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Engine flush

  • 22-07-2012 11:40am
    #1
    lfbmick
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 101 ✭✭


    Hi,i need to perform engine flush.What is the best stuff to use?


Comments

  • #2
    George Dalton
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,728 ✭✭✭George Dalton


    What car and engine?


  • #3
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    I think they are a bad idea. Engines develop deposits that actually help them to run well.
    Flush them out of an engine especially an older one and you are just asking for trouble IMO.


  • #4
    lfbmick
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 101 ✭✭lfbmick


    Its mazda 6 1.8 petrol 2005 .When starting engine after longer stay,its rattling for second or two.So could be that oil not getting up fast enough.

    I thinking to flush engine to get rid possible blockage.

    Is that very bad idea?


  • #5
    George Dalton
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,728 ✭✭✭George Dalton


    I wouldnt advise it.


  • #6
    lfbmick
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 101 ✭✭lfbmick


    George Dalton wrote: »
    I wouldnt advise it.

    Can you tell my why?I was thinking about liquid that added to oil, then run engine for hour and drained , new oil added.

    Can that cause more damage than good?


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  • #7
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 23,339 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    lfbmick wrote: »
    Can you tell my why?I was thinking about liquid that added to oil, then run engine for hour and drained , new oil added.

    Can that cause more damage than good?

    An hour :eek:
    Flushes aren't meant to be in there that long.

    If i was you I'd change the oil with an oil of the correct spec that specifies it's for both petrol and diesel engines and drop that out again after 3000 miles.

    Or put in diesel engine oil of the correct spec for 1000 miles if you can get it.

    I've done that on a few cars with 10w40 as it's easy and cheap to get. A 2005 1.8 Mazda 6 is worth a tad more than the yokes I've done it to admittedly.

    The diesel engine oil is a slow and gentle enough flush.


  • #8
    Nissan doctor
    Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    As per PM's, it may work in your situation if done correctly, but only if your sure that the timing chain change was done correctly, i.e new guides/sprockets etc and that the sump/oil pick up is clean and clear as suggested.


  • #9
    lfbmick
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 101 ✭✭lfbmick


    RoverJames wrote: »
    An hour :eek:
    Flushes aren't meant to be in there that long.

    If i was you I'd change the oil with an oil of the correct spec that specifies it's for both petrol and diesel engines and drop that out again after 3000 miles.

    Or put in diesel engine oil of the correct spec for 1000 miles if you can get it.

    I've done that on a few cars with 10w40 as it's easy and cheap to get. A 2005 1.8 Mazda 6 is worth a tad more than the yokes I've done it to admittedly.

    The diesel engine oil is a slow and gentle enough flush.

    Oil was changed 2 times.Engine was rattling so mechanic change fully sintetic oil with 10w40 semi sintetic hoping that rattle disappears.Din't work.Find out that that engine chain rattling and needs replacement.That's been done and correct 5w30 oil added. All this was done in months period.

    But now engine rattles when starting for 1 -2 sec and no sounds after that.And some times oil pressure indicator flashes for 1 - 2 sec when starting.


  • #10
    lfbmick
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 101 ✭✭lfbmick


    Nissan doctor wrote: »
    As per PM's, it may work in your situation if done correctly, but only if your sure that the timing chain change was done correctly, i.e new guides/sprockets etc.

    That's why I asking what engine cleaner to use.I have my doubts about timing chain change.But how i can check that?

    Timing chain hydraulic tensioners rattles on these models.Guy who did job told me that he change all timing chain kit.


  • #11
    Nissan doctor
    Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    lfbmick wrote: »
    That's why I asking what engine cleaner to use.I have my doubts about timing chain change.But how i can check that?

    Timing chain hydraulic tensioners rattles on these models.Guy who did job told me that he change all timing chain kit.


    Well you have my opinion on that, based solely on the price you where charged.


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  • #12
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 23,339 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    lfbmick wrote: »
    Oil was changed 2 times.Engine was rattling so mechanic change fully sintetic oil with 10w40 semi sintetic hoping that rattle disappears.Din't work.Find out that that engine chain rattling and needs replacement.That's been done and correct 5w30 oil added. All this was done in months period.

    But now engine rattles when starting for 1 -2 sec and no sounds after that.And some times oil pressure indicator flashes for 1 - 2 sec when starting.
    RoverJames wrote: »
    An hour :eek:
    Flushes aren't meant to be in there that long.

    If i was you I'd change the oil with an oil of the correct spec that specifies it's for both petrol and diesel engines and drop that out again after 3000 miles.

    Or put in diesel engine oil of the correct spec for 1000 miles if you can get it.

    I've done that on a few cars with 10w40 as it's easy and cheap to get. A 2005 1.8 Mazda 6 is worth a tad more than the yokes I've done it to admittedly.

    The diesel engine oil is a slow and gentle enough flush.

    ;)

    Anyway, it seems from you timing chain posts that a flush won't sort it anyway.


  • #13
    lfbmick
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 101 ✭✭lfbmick


    Nissan doctor wrote: »
    Well you have my opinion on that, based solely on the price you where charged.

    Appreciate your opinion,that's why I have doubts now.I know the guy who runs that garage and he knows me.Anyway i need to deal with problem some how. What engine flush is the best for the job?

    One think to add,yesterday i checked valve cover and gasket there wasn't changed, just silicon applied to old one. Now i thinking maybe silicon got to the engine and causing that.....


  • #14
    Nissan doctor
    Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    lfbmick wrote: »
    Appreciate your opinion,that's why I have doubts now.I know the guy who runs that garage and he knows me.Anyway i need to deal with problem some how. What engine flush is the best for the job?

    One think to add,yesterday i checked valve cover and gasket there wasn't changed, just silicon applied to old one. Now i thinking maybe silicon got to the engine and causing that.....

    That just adds weight to the question over the timing chain job. You where charged less the a timing belt change on a basic engine for a timing chain replacement(parts and labour if I read your PM right) which is why I can't see how they changed the chain/tensioner/guides/sprockets for that, especially as, as far as I know, the parts have to come from Mazda.


  • #15
    lfbmick
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 101 ✭✭lfbmick


    Nissan doctor wrote: »
    That just adds weight to the question over the timing chain job. You where charged less the a timing belt change on a basic engine for a timing chain replacement(parts and labour if I read your PM right) which is why I can't see how they changed the chain/tensioner/guides/sprockets for that, especially as, as far as I know, the parts have to come from Mazda.

    Yes you read right.Cost me 290 all in all.Timing chain kit was used from ford.Mazda and ford sharing the same engine.

    Mazda dealer was looking for 700 euro for timing chain kit.


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