pipe welding course ireland

aidanki

all,

im leanrning to weld in my own time, I did the 1 night a week course a few years ago in FAS and I suppose with my own practice Im at intermediate level now

im quite good at flat welding welding two pieces of steel together
not too bad at uphill either

things im not so good at- when I hit a soft patch in the steel being able to keep a consistently good weld, im ****e in fact when this happens, I need some instructoin on what Im doing wrong hence Im wondering about a course?

Im trying to well 4mm walled 6” pipe in a single pass I would be using 110-120amps DCEN (using a Kuhtreiber inverter with 6013 3.2mm electrode, electrode connected to negative)

Wedling this pipe uphill and hiting a soft patch is a bitch, I can see the weld puddle digging into the steel and all of a sudden you have molten steel mixing with weld and slag, impossible to control what do the pros do to avoid this, I have tried speeding up and as soon as I hit a soft patch increase my travel speed with limited success, limited success being not blowing a hole in the pipe

Whenever I hear that tell tale crackling sound of a hole not far from being burnt in the pipe I jump forward an inch without breaking the arc and continue on, when cooled down I go back and try again is this the right approach……..

Tried turning the rod at an angle, the idea being larger surface area of rod burning with the same current meaning less heat.

Tried turning down the amps, shortening the arc, it kinda works but then you hit good steel again and you say to yourself I need a bit more here…….. I must be doing something wrong…….

Be nice to be able to weld light stuff 2-3mm steel together without making holes in it too

A couse I hope would get me to advanced level, give me some proper instruction on what im doing wrong

Anywhere in Ireland that does say an intensive course for 2weeks? Burn a box of rods everyday would surely learn something espicallly with an instructor telling you what your doing wrong

fear tuath

Do a route and cap weld.Use 2.5 rods with a 2mm gap between the pipes,low heat and cap then with a 3.2.Pipes must be cut straight and only practice makes perfect.

aidanki

fear tuath wrote: »

Do a route and cap weld.Use 2.5 rods with a 2mm gap between the pipes,low heat and cap then with a 3.2.Pipes must be cut straight and only practice makes perfect.

Is that how you would do them in the real world ?

or would you do a single pass with a 3.2mm

pakalasa

I'm not trained or anything,mainly learned from experience but I noticed that the heat is generated straight out from the tip of the rod. Obvious, I know, but if you are welding a light to heavy piece, tilt the rod pointing more towards the heavy piece. That will stop the light piece melting. If you find it melting too much, then tilt even more, if you know what I mean.
Keep the rods in the hot-press too. It will keep them dry.

kylemore56

fear tuath wrote: »

Do a route and cap weld.Use 2.5 rods with a 2mm gap between the pipes,low heat and cap then with a 3.2.Pipes must be cut straight and only practice makes perfect.

I would agree you should try this way!
ps i,m a time served welder and after 25 years i,m still learning wee tricks so a two week course your only going to learn a little bit:(

bob charles

smaller rods and lower heat. its much easier to correct your mistakes with low heat. When you get experience then you will be throwing the mag up to 200amps and going like **** of a shovel

aidanki

kylemore56 wrote: »

I would agree you should try this way!
ps i,m a time served welder and after 25 years i,m still learning wee tricks so a two week course your only going to learn a little bit:(

farm repairs etc is why I want to learn to weld

would you typically do route and cap for this type of a join for farm repairs?

say I was welding a cattle crush together what method would you use

step 1=grind back the galvanised
step 2 =notch the pipes to ensure a good fitup

please advise on the rest.....

kay 9

aidanki wrote: »

farm repairs etc is why I want to learn to weld

would you typically do route and cap for this type of a join for farm repairs?

say I was welding a cattle crush together what method would you use

step 1=grind back the galvanised
step 2 =notch the pipes to ensure a good fitup

please advise on the rest.....

In most farm welding, one pass will usually suffice, but as a coded welder with quite a bit of experience, i recently repaired a crush at home place and i did a root just to be sure out of habit more than anything. It doesn't matter what the root looks like so long as it's well burnt in and make sure all the slag is cleared before the cap/caps (layering) if ya want perfection. If you're welding hitches or towbars then definitely a root then fill then cap. Hope that helps

fastrac94

is there anywhere in mayo galway area
doing welding courses now or in the future or whats the procedure in becomming a coded welder ?????

kylemore56

kay 9 wrote: »

In most farm welding, one pass will usually suffice, but as a coded welder with quite a bit of experience, i recently repaired a crush at home place and i did a root just to be sure out of habit more than anything. It doesn't matter what the root looks like so long as it's well burnt in and make sure all the slag is cleared before the cap/caps (layering) if ya want perfection. If you're welding hitches or towbars then definitely a root then fill then cap. Hope that helps

One thing i,m crap at is trying to write down what i mean, i,ve taught people to weld to asme9 standard from plumber,s to welder but i can show you but not tell you how but the above is one of the best way,s
Billy

kylemore56

one of the best practise ways is a root,then a hot pass then a cap weld!!

kylemore56

I,m sorry ,Always grind any galvo off whatever you are welding as galvo poisoning is not nice as i,ve experienced:mad:

cj maxx

im practising welding at home, basically just to be able to do repairs and make up bits and pieces ( especially gates ) so this is interesting to read . i just wanted to clarify something , is a root weld where you bevel the edge of each piece ( a v when butted) , weld the bottom of the vee the and and is the 'cap' when you fill the rest . would be interested in a intensive course if you find one op. cheers

pakalasa

Types of Butt Joints.

I'd normally go with the 'Double V' type where I can and weld from both sides. The molten metal stays in the V then as you weld. Keep it easy and simple.;)

aidanki

kay 9 wrote: »

In most farm welding, one pass will usually suffice, but as a coded welder with quite a bit of experience, i recently repaired a crush at home place and i did a root just to be sure out of habit more than anything. It doesn't matter what the root looks like so long as it's well burnt in and make sure all the slag is cleared before the cap/caps (layering) if ya want perfection. If you're welding hitches or towbars then definitely a root then fill then cap. Hope that helps

that crush you repaired was made of 1.5" galvanised piping I guess?

how did you prep the pipes to be able to do root and cap

aidanki

some pics hoping for constructive criticism

kylemore56

It,s ****e!:D

kylemore56

Try welding down hand if it,s thin material, some rods are better than others for this

bob charles

your trying to learn how to weld end of life piping together, ffs go buy so new pipe and them try and learn on that as it will be much easier to get the hang of things. Then when your good at that you can weld that sh*te together

pakalasa

Ya, very hard to weld old metal like that. Start at the beginning and practice on good heavy bits and on the flat.

kay 9

aidanki wrote: »

that crush you repaired was made of 1.5" galvanised piping I guess?

how did you prep the pipes to be able to do root and cap

To be honest I didn't do much preparing as it's an old crush and I used some left-over gb pipe from work:D Most I did was grind it to the contour of the posts, tacked everything, rooted and capped all then. There will be no one x-raying a crush so it doesn't matter so long as it's structurally sound;) By the looks of them pics, you're either going too slow or have the amps too high. Best off taking your time on lower amps and working on technique. If you're doing alot of farm welding I'd also advise you get a mig machine instead.

aidanki

bob charles wrote: »

your trying to learn how to weld end of life piping together, ffs go buy so new pipe and them try and learn on that as it will be much easier to get the hang of things. Then when your good at that you can weld that sh*te together

have no bother what so ever on the flat so thought I would step things up a notch

aidanki

kay 9 wrote: »

To be honest I didn't do much preparing as it's an old crush and I used some left-over gb pipe from work:D Most I did was grind it to the contour of the posts, tacked everything, rooted and capped all then. There will be no one x-raying a crush so it doesn't matter so long as it's structurally sound;) By the looks of them pics, you're either going too slow or have the amps too high. Best off taking your time on lower amps and working on technique. If you're doing alot of farm welding I'd also advise you get a mig machine instead.

amps were at 90 amps DC I suppose, wouldn't have thought that too high for 4mm pipe

amwd

pakalasa wrote: »

Ya, very hard to weld old metal like that. Start at the beginning and practice on good heavy bits and on the flat.

As was said start to practice on flat and get that very right first,forget pipe for now.
You must practice alot to be any good.
I am a coded welder.
Good luck to you.

amwd

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/

aidanki

amwd wrote: »

As was said start to practice on flat and get that very right first,forget pipe for now.
You must practice alot to be any good.
I am a coded welder.
Good luck to you.

+1 on the lots of practice

what bits of paper did yout get before you went and got your coding certs which I guess you got through FAS

bob charles

aidanki wrote: »

+1 on the lots of practice

what bits of paper did yout get before you went and got your coding certs which I guess you got through FAS

its a good qualification to have, there is plenty of welding work to be had on farms, especially if you are involved in farming. Im just a self taught, which is grand as after enough practice and welding it becomes easier.