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Bale pressure settings for silage

  • 12-07-2012 4:47pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 574 ✭✭✭


    Was talking to a neighbouring farmer about balers and we got talking about the bale density settings. I have a baler and it only does 30-50 acres a year for ourselves and always bale at 100% density.

    Neighbour thinks you should hold back a bit to around 85%.

    So I would like to ask those of ye that own balers what density setting do ye bale at?

    For me if it cant handle 30 acres a year at 100% there is something wrong ;)

    Obviously contractors always bale at 100% :D


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,326 ✭✭✭Farmer Pudsey


    Obviously contractors always bale at 100% :D

    Lad at work was telling me he was getting this contractor for the last 5 years since he took over the farm. He never grazes the land in spring it is old pasture. This contractor was the cheapes around by a bit old baler seperate wrapper was getting 18-20 bales to the acre even after a good wilt.

    This year as they were under pressure he got another contractor with a Mchale combi it is about 2 years old he cut it in late june like he always try's not much of a wilt he got 16 bale's to the acre

    He reckons cheapest is not always the least expensive.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,726 ✭✭✭maidhc


    I would normally aim for 120%! Keep going until something breaks, then slacken back slightly from then on. :)

    Only joking, but the slip clutch/shearbolt is there for a reason.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 157 ✭✭flat out !!


    Only joking, but the slip clutch/shearbolt is there for a reason.[/QUOTE]

    slip clutch will really only protect against blockages, it wont protect the roller bearings. If there is too much pressure on them. I'd agree wit ur neighbour, ease it back a bit, especially wit chopped wet bales. Some of them could weigh 850kg.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,085 ✭✭✭bogman_bass


    maidhc wrote: »
    I would normally aim for 120%! Keep going until something breaks, then slacken back slightly from then on. :)

    Only joking, but the slip clutch/shearbolt is there for a reason.

    yes but that reason isnt so you can push the machine to the edge of what it can do


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 574 ✭✭✭ZETOR_IS_BETTER


    I'd agree wit ur neighbour, ease it back a bit, especially wit chopped wet bales. Some of them could weigh 850kg.

    I would agree with you easing back on wet stuff, would you hold back too on a machine that does only 500 bales of silage a season with nice dry stuff?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,087 ✭✭✭vanderbadger


    my baler can be set from 1 to 10 with 10 being the highest density setting, i always leave it at 6, what the point of putting the machine under pressure? at six it makes grand bales. often wonder what the contractor s balers are set to ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 157 ✭✭flat out !!


    I would agree with you easing back on wet stuff, would you hold back too on a machine that does only 500 bales of silage a season with nice dry stuff?

    well personally myself i would, maybe its because of my days with a class 250 and all the bearings that i had to change on it. Have a new Mchale now, and i dont mind letting letting the pressure guage go into the red a bit, But still wouldn't over do it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,726 ✭✭✭maidhc


    slip clutch will really only protect against blockages, it wont protect the roller bearings. If there is too much pressure on them. I'd agree wit ur neighbour, ease it back a bit, especially wit chopped wet bales. Some of them could weigh 850kg.

    Roller bearings will be the last things to go. Most likely is snapped chains and damaged shaft ends. Gearbox might let loose as well.

    If I was a contractor I would definately hold back, but when you are doing your own stuff then I see no reason to. If the machine is properly maintained and you are not doing huge volumes then it will be fine.

    The bale setting stuff is largely irrelevant as what might be 6 on one baler can be 10 on the other depending on how the hooks/sensors are adjusted, and even the swarth going in.

    You will know from the bale, if it is hard right to the centre, has nice shoulders and is still round after a few days all is well. If your bale looks like blancmange, you have an issue!


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