What farm shed to put up

kincaid

I was looking to put up a shed 60 by 20 for storing my tractors and farm machinery, was thinking of building blocks but was told the sectional steel sheds from H2 engineering for example would be cheaper( 4500 euro including roller door etc) and a better job but these look a bit weak to me and not sure....

what do others on here think?

lab man

can you give a link kincaid

brian_t

lab man wrote: »

can you give a link kincaid

I presume it's here http://www.h2engineering.ie/workshops.asp

lakill Farm

cost of a 47x 20ft shed (stand alone lean to (12ft at front - 10ft at back)

Shed € 2400 plus vat ( all rsj, timbers screws and bolts and roof sheetind and 5ft sheet back and 2 sides) I priced all the materials after i received and could buy all for € 300 less)

Blocks € 463 760 x 6" blocks for walls

Floor € 900 6" of cement in the floor (50ft x 22ft) I made in pan mixer

Labour € 600 (lad helped to put in floor and did all blocks)

Sundry €250 (bolts to bolt shed to floor, cement for walls, and few other little things

Total 4613 plus vat for 3 bay

Total 6150 plus vat for 4 bay based on my prices

(price doesnt include a door yet)

Vat is refundable on new farm building

kboc

lakill Farm wrote: »

cost of a 47x 20ft shed (stand alone lean to (12ft at front - 10ft at back)

Shed € 2400 plus vat ( all rsj, timbers screws and bolts and roof sheetind and 5ft sheet back and 2 sides) I priced all the materials after i received and could buy all for € 300 less)

Blocks € 463 760 x 6" blocks for walls

Floor € 900 6" of cement in the floor (50ft x 22ft) I made in pan mixer

Labour € 600 (lad helped to put in floor and did all blocks)

Sundry €250 (bolts to bolt shed to floor, cement for walls, and few other little things

Total 4613 plus vat for 3 bay

Total 6150 plus vat for 4 bay based on my prices

(price doesnt include a door yet)

Vat is refundable on new farm building

Do you have a picture of your shed? Sounds like a great shed for that money.

Thanks
K

lakill Farm

kboc wrote: »

Do you have a picture of your shed? Sounds like a great shed for that money.

Thanks
K

I have photos from each stage, but ill have to set up a photo account and upload them here. Will do asap. Hope to put the roof sheets on next dry and wind free day. Purlins are all up already

reilig

lakill Farm wrote: »

I have photos from each stage, but ill have to set up a photo account and upload them here. Will do asap. Hope to put the roof sheets on next dry and wind free day. Purlins are all up already

You can upload your pics from your computer to your user control panel (user cp top left of page). Then you can link them to your posts and they will be automatically be visible on your post!

kincaid

I spoke to a few guys who told me not to bother with the sectional type steel sheds as construction of light steel and light cladding and are poor overall,
A Shed build with all blocks 60 by 25 is what i think il go for now as will last alot longer and put up with more abuse

1chippy

A decent roller door will cost 1500. I mean decent there is a few you can get a lot cheaper but you would be aswell use tin foil. steel is pretty dear and say 10 uprights at 12' @ roughly e7 a foot comes to 840 then 10 steel rafters at 12' comes to another 840. Then 40 timbers @ aprox e14 comes to 560. Allow say 150 for fixings . it doesnt allow much for sheeting and all the bells and whistles let alone welding, concrete and work. They have to be using seriously cheap materials and that really only means one thing. Pay for the right shed once. even if it does mean another winter with machines outside. You will be happier in the long run.

Figerty

Blocks would be the better option. One good reason in particular. A local plant company has a shed sheeted with galvanise. The have been robbed a number of times. About 2 years ago they spotted that one sheet was hanging on by a couple of nails in preparation for the next raid.

kincaid wrote: »

I spoke to a few guys who told me not to bother with the sectional type steel sheds as construction of light steel and light cladding and are poor overall,
A Shed build with all blocks 60 by 25 is what i think il go for now as will last alot longer and put up with more abuse

kincaid

ok a few people told me to build with blocks up to about 5-6 ft then steel uprights, etc and then galvanise sheets for sides and roof while a few builders told me to build it totally with blocks and then timber and corrugated galvanise sheets for roof.
Hard to know which would be the best and work out cheapest..

Bizzum

kincaid wrote: »

Hard to know which would be the best and work out cheapest..

Ultimately it depends upon the exact use you have in mind for the shed, both now and in the future. Not a thing wrong with sheeted sides for machinery storage. If you ever intended for example tipping a load of turf then a block wall (on the flat) would be the job.
If you have the ability, time and inclination to throw up the blocks yourself they are not the dearest item in the world!

kincaid

thanks for that, i wonder if the block one would work out cheaper

Good loser

If you're using it for machinery a mass concrete wall would be better - say 8 ft high and 9 inch thick. Sheet down to top of wall.

Diesel Dick

going to be building a shed myself soon, 30x45 stand alone lean and also trying to figure out the best but cheapest way to build will most likely be going for 8x4'' beams and mass conrete walls for strength and piece of mind but not sure weather too bury the beams or bolt them to the slab, what are peoples thoughts on that aspect of building sheds?

iverjohnston

Can a stand alone shed be a lean-to?
Nigel in Cavan

Diesel Dick

iverjohnston wrote: »

Can a stand alone shed be a lean-to?
Nigel in Cavan

half A roof so :P i dunno what to call it? ha

Manoffeeling

Good loser wrote: »

If you're using it for machinery a mass concrete wall would be better - say 8 ft high and 9 inch thick. Sheet down to top of wall.

Are 6 inch on their flat any good for a machinery or sheep shed? That's what I have in mind. I can work at my own pace, cheaper and am good at block work.
( so they tell me !!!! )

kevthegaff

Manoffeeling wrote: »

Are 6 inch on their flat any good for a machinery or sheep shed? That's what I have in mind. I can work at my own pace, cheaper and am good at block work.
( so they tell me !!!! )

i have calf sheds two lean twos facing each other where you can drive up in between them, built 35 yrs ago with cavity blocks, the timbers need to be replaced but other than that perfect, i cant see why not

Manoffeeling

kevthegaff wrote: »

i have calf sheds two lean twos facing each other where you can drive up in between them, built 35 yrs ago with cavity blocks, the timbers need to be replaced but other than that perfect, i cant see why not

6 inch on the flat it is. People can go overboard. I was thinking of making my own pans 16 by 8 and filling 1 a day. Only 8 sheets of marine ply and angle iron. Fill with the front loader. The blocks on the flat might be as good though.

kevthegaff

its gas lads have paid a fortune doin big fancy jobs, but theres always a way of building a nice shed cheaper!

J DEERE

kevthegaff wrote: »

its gas lads have paid a fortune doin big fancy jobs, but theres always a way of building a nice shed cheaper!

+1

We done a big enough job back in 2005 when the grants were going strong. Doing everything to grant spec, the job was going to cost us 25,000 (40,000 total with 15,000 grant). That was the best price we got. We decided to go our own way with it and didnt bother applying for the grant at all. Got the job done for 14,000 in the end. We done a lot of the work ourselves but made sure we put in enough steel and concrete to make sure it would last. The guy who put in our tank has been at them for thirty years and he said the amount of steel and concrete wasted getting everything up to grant spec was shocking. Have another big job to do soon, will be going the same way about it

kincaid

Good loser wrote: »

If you're using it for machinery a mass concrete wall would be better - say 8 ft high and 9 inch thick. Sheet down to top of wall.

mass concrete would probably be the better job but would be more expensive i think.

i priced in my local area the price of 6" solid blocks and the cheapest quote i could get was €780 per 1000 plus vat, i honestly thought blocks were cheaper( someone mentioned using cavity blocks are these better value).
The same guy for a 6" base of concrete for 60' x 20' is charging 1550 plus vat,

bob charles

J DEERE wrote: »

+1

We done a big enough job back in 2005 when the grants were going strong. Doing everything to grant spec, the job was going to cost us 25,000 (40,000 total with 15,000 grant). That was the best price we got. We decided to go our own way with it and didnt bother applying for the grant at all. Got the job done for 14,000 in the end. We done a lot of the work ourselves but made sure we put in enough steel and concrete to make sure it would last. The guy who put in our tank has been at them for thirty years and he said the amount of steel and concrete wasted getting everything up to grant spec was shocking. Have another big job to do soon, will be going the same way about it

just be careful, as you maybe in trouble if you need to get an underground tank certified by an engineer at a later date. Tanks not to dept spec will find it very hard to comply if push comes to shove, Nowadays I wouldn't dream of putting in an underground tank without having an engineer sign off on it. Bitter experience

Good loser

Manoffeeling wrote: »

Are 6 inch on their flat any good for a machinery or sheep shed? That's what I have in mind. I can work at my own pace, cheaper and am good at block work.
( so they tell me !!!! )

They should be okay. It's just the mass concrete will be stronger if hit by machinery. Don't think there is much difference in cost between mass conc and blocks IF you were paying for laying blocks and rendering both sides.

Good loser

Diesel Dick wrote: »

half A roof so :P i dunno what to call it? ha

Call it a single pitch roof?