Massey Ferguson 165 engine seized

Go2Guy

Hi all
The engine seized in my 165 last week. It had plenty of oil and was running fine when I pulled the stopper. When I tried to start it a few minutes later, it was jammed solid. So I've taken off the panels, tanks, pumps electrics, injectors etc. I tried turning the flywheel with a nail bar and its jammed.
I'm thinking if I take the engine out, look at it top and bottom and replace damaged parts or get the shaft reground (or whatever is needed) it should go back together ok.
I'm not an expert at this and will be getting some help on it but does anyone have any ideas on where I should go or what route I should take? Also...any ideas on why it seized? The oil pump I presume packed in but again I'm no expert.
Thanks for reading and if you've any info let me know.
G

pakalasa

Sounds like a huge project if you don't know what you are doing.
You could start by taking off the rocker arm cover and see if it dropped a valve. It dosen't sound like it though, by what you are saying.
Brave man !!!!:D

cormywormy

I had the same pleasure with a siezed engine in my massey 390 last year. First of all get the head of the tractor and see what is up. Did it drop a valve or crack a ring and smash it into the head. You will have to find out why it seized first ......did it overheat( broken head gasket), loose oil pressure(oil pump go-no oil to top end of engine.) . Then a fully rebuilt exchange engine will be about 2000 to 2500 depending. You might get away with a set of pistons, liners, and rings. Then machine the head. To get it goin again depending what went wrong you could spend up to 1000.

Send me a pm if you want for more info or if you want to sell the tractor as is.

pakalasa

I think the problem with tackling a project like this is deciding what needs to be replaced. You can take the engine apart very carefully, photograph everything, mark pistons, conrods etc for orientation and location, but you will be standing there with a part in your hand wondering should I replace it or not. That's where the experience comes in. There are also clearances, troques etc to take intp account, so you will need a good shop manual.
I've only partly help strip an engine but I have worked on the rebuild of large industrial machines and it was the 50/50 decisions that I found the hardest. Labour is the big thing in a project like this so I would replace all seals and bearings as a rule.

Go2Guy

Took the head off last night, it was all good. Then I took the sump off and it was very clear. It was seized on the rod bearing of the front shaft...twas bone dry. So the plan now is to whip out the engine, bring the shaft to be reground and get the new bearings to go with it. I have a guy who will hone out the liners and I'll put a new set of rings and head gasket on while I'm at it.
She's a really good tractor otherwise...starts on the button all year round and has wide tyres on the back. I've a quicke power loader with a bucket and a grab too ...this is why I didn't just sell her off with the engine seized...I'd never get what she's worth.
I hope to have the parts sourced and the shaft reground this weekend and then start putting it all back together at night next week.
Do ye think the pump caused this? I would have expected her to dry out on top first if she stopped pumping oil around...

pakalasa

Is the 'Oil Pressure' light working? You could have a blocked oil way.

Have a look at this video. It explains how wear in the bearings can lead to low oil pressure from excessive leaking. Maybe (and I'm only suggesting) that this is what happened in your case. There was not enough oil pressure to drive the oil down to the end of the crankshaft.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8f2fcbTh5yw&feature=related

Go2Guy

Cheers for the video...he fairly spells it out!
On closer inspection, the damage to the crankshaft was actually just the white metal of the bearing. I went at it with emry paper last night and polished it up like new. I'm going to get an expert to measure the journal to see if I can just put new rod bearings back in and put her back together. I whipped off a few of the main bearings and they were all mint. All the original perkins parts too! I have a potential replacement engine and also my expert is pricing a full rebuild so I'll look into the 3 options.

Go2Guy

I got so distracted with the work I forgot to post up my progress!
The emry paper was a joke! I got the shaft reground, new bearings and rings. All seals and gaskets were replaced too. I did ALL the heavy stuff myself and the mechanic who was helping me had the torque wrench and all other required expertise. So I put it all back together, charged the battery overnight and he came back to me the following night and we had it running in about 1.5 minutes, I couldn't believe it. Now I had pumped the diesel across and made sure I had as much right as possible but in any case, I think that was quick! The total cost of parts, repairs, coolant and oil (engine, steering, gearbox/back axle) came to €580. Add on a €100 voucher as a gift for the mechanic and the fact that I am forever indebted to my neighbour for the use of his shed and tools.
I sold it last week for €400 more than I paid so my losses aren't too severe! I also still have the quicke loader for sale which should bring a reasonable price since it has a good bucket and grab.
Anyway, if I could just figure out how to attach pics to a post I'd throw some on.
Thanks for ye're input,
G