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Removing pedals

  • 20-06-2012 6:13pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,526 ✭✭✭✭


    Hey all, I'm setting up my SPD pedals now. Shoes all worked out fine, but just removing pedals, and **** is it hard!

    I have one of them off (the left side one, the one that threads in the "wrong" direction!), but absolutely can't get the right hand (drive) side on off, the one that threads in the "right" direction.

    Bought a pedal wrench today specially for the job.

    I have taken pedals off very old bikes before, but this one has me stumped.

    Any hints/suggestions? It doesn't need an allen-key to remove, I'm turning it in the correct direction, etc.

    How can I tell if it might have been cross-threaded when it was assembled?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    It might be worth trying to tighten the pedal a bit first. Might break the seal and allow you to loosen it then. If it was cross threaded, it's likely that it wouldn't have been wound in all the way as it would likely jam before then. It should also be possible to see/feel the pedal axis wobbling as you rotate the crank.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,526 ✭✭✭✭Darkglasses


    cdaly_ wrote: »
    It might be worth trying to tighten the pedal a bit first. Might break the seal and allow you to loosen it then. If it was cross threaded, it's likely that it wouldn't have been wound in all the way as it would likely jam before then. It should also be possible to see/feel the pedal axis wobbling as you rotate the crank.

    No movement in it in either direction yet :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 477 ✭✭ciaeim


    No movement in it in either direction yet :(

    put lenght of piping or tubing over end of wrench to give more leverage , that should help


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,830 ✭✭✭doozerie


    I've ended up in some very "creative" positions when trying to remove pedals, a game of Twister wouldn't be a patch on it. The most effective positions were ones where I was able to use my legs to apply the force rather than my arms, so for the right pedal what has worked for me in the past is to push my lower back against the back of the handlebars and push my foot against the pedal spanner - it can be tricky to find a position of the crank where it doesn't simply rotate away as you apply force but it's doable. The pressure against the handlebars should help the bike stay put but if necessary you can squeeze one of the brake levers to help keep the bike from moving.

    Beware though, I've snapped one of the jaws off a regular spanner before when dealing with a stuck pedal, so in so much as you can make sure that the risk of something fleshy hitting the likes of chainrings if something "gives" is minimal. Easier said than done, that, as various gouges in my limbs can vouch for.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,017 ✭✭✭Crow92


    Gt85, spray....wait....spray some more....wait....try again.
    Usually does the trick for me, its a penetrative oil so it should help loosen it up.


    ^^^
    And yes i agree with the above, watch your flesh, bloody hate taking off pedals sometimes, feel like i'm asking for a chainring in the forearm.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,526 ✭✭✭✭Darkglasses


    I did it!! Yeees!

    Loads of oil, and loads of pulling/pushing/thrusting/jumping.

    End result, a nice SPD set up! Got a great deal on shoes today and everything!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 573 ✭✭✭el Bastardo


    doozerie wrote: »
    I've ended up in some very "creative" positions when trying to remove pedals, a game of Twister wouldn't be a patch on it. The most effective positions were ones where I was able to use my legs to apply the force rather than my arms, so for the right pedal what has worked for me in the past is to push my lower back against the back of the handlebars and push my foot against the pedal spanner - it can be tricky to find a position of the crank where it doesn't simply rotate away as you apply force but it's doable. The pressure against the handlebars should help the bike stay put but if necessary you can squeeze one of the brake levers to help keep the bike from moving.

    Beware though, I've snapped one of the jaws off a regular spanner before when dealing with a stuck pedal, so in so much as you can make sure that the risk of something fleshy hitting the likes of chainrings if something "gives" is minimal. Easier said than done, that, as various gouges in my limbs can vouch for.

    I stabbed myself with a bare chainwheel quite severely while attempting pedal removal: Best to use your heel of your hand (or a mallet) to give a few sharp bangs to the end of the wrench (making sure it's in the right direction).


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,012 ✭✭✭kincsem


    Putting the chain on the big ring will prevent stabbing. (too late I know)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 573 ✭✭✭el Bastardo


    kincsem wrote: »
    Putting the chain on the big ring will prevent stabbing. (too late I know)


    Yep, but having no chain in the first place doesn't help (In my case, I was packing my bike for a trip abroad and I was running late - For my efforts, I checked in with a bundle of bog roll round my knuckles!).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,313 ✭✭✭Mycroft H


    Long 15mm spanner with a pipe over the other end usually gets the job done.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,952 ✭✭✭funnights74


    Gently tap the spanner with a hammer is another good trick i picked up in here a while back, just to get it loose then, then it flies off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,526 ✭✭✭✭Darkglasses


    Funnights74 i can assure you i was actually leathering that spanner with a hammer several times, to no avail!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,952 ✭✭✭funnights74


    Worked for me along with a lash of wd 40, but at least you got it sorted.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12 jtwoods


    Probably a bit late now but cannnot recommend enough putting a layer of copper-grease on the new pedal threads before installing. Makes them much easier to take off in futore


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,245 ✭✭✭check_six


    -Old seat post (not carbon fibre!) does nicely as a pipe to increase leverage on a spanner.
    -Bit of grease on the threads before you put on the new ones helps a lot.
    Getting the pedals into a position where you can use your foot on the pipe over the spanner is important.
    -Leave the other pedal on once you have started to get it loose. It helps to have it there to hold on to.
    -Most important of all the non-drive side pedal is threaded backwards. Turn clockwise to loosen. (OP knows this but just in case others are looking in...)

    Well done for getting the pedal off, by the way, OP!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,607 ✭✭✭VinylJunkie


    I'm going to be removing my pedals tonight, fingers crossed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,526 ✭✭✭✭Darkglasses


    Good luck VinylJunkie! On a related note, how long can i expect SPD cleats to last if they're given every day use?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,741 ✭✭✭✭Squidgy Black


    Good luck VinylJunkie! On a related note, how long can i expect SPD cleats to last if they're given every day use?

    Will you be walking on them? and are they road shoes or MTB shoes? If they're road shoes that you'll be walking on they'll wear out pretty quickly, I know people who use MTB shoes and have had the same cleats for years.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,526 ✭✭✭✭Darkglasses


    They're mountain bike shoes, very casual styled. The cleat is recessed well above the sole of the shoe, so it won't make contact with the ground. I'll be doing minimal walking in them i expect. So should be a few years at least!


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