Maybe an OEM O2 sensor for 00 Corolla [pic]

Hey guys,


I've used an obdII code reader to check what that annoying EML was all about. Here's a screen grab of the results:



So it seems like the first O2 sensor is faulty right? Google was my friend for that I'll admit....
What do you guys think? If it is a a new sensor that's needed, any advice on where to buy it?
I do feel up to changing it myself after seeing some instructional videos. Any and all help greatly appreciated as usual!

andyseadog

just putting it out there that EasyOBDII is great, it has to be the best "hobby price range" diagnostic tool out there.

you know you can go to "view live data" from the start-up page of EasyOBDII, then click on oxygen sensors, and (i'm open to correction but i'm fairly sure) when the engine is warm, the voltage for oxygen sensor 1 should always be alteranting between 0 and 1 volt. the numbers will be moving so quickly the readout cant display them fast enough but so long as its flashing numbers counting up to 1v and then back down to 0 then the sensor is ok, but if the numbers aren't moving etc then its fecked.

andyseadog

andyseadog wrote: »

just putting it out there that EasyOBDII is great, it has to be the best "hobby price range" diagnostic tool out there.

you know you can go to "view live data" from the start-up page of EasyOBDII, then click on oxygen sensors, and (i'm open to correction but i'm fairly sure) when the engine is warm, the voltage for oxygen sensor 1 should always be alteranting between 0 and 1 volt. the numbers will be moving so quickly the readout cant display them fast enough but so long as its flashing numbers counting up to 1v and then back down to 0 then the sensor is ok, but if the numbers aren't moving etc then its fecked.

I was messing around viewing the live data before I reset the error codes (to turn the check engine light off) and the sensor seemed to be functioning normally as you put it (voltage wise). I'll have a look again tomorrow and maybe make a video of the live recording if that would help any of the experts on here give a more accurate diagnosis?

Nissan doctor

The slow response fault is normal for Lambda's as they get older, normally over 100k ish depending on the car.

What year is the car? Toyota's don't take well to cheap after market sensors so try to get a genuine one or at least a Bosch or other good brand one.

If you looking at the live data, a properly working front lambda(b1s1) should be switching between approx 0.2v-0.8v around every 1 second.

Nissan doctor

Nissan doctor wrote: »

The slow response fault is normal for Lambda's as they get older, normally over 100k ish depending on the car.

What year is the car? Toyota's don't take well to cheap after market sensors so try to get a genuine one or at least a Bosch or other good brand one.

If you looking at the live data, a properly working front lambda(b1s1) should be switching between approx 0.2v-0.8v around every 1 second.

It's 00 Corolla, so it's pretty old I guess. It's only got 73,000 on it but it was barely used by it's previous owner and I'm fairly sure it was sitting idle it's last year before I bought it from them. They had just done some stuff to it though to put it through the NCT so they could sell it.

Any recommendations on where to get the part? I'm just about to re check the live data.

Thanks again for all the advice!

Tomk1

I think it trys to keep it about 0.5 average, an average above means rich, average below means lean or the other way around.

Note of caution the OBDII only assists in helping to diagnose a fault, no harm in changing it, but could be a number of other things even like a small hole in the exhaust manifold messing up the fuel-ratio exhaust emission, prob best to change it, could allways swap 1&2 but hardly worth the effort. Once cleared it can take a while for the ECU to see the fault, so take the car for a spin before congratulating yourself.

Saw on YT where you can test the 02 sensor by putting it into a burner gas flame.

And now for the most exciting videos of all time, the Oxegen sensor data videos!


While sitting idle and cold.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLiSU1be8d4

While sitting idle and warm.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DhnOvn-lds

While being revved to 3-4k.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlhBvfpB0RU

This is a different video of the revs fluctuating up and down despite throttle being held at a consistent %. After about 30 seconds in on the vid, I manage hold it at 12.9% and it fluctuates quite a bit, is this related to the faulty O2 sensor?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKClMbVYqrI

Thanks for any and all input!!

Apologies for the bump, just wondering what the opinions are on the vids above and where people would recommend I buy the sensor from?

Nissan doctor

Looks like more of a problem then a lambda issue unfortunately.

On warm idle, Your S1 is switching, although very slowly, hence the fault you have. But S2 is fluctuating more then it should be, indicating a Cat issue.

On the 3-4k video, S1 is reading very low, only once, for a brief second reading over 0.45. It should be averaging 0.45. This points to a very lean fuel mix so possibly a throttle body/idle control issue or a vacuum leak. It is possible that the sensor itself is also faulty but the fact that it seems to read ok at idle(voltage wise) would suggest this is not the case. Although the slow switching displayed at idle is enough to require changing.

Also at the higher RPM, S2 is switching almost fully, confirming that the cat is not functioning properly.


Hope that helps a little.

Thanks for taking the time to give your expertise doc! I really appreciate it!

Looks like it's bad news then... hopefully it's a blocked cat rather than a faulty one, though that's me hoping rather than making an educated guess. I genuinely don't know enough to do that. I'll have to get it looked at somewhere, but it sounds like this could end up being expensive for me...

Nissan doctor

Sacramento wrote: »

Thanks for taking the time to give your expertise doc! I really appreciate it!

Looks like it's bad news then... hopefully it's a blocked cat rather than a faulty one, though that's me hoping rather than making an educated guess. I genuinely don't know enough to do that. I'll have to get it looked at somewhere, but it sounds like this could end up being expensive for me...

A blocked cat would be causing major power issues. If it was partially blocked but still otherwise perfect(almost impossible) then the second lambda would still be reading correctly.

I want to give an update on this as it's seldom enough people receive advice on here and then actually give an update as to whether it solved/helped the issue or not. First of all thank you to the Nissan doctor for looking at all the stuff I put up, HUGELY appreciated.

So what happened after this? I reset the error codes and check engine light, I figured I'd let it try and go through the NCT and they'd tell me what was wrong, or at least give an indication. If the emissions were off due to a bad CAT, I figured it would surely show. Since I reset the light when I opened this thread, it never came back on and it also passed the NCT with flying colours!

Low idle (720rpm) = CO 0.00 col%, HC 22 ppm

High idle (2850 rpm) = Lambda: 1.02, CO 0.00%, HC 24 ppm

The guy that tested my car came to me after and said:

"I really like the way you have taken care of your car, it's excellent!"

I said "Oh yeah? Do you like the car?"

He says: "No, but I like how you take care of it!!"


Still, chuffed.

Thanks again everyone who helped!