however the keypad is completely unresponsive. System armed on display. Had to kill the power to the alarm to kill the internal siren but the external alarm was going off but not at full volume. Had to disconnect the battery to stop it completely.

I popped into the neighbors to ask if the power had gone off since lunch time and they said at least twice. I've checked the four fuses on the board with a multimeter and all are OK. I checked the battery and it's reading 10.24V
The alarm is 10+ years old and on the original batery, so would that reading be considered too low for a 12V battery in this system?

With the mains still off and the battery reconnected the external alarm starts to sound but the display on the keypad is fairly dim and pulsates in time to the alarm going off, when I switch the power back on the display comes back to normal but still unresponsive.

If the battery is weak, could it cause the keypad to stop working even with the mains back on or does it sound like the main board didn't like the multiple cuts in power?

Thanks!

KoolKid

Sounds like the panel could be done for. If the battery is disconnected the mains power should allow the keypad to operate the system.
Power it down completely & disconnect the external bell would be the best way to go.

The tax man

I had it disconnected from the mains and battery for a few hours. Out of curiosity I just fired up the mains and left the battery disconnected. Keypad came back to life and let me disarm the unit. I killed the mains and then stuck the battery back in and the keypad became unresponsive again so turned the mains back off. While the battery was under load I measured the voltage at 4.3V

Think I'll try a fresh battery and see what happens.

Thanks for the input KoolKid.

zefer

Just wondering did you get this back working.
Have same alarm and came home tonight to power cut. As soonas power came back on, outside sounder started going off but panel is completely unresponsive...

Anyone know how to get either the panel back responsive or how I disconnect the power? Do I just disconnect the blue, green, black and red cables? I can’t leave it the way it is as everytime someone opens the door, alarm starts beeping as if I’ve just set it!

Thanks

KoolKid

Best thing to do is open the panel & remove the mains fuse & disconnect the battery.
Before you do what type of bell box is outside the house?

zefer

Just a white box with no markings with blue light flashing to beeps of alarm when I open the door. Alarm now going off again outside as I left door open for more than 10 secs!!

Edit: Panel in toilet has a europlex sticker on front

KoolKid

OK
As long as the bell box isn't the old metal box its OK to power down.

zefer

KoolKid wrote: »

OK
As long as the bell box isn't the old metal box its OK to power down.

Took fuse out and everything turned off. No power to anything now. Have battery disconnected and going to see if I can get new one tomorrow somewhere!
Cheers for the help

KoolKid

Your welcome.
If you need anything come back to us.

liamo1979

KoolKid wrote: »

PMed you that manual. I hope it helps.

Hey there, could i get a copy of the installation manual too please. Just moved moved into a house with one of these alarms. Thanks

KoolKid

Unfortunately we are no longer allowed help you here with manuals.
Most good installers would be able to look after you with one though.

Lime Tree Farm

My alarm system is Scopetronic Homeguard, installed 1994. The installation company are no longer in business.

A fire alarm (Europlex smoke detector) is connected into the system, and is now chirping every few minutes or so.” The interface allows the smoke detector to operate from the control panel 12 volt supply and provides the control panel with an alarm indication via relay contacts.(Europlex literature)” I don’t know whether I have the older or the newer version

I see a replacement 6 A.H. battery for Scopetronic Homeguard control panel for sale online, approx. €12. If I knock off the electricity at the mains, is it possible for a lay person to replace this battery.

A home owner’s manual was supplied with the system in '94, but no Engineers' Manual.

Thanks in advance for any replies.

Lime Tree Farm

i switched off the main s suplly, and before I got to the control panel the alarm went off, I couldn't listen to it and switched the mains back on again. I had intended opening the control box to remove the battery.

roryhogan

Hi

I've no voltage at the External Bell terminal. The fuse is good. 12V at internal bell terminals.

Any help please?

A workaround would be to move the External to the Internal feed as I don't use the Internal bell because the dog gets upset.

Thanks for looking.

Rory

davidconroy46

If you meter out the 12v external bellbox on panel is it reading 12v? Disconnect the two wires going to bellbox before metering

altor

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118490840#Comment_118490840

You wont have 12V unless you trigger the output for the bell

10-10-20

Hi, that an old alarm at this stage! Does it show an error code when it goes off?

There was a way of going back through the previous errors, but I lost my engineer manual for Scopetronic about 15 years ago.

You may be encountering a "tamper" alarm, that's when a device such as a window or door contact is damaged, opened or removed and it causes the alarm to sound as a warning. As far as I recall, tampers were displayed as "tn" on the display where "n" is the zone number. See if you can get the code off the front when it sounds, that should help us.

10-10-20

Do you have an isolation switch near the alarm which looks like this? If so, that's the way to pull the power to the panel, but you'd also need to pull the 12v battery too. Just insert a flat-head screwdriver into that small slot and level the fuse part straight out.

As far as I recall, the external sounder (SABB ?) had a small battery pack which sounded for up to 20 mins in the event of a fault and would then sleep afterwards. So if you pulled both mains power and the 12v, and if the SABB battery was not dead, you could expect the external box to sound for up to 20 mins max, and then expire.

kub

Happy days, I must have installed hundreds of Homeguards back in the mid 90's

The solution here is simple, get your electrical friend around at a suitable time and get him to remove the mains fuse from inside the panel and disconnect the battery.

What will happen next is uncertain, by the description your external sounder is not sounding properly anyway so it may not be an issue, but whatever noise that makes, it will make it after the panel is powered down.

As for how long it sounds, that is a grey area as back then the standalone 20 min cutouts within external sounders were in their infancy so it's an unknown even if yours has this feature.

Eitherway it will stop eventually and if it is not sounding properly anyway , I cannot really see how anyone can complain about it

kub

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120485213#Comment_120485213

If I may.

If that system is going back to the mid 90's I would be very surprised if that SAB battery in your external siren is up to much anymore after all that time.

kub

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120485203#Comment_120485203

A faulty battery in a Homeguard panel will not as such cause the alarm to activate like that, you either have a tamper fault or a major issue with the actual panel

10-10-20

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120485213#Comment_120485213

They weren't usually too hard to access - they had one screw at the base and then flipped up, I think.

There was a battery cell with wires which could cut or disconnect. Cut one at a time from the battery.

kub

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120486372#Comment_120486372

On the ball, assuming here of course that it is the most popular model at that time, the CQR vertical box.

Yes as you described the screw is at the centre on the lower surface of the cover, remove same, fully.

Pull the lid from the bottom, then in the same movement lift at the top.

Cut as described above.

10-10-20

Yes there was a trickle-charge circuit on the alarm panel and the battery was a rechargeable 12v/7AH type, if I recall correctly.

kub

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120515785#Comment_120515785

It does indeed charge the battery as the previous poster mentioned.