Recommend a Bike for Tall and Heavy people

SpannerMonkey

Hi guys looking at getting a bike to try get fit again , problem is I'm 6ft 5 and 25 stone , , used to cycle a lot years ago ,but have been out of it a long time and I'm a lot bigger now :rolleyes:, so can you guys recommend a bike , if one actually exists
Thanks

mathepac

Penny-farthing with iron-shod cart-wheels? Just pushing it around will make you sweat.

themandan6611

the same as if you were heavy and small, a good mountain bike

recedite

Steel or alu frame; avoid carbon fibre just in case it cracks...
Wheels and gears are important. You'll need a "compact chainset" to get a low gear for the hills, strong wheels, and 25C or 32C (defo not 23C) tyres to avoid constant punctures.

Peterx

Maybe start with an aluminum mountain bike with slick tyres, plenty of low gears for hilly roads and the frame should be able to withstand larger forces (pardon the pun)

Crow92

I'd say custom build wheels are the way to go whichever type of bike you choose, high spoke count 36+ with good strong spoker, wider rims and tyres.

It'll ensure more support and more peace of mind knowing the wheels were built to suit you needs not just stock ones.

Colonialboy

Stay away from Carbon for now. Get yourself a hybrid or a mtb. Make sure you have slick or semislicks so you can roll along on the road without the tyres sucking the tarmac.
Also dont bother with a suspension on the back or front unless you plan off road. The bouncing will just suck energy and comfort for no return. Ive a Trek 6500 , and im 6'3 and find it very comfortable to ride, I think the top tubes on the Treks are a bit longer, makes it nicer for taller people.
And go with a compact until you get your fitness back.
It has the original wheels, WTB Dual Duty 559x17 and htey still run true and the hub is fine and they have taken alot of abuse. They are wghty but very solid. With good tyres, I have Vredestein, and you should be all set.
Ask your local bike shop to help out, even fit it to your specifc height Id expect them to cater to your needs, after all if theres an issue you can always bring it back under guarantee. Consider a 175 crank too.
All the brand names are built to withstand impact , so even though your overweight its no more than they would take pounding down a trail etc..
good luck, let us know what you decide on Id be interested, just make sure you get it before the summers over and get some miles in.
Get a track pump so you can get the pressure high in the tyres

Lumen

Carbon fibre is very strong. That's why they use it for safety cells in F1 cars.

At 25 stone the main concern will be wheels, and 23mm will be iffy. Better to find a frame that accepts 28mm tyres (i.e. not massively racy) and then find some wheels that won't implode when those tyres are pumped to 120+psi.

Colonialboy

Lumen wrote: »

Carbon fibre is very strong. That's why they use it for safety cells in F1 cars.

At 25 stone the main concern will be wheels, and 23mm will be iffy. Better to find a frame that accepts 28mm tyres (i.e. not massively racy) and then find some wheels that won't implode when those tyres are pumped to 120+psi.

The structure of the carbon fibre used in F1 and cycling are two very different beasts.
F1 carbon fibre is far more expensive and has many different properties to whats built into a bicycle how its layered . The OPs weight will work against the non-isotropic nature of the carbon fibre used in bicycles, unless he is willing to spend 34,000 on his bike.

http://www.carbonfibergear.com/34000-carbon-fiber-monocoque-framed-f1-bicycle/

"Every component was crafted in-house using the same techniques used to produce Formula One components.. The Factor 001 has a lightweight and extremely rigid carbon fiber monocoque structure. They use a twin vane system that offers lateral stiffness with no weight penalty"

Lumen

http://road.cc/content/news/59716-interview-round-world-record-holder-mike-hall-talks-round-world-record-kit

"“Over the past few years I’ve become a proponent of carbon for longer rides,” says Mike. “I’ve found that I’ve cracked any metal bike over a long period of time. Steel, alu or titanium, I’ve cracked them all through long-term use. If you look at fatigue tests, carbon frames perform better. A bad carbon frame will fail, of course, but I’m a fan because it’s a more damped ride."

Harrybelafonte

SpannerMonkey wrote: »

Hi guys looking at getting a bike to try get fit again , problem is I'm 6ft 5 and 25 stone , , used to cycle a lot years ago ,but have been out of it a long time and I'm a lot bigger now :rolleyes:, so can you guys recommend a bike , if one actually exists
Thanks

Started back cycling at 19 stone and 6ft 1'. Had same concerns. You'll be fine on a hybrid or mountain bike, but as the guys say wheels will be the issue. Don't worry about carbon and all that.

Go for it though. You'll find it's a great way to lose weight and stay healthy. Good luck!

nilhg

I know of a considerably heavier man than the OP who started cycling, he's on a fairly standard Trek aluminium road bike, not sure if it's a 1 or 2 series.

I'd suggest giving John in Cahill cycles in Naas a shout, I know he checked out the various possibilities for this man before he started on the bike.

recedite

Colonialboy wrote: »

Consider a 175 crank too.

Good point, I'd say 175 as a minimum; maybe even 180 if available.

Lumen wrote: »

http://road.cc/content/news/59716-interview-round-world-record-holder-mike-hall-talks-round-world-record-kit

"“Over the past few years I’ve become a proponent of carbon for longer rides,” says Mike. “I’ve found that I’ve cracked any metal bike over a long period of time. Steel, alu or titanium, I’ve cracked them all through long-term use. If you look at fatigue tests, carbon frames perform better. A bad carbon frame will fail, of course, but I’m a fan because it’s a more damped ride."

Mike there is a skinny guy talking about "metal fatigue", which builds up in metal over a very long time/mileage. On this thread we are talking about a heavy guy who wants a new bike to withstand big forces. The nearest the average bike comes to withstanding these forces is in a crash. CF frames have a habit of snapping in half in a crash. A steel frame might bend. If I was still on the bike when it gave way, (lets say he hits a ramp at speed) I'd prefer to be on a bent frame than a snapped one. The CF used in frames might be strong, but its sooooo thin.....

langdang

The brother is about your height OP, not your weight but you wouldn't say he was lanky either like.
He has a Trek 7.1fx, they are available in pretty big sizes and seem pretty sturdy. 35c tyres, 32 spoke wheels, V-brakes.

Get a big enough frame, at that weight you could have problems with the seatpost if there is too much sticking out of the frame. (more likely off road really I suppose?)
Keep them tyres pumped.
Be wary of foot/wheel overlap if you have large shoes to go with the height.

Best of luck, go for it, stick with it, don't put it off.

Lumen

recedite wrote: »

CF frames have a habit of snapping in half in a crash. A steel frame might bend. If I was still on the bike when it gave way, (lets say he hits a ramp at speed) I'd prefer to be on a bent frame than a snapped one. The CF used in frames might be strong, but its sooooo thin.....

I don't currently use a CF bike for road racing, but the last one I had cracked a seatstay in a bunch crash at 55kph. That was a Scott Addict SL, which is one of top end weightweenie frames. It didn't "snap in half", and I'd already crashed it several times at lower speeds (around 40kph) without any damage.

There are loads of reports of lightweight alu and steel frames failing, in crashes and through normal use. I've seen a Litespeed alu frame which cracked at the BB shell in normal use.

In any case, I wouldn't buy a frame based on whether it can survive a 55kph crash, and there's absolutely no way you're going to snap a bicycle frame of any material by going over a ramp, unless the frame is poorly manufactured or fatigued.

Mycroft H

Lumen wrote: »

I don't currently use a CF bike for road racing, but the last one I had cracked a seatstay in a bunch crash at 55kph. That was a Scott Addict SL, which is one of top end weightweenie frames. It didn't "snap in half", and I'd already crashed it several times at lower speeds (around 40kph) without any damage.

There are loads of reports of lightweight alu and steel frames failing, in crashes and through normal use. I've seen a Litespeed alu frame which cracked at the BB shell in normal use.

In any case, I wouldn't buy a frame based on whether it can survive a 55kph crash, and there's absolutely no way you're going to snap a bicycle frame of any material by going over a ramp, unless the frame is poorly manufactured or fatigued.

And their is equally as many reports of carbon frames failing.

Carbon = Snaps suddenly with loads of sharp pieces
Alu = Snaps suddenly, doesn't bend.
Steel = Bends, goes "spongy" before anything serious happens.

Lumen

BX 19 wrote: »

And their is equally as many reports of carbon frames failing.

Carbon = Snaps suddenly with loads of sharp pieces
Alu = Snaps suddenly, doesn't bend.
Steel = Bends, goes "spongy" before anything serious happens.

http://lovelybike.blogspot.ie/2012/04/warnings-of-failure.html

"What gets me about the stories of steel frame failure, is that the cyclists never see it coming. From their point of view, these too are sudden failures. In reality, I do not doubt that the failures were in fact gradual - but save for checking for evidence of stress with a loupe before every ride, how does the cyclist benefit from that gradualness?"

deandean

Fair Dues to you OP for getting back in the saddle. Best of Luck! Here is what I suggest:

- Consider going to a good bike shop and get a bike custom made.
- Go for an aluminium frame
- Spend good money on the wheels 'cos they are absolutely key to a good bike for you;
- go for a triple (front) chainset, and the widest range you can get on the back wheel, e.g. 11-34.
- You need hydraulic disk brakes with big rotors for your weight

And either hybrid or MTB according to your choice. I'd say go MTB for these two reasons:
(1) time in the saddle is more important than distance travelled - feck inefficiency, and
(2) On an MTB yo can fit wider tyres that are more comfy.

If you want to buy off-the-shelf I recommend a hard tail 29er (MTB with big, 29 inch wheels) such as the Specialized Carve. Go for top of the range 'cos that'll have better wheels (but I am biased - I just bought one and I love it

Mycroft H

Lumen wrote: »

http://lovelybike.blogspot.ie/2012/04/warnings-of-failure.html

"What gets me about the stories of steel frame failure, is that the cyclists never see it coming. From their point of view, these too are sudden failures. In reality, I do not doubt that the failures were in fact gradual - but save for checking for evidence of stress with a loupe before every ride, how does the cyclist benefit from that gradualness?"

There is plenty of other warning signs of impending failure. Paint blistering around a bend in a damaged fork for example. Cracks around the bottom bracket area. These are quite easy to spot. All of these could be spotted in routine maintenance on a weekly basis when giving the bike a once over. The story of not having a clue it was failing, I would suggest comes from people who ride their bikes into the ground and never once even oiling the chain. Not being observant enough to spot the clues.

And if we'er going to quote blogs, have a read of what Dave Moulton has to say on the matter. An ex TDF frame builder, he has an idea of what he is talking about.

http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2011/12/27/straightening-steel-forks.html

The good thing about a steel frame is that it will rarely fail suddenly, but a crack will appear first and the frame will start to feel “spongy” as a warning before it fails completely.

Another point regarding steel frames brought up in the article is that steel frames can generally be bent back into shape after an accident with no real loss of integrity. Ease of repair is a plus point. I've bent a fork back into shape and it was riding fine for years after that.

EDIT:

If you can't spot this, you really need to go to specsavers:

langdang

deandean wrote: »

Fair Dues to you OP for getting back in the saddle. Best of Luck! Here is what I suggest:

- Consider going to a good bike shop and get a bike custom made.
- Go for an aluminium frame
- Spend good money on the wheels 'cos they are absolutely key to a good bike for you;
- go for a triple (front) chainset, and the widest range you can get on the back wheel, e.g. 11-34.
- You need hydraulic disk brakes with big rotors for your weight

And either hybrid or MTB according to your choice. I'd say go MTB for these two reasons:
(1) time in the saddle is more important than distance travelled - feck inefficiency, and
(2) On an MTB yo can fit wider tyres that are more comfy.

If you want to buy off-the-shelf I recommend a hard tail 29er (MTB with big, 29 inch wheels) such as the Specialized Carve. Go for top of the range 'cos that'll have better wheels (but I am biased - I just bought one and I love it

Agree with some of this but not all.
Custom frame would be prohibitively expensive ( IMO ).
I agree with aluminium frame, purely because at a "reasonable" budget for a fitness bike (500 - 800ish) you have only one commonly available option in Road, Hybrid or MTB frames.
Off the shelf MTB frames could leave too much seatpost exposed (IMHO again), I'd be leaning towards a hybrid.
(Don't buy a hybrid with suspension forks BTW)

Ah_go_on

I'm the same height however a little lighter now (Was 18st) and got a 62cm trek 1.2 roadbike with handbuilt wheels and had change out of €1000. Lovely bike that has since been upgraded but was fit for purpose. Even had a couple of crashes and the wheels stayed true (Mavic CXP 33 rims with shimano 105 hubs, I think they had either 32 or 36 spokes). As per all the previous posts, the wheels are the most important thing due to your weight

Wheelworx fonthill rd supplied the bike and wheels.

Best of luck

recedite

Lumen wrote: »

"What gets me about the stories of steel frame failure, is that the cyclists never see it coming. From their point of view, these too are sudden failures. In reality, I do not doubt that the failures were in fact gradual - but save for checking for evidence of stress with a loupe before every ride, how does the cyclist benefit from that gradualness?"

I was able to cycle home more than once after crashes on steel frames that had straightened forks and also matching ripples in the top tube and down tube. Very short wheelbase, but rideable. So it will go out of shape before it breaks.

coolbeans

If you're gonna be cycling on the road
get a road bike. Just because you're big doesn't preclude you from being a roadie. I don't really understand the logic being espoused by many here at all. You'll need decent hoops though as had been mentioned.