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G&G Raider Upgrade
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14-06-2012 9:28am#1
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Guys
Looking to upgrade my raider so I'm thinking hop up and a barrel. pretty sure the model i have is the GR15 any recommendations?
Could i do it myself or am i best taking it some place to get it done, based in North Dublin.
Honestly you dont have to be mechanically minded to do this, have a look on youtube for some tutorials if you want, but you should be able to figure it out yourself no problem..its not going to burst into flames or anything.
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To change the barrel and hop, as Southern Dandy said, is not particularly difficult.
Pop out the front receiver pin, hold onto the charging handle and slide the top receiver off (make sure the dust cover is up, or it might feel like it's stuck
)
Once they're separated remove the charging handle and spring from lower, just to stop it falling and going walkabout.
Remove the barrel and hop up chamber from the upper receiver (it just pulls out of the outer barrel). Turn the hop all the way off and hold it upside down (feed tube facing up), and remove the green cir-clip. Hold the barrel firmly, and apply downward pressure in the chamber and pull it out (wriggle gently) and you should be able to get barrel and hop out in one.
Just for the record, the raider comes with the G&G green rubber as far as I know, and that is (in my opinion) one of the best on the market. I'd just be changing the barrel if I were you, and maybe the hop up nub0 -
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To change the barrel and hop, as Southern Dandy said, is not particularly difficult.
Pop out the front receiver pin, hold onto the charging handle and slide the top receiver off (make sure the dust cover is up, or it might feel like it's stuck )
Once they're separated remove the charging handle and spring from lower, just to stop it falling and going walkabout.
Remove the barrel and hop up chamber from the upper receiver (it just pulls out of the outer barrel). Turn the hop all the way off and hold it upside down (feed tube facing up), and remove the green cir-clip. Hold the barrel firmly, and apply downward pressure in the chamber and pull it out (wriggle gently) and you should be able to get barrel and hop out in one.
Just for the record, the raider comes with the G&G green rubber as far as I know, and that is (in my opinion) one of the best on the market. I'd just be changing the barrel if I were you, and maybe the hop up nub
+1 on the green hop up rubber. I use a 363mm Python Black VII and a H-hop up nub in my Raider, the H-Hop along with the green works amazingly. I used a barrel extension to cover the longer barrel length as I have the shorter Raider0 -
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yeah i have the short one too, so I'll probably have to do that or maybe see can i get a shorter barrel.
or get a suppressor.. i had a spare outer barrel at home from when i sold my SCAR but a suppressor will do the trick, I personally find the Stock barrel in the short Raider to be a little too small to reach out to targets.. 0 -
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King Arms platinum are grand. I'm a firm believer in the King Arms .25 Bio (just because we love guns, doesn't mean we don't have to love the environment
). Then again, .25's in an AEG aren't everyone's cuppa, due to slight decreases in range, but I'm all for the extra accuracy. 0 -
King Arms platinum are grand. I'm a firm believer in the King Arms .25 Bio (just because we love guns, doesn't mean we don't have to love the environment). Then again, .25's in an AEG aren't everyone's cuppa, due to slight decreases in range, but I'm all for the extra accuracy.
I use .25's think they're great too. I used .23's made by ICS and they were absolutely amazing but that was a long time ago and just never bothered getting them again, I use King Arm's BB's, stay away from the G&G ones, they used to be the BB but they have gone so bad 
. also recommend Excels 0 -
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took all of a minute to get at the barrel thanks lads.
last question I promise
T4RGET I'm thinking of going for the 363 barrel as you've suggested. the existing one is 233mm leaving 130mm poking out. as you've said an extender or silencer to cover it would be needed, and i've seen the silencer i want here basically the insignia will match my loadout coz i have USAF ABUs so it'd be nice to tie it all in. but the silencer is 165mm in length, leaving 35mm longer than the inner barrel, would that cause a problem? i've heard of people who have put longer inner barrels in and a silencer and there has been cases where they dont line up right. would you reckon that he 35mm is too much of a gap from the end of the barrel?0 -
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took all of a minute to get at the barrel thanks lads.
last question I promise
T4RGET I'm thinking of going for the 363 barrel as you've suggested. the existing one is 233mm leaving 130mm poking out. as you've said an extender or silencer to cover it would be needed, and i've seen the silencer i want here basically the insignia will match my loadout coz i have USAF ABUs so it'd be nice to tie it all in. but the silencer is 165mm in length, leaving 35mm longer than the inner barrel, would that cause a problem? i've heard of people who have put longer inner barrels in and a silencer and there has been cases where they dont line up right. would you reckon that he 35mm is too much of a gap from the end of the barrel?
I honestly cannot see that being a problem tbh. think about people that use the suppressor without an extended barrel, that means if you have a 233mm for example and a 165mm suppressor that means it's now longer by 165mm, so your 35mm cannot possibly cause any problems I could see. I've used suppressors before without problem, I'd say the problem you've heard is when the outer barrel itself is bent, which would cause the BB to hit of the edge of the suppressor as it leaves. but other than that i cannot see it being a problem0 -
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Had a gander tonight I can see the parts you're talking about, now I don't have the right size keys but it looks easy enough. Looking at it it seems there's two tiny nuts on the triangle front sight that look like they hold it to the barell. I may have to remive the ris rails to get at them or maybe not the light wasn't great tonight. Also it seems the ris is loose so that may be why the barrel isn't exactly straight. I'll strip her when I get back from holiday. I owe you a beer dude.
the entire RIS can be tightened by tightening the two allen keys located in the same place as the ones mentioned before but towards the back of the rail system. you shouldn't have to remove the RIS to get to the grub screws holding the barrel in, just loosen them a bit on the front assembly, push down the metal plate. then push the front assembly onto the outer barrel and you should be able to reach the grub screws through holes on the side of the rails, then push the metal plate back up and tighten back up all the allen screws. 0 -
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