New Vs Old (Road bike)

skipz

I only started cycling a road bike at the end of last year and really got into it.
I bought myslef a second hand 1986 Centurion Signot and over the months have upgraded some parts to up to date stuff like carbon fibre seat and post and a new wheel set.
I love the bike now and only want to change the sh*ty heavy cranks and bb out for something alot lighter and possibly the bars.

Has anyone eles kept with their old stead and upgraded? Or do you ditch the bike and get something newer?

front wheel and pedals gone

rich.d.berry

I hope that the chain was on the big ring and largest cog just for the sake of the photo. Storing the bike like that will place a lot of stress on the derailleur.

Can't answer your question though, sorry.

smacl

Has anyone eles kept with their old stead and upgraded? Or do you ditch the bike and get something newer?

I guess it depends why you do it. I picked up a 2nd hand Ridley Triton last year, and so far have replaced wheels, stem, bars, pedals, saddle, cassette, front deraileur, brake shoes, cable inners and outers, and added bottle cages, computer, lights and bag. As per another thread, also thinking of upgrading to a carbon frame. Probably upgrade the group set over time too. Basically, all that will be left of the original bike by this time next year will be a lot of fond memories, a shed load of spares, and numerous worrying lines on my credit card bill.

Is it a cost effective way of doing it? Not by a long stretch. Is it a fun way of getting the bike you want and learning how it works? Hell yes! I've spent many dark winters evenings sipping beer, cursing my bike, wishing I'd never started, and glorying in the fact I'd pretty much got away with it in the end. There's also the issue that a new off the shelf bike wouldn't be exactly what's required and still need those upgrades. I like my Brooks saddle and very wide gear range for example, and the wheels I've now got, though cheap enough, are still better than many stock wheels on a new budget road bike. The bike is also becoming a one off, not the one that most people would choose perhaps, but I love her.

neilr4

Jeez that's one very long wheelbase............

secman

Reminds me of the scene on "Only Fools & Horses" where
Trigger is talking lovingly about his sweeping brush that he has had for 20 + years and goes on to say he's changed the handle about 9 times and the brush head about 10 times !


Still riding a Raparee frame with original Dura Ace groupset that I had built in 1992. Only back on the bike this year after a ten year break.


Secman

neilr4

secman wrote: »

Reminds me of the scene on "Only Fools & Horses" where
Trigger is talking lovingly about his sweeping brush that he has had for 20 + years and goes on to say he's changed the handle about 9 times and the brush head about 10 times !


Still riding a Raparee frame with original Dura Ace groupset that I had built in 1992. Only back on the bike this year after a ten year break.


Secman

Sorry to get off topic:

Oh that brings back memories....... I raced back in the day with the lads who made the frames (forget their names!) I read somewhere they were back producing frames again. Have you a pic of the bike? I rode a Tommasini with Dura ace but the bike is long gone, something I really regret getting rid of

N.

Seaswimmer

I have a Raleigh Record Ace from 1983 that I use every day commuting. However only the frame, bars, stem and seatpost are original. Everything else has been upgraded. It is very comfortable but I do worry about wear and tear. I hope because it is steel that I will get some warning if anything is going to snap...

Tonyandthewhale

My winter trainer is a 1980's motobecane vitus tubing steel frame with a modern 105/tiagra 9 speed groupset that I also got on here. I prefer my more modern carbon bike (although that's a few years old now) but there's nothing wrong with the steel frame for training or commuting.

Amongst my friends there's another fella riding a 1990ish team banana frame with an upgraded shimano groupset and wheels and another fella with an early 90's British Eagle Touristique touring bike with ultegra 9 speed groupset, original shimano exage biopace crankset and 9 speed shimano deore rear derailleur, cassette and rear hub. Yet another fella is riding a late 80's raleigh, 531 frame and original 6 speed, frictionshift shimano 600 groupset. Tyres, cables, chain, freewheel and other wear-outable parts have been replaced as needs be but otherwise it's still retro.
Also, my commuting/off-road touring bike is a giant rock mountain bike that I bought in 2004, the frame, seatpost and front hub are still original. Although I plan on replacing the seatpost and handlebars with something lighter/more aerodynamic in the near future.

So there's nothing wrong with using an old bike and replacing/upgrading parts over time and nothing wrong with riding an old bike or mixing and matching parts from different eras (although you will have compatibility issues with certain parts that you need to be aware of).

Be aware though that most modern handlebars are 31.8mm clamp diameter and older bars are (I think) 26mm. So either be careful and make sure you've got the same clampsize that'll fit your stem or buy a stem adaptor to replace your quill stem and put an over-size stem on it.

Tonyandthewhale

You desperately need to replace those brake levers too, suicide bars are a big no no if you want to be one of the cool kids. Lovely nice comfy aero brake levers can be got very cheap if you don't care about integrated shifting.

skipz

Cheers Tonyandthewhale, I didnt know that about the stem adaptor I must look it that now for some new bars.

Yeah the the levers are horrible, not great on the hands on the long cycles either!

Highway_To_Hell

secman wrote: »

Reminds me of the scene on "Only Fools & Horses" where
Trigger is talking lovingly about his sweeping brush that he has had for 20 + years and goes on to say he's changed the handle about 9 times and the brush head about 10 times !

Secman

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbha4XclSMU

happytramp

Nice looking old bike. I'd add some new (old) aero levers, where the cables come out the back of the levers and are routed under the bar tape...



then drill out the fork and seat stay bridge to allow for modern dual pivot brakes for far better stopping power.



They'll still look great on an old school frame but function infinitely better.

secman

Neilr4, the family name for the Raparee was Maye, based down in Clonard, Co Meath. they had a little work shop beside their house.

Secman

neilr4

secman wrote: »

Neilr4, the family name for the Raparee was Maye, based down in Clonard, Co Meath. they had a little work shop beside their house.

Secman

Correct and right Secman, thanks for that

studiorat

Front wheel's on backwards.

QR levers must be on the same side (left). Rear in line with the chain stay, front parallel to the forks.

I ride a 1986-ish Mercian myself. But I would wonder about going too far replacing parts on an old bike. Most new stuff these days is different sizes.

The Signet is a good bike but it wasn't near their performance bikes and was towards the lower end of the range back in the day. You could keep an eye out and upgrade the whole lot for the price of a decent chain-set and handlebar set-up.

Here's some food for thought : http://www.adverts.ie/bikes/claud-butler-58cm-aluminum-frame/1725183

http://www.adverts.ie/bikes/mercian-road-bike-retro-vinatage-steel-531-fixie-track-bike/1725079

endacl

neilr4 wrote: »

Jeez that's one very long wheelbase............

That's what they all used to be like...

petethedrummer

studiorat wrote: »

Here's some food for thought : http://www.adverts.ie/bikes/claud-butler-58cm-aluminum-frame/1725183

http://www.adverts.ie/bikes/mercian-road-bike-retro-vinatage-steel-531-fixie-track-bike/1725079

and some fine dining: http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/bicycles/3286717

studiorat

petethedrummer wrote: »

and some fine dining: http://www.donedeal.ie/for-sale/bicycles/3286717

It's lovely, but a it's still a little too saucy. Maybe €750...

dave2pvd

rich.d.berry wrote: »

I hope that the chain was on the big ring and largest cog just for the sake of the photo. Storing the bike like that will place a lot of stress on the derailleur.

Nah. Not really. Plus, its a good way of transporting a bike. Not much chance of the chain jumping off.

On my 1x10 CX bike, the pulleys are only ~30deg off horizontal when I'm in the 28T on the rear. Maximizing that tension is beneficial on the bumpy stuff.

skipz

studiorat wrote: »

Front wheel's on backwards.

QR levers must be on the same side (left). Rear in line with the chain stay, front parallel to the forks.

I ride a 1986-ish Mercian myself. But I would wonder about going too far replacing parts on an old bike. Most new stuff these days is different sizes.

The Signet is a good bike but it wasn't near their performance bikes and was towards the lower end of the range back in the day. You could keep an eye out and upgrade the whole lot for the price of a decent chain-set and handlebar set-up.

Here's some food for thought : http://www.adverts.ie/bikes/claud-butler-58cm-aluminum-frame/1725183

http://www.adverts.ie/bikes/mercian-road-bike-retro-vinatage-steel-531-fixie-track-bike/1725079[/QUOTE]

Yeah the Signot was more sold as a tourer as far as I know, mind you its still made with Tange steel used in the high end models of the time.

Thats why I'am feeling like i'am slower this week, front wheels on the wrong way round :rolleyes:

studiorat

skipz wrote: »

Thats why I'am feeling like i'am slower this week, front wheels on the wrong way round :rolleyes:

Caught you! Trying to fix the milage eh? Chancer...

route66

studiorat wrote: »

Front wheel's on backwards.

QR levers must be on the same side (left). Rear in line with the chain stay, front parallel to the forks.
<SNIP>

Why?
I can understand how having the qrs on the same side looks better but why else is it important - at least on the front because I could undertand why you'd want the qr on the non-drive side at the back for clearance. In fact, if you installed the skewers the "wrong way" on the front, how would anyone know the difference? Does it matter to the bearings?

Last question - having the qr levers in line with chainstay and forks as you say surely makes them harder to remove because you have less clearance to get your hand behind them?

Sorry for the slight thread hijack ...

Mycroft H

route66 wrote: »

Why?
I can understand how having the qrs on the same side looks better but why else is it important - at least on the front because I could undertand why you'd want the qr on the non-drive side at the back for clearance. In fact, if you installed the skewers the "wrong way" on the front, how would anyone know the difference? Does it matter to the bearings?

Last question - having the qr levers in line with chainstay and forks as you say surely makes them harder to remove because you have less clearance to get your hand behind them?

Sorry for the slight thread hijack ...

It does nothing to the bearings I would imagine.

However, its easier to the the QR lever on the non drive side on the rear as there is more clearance.

I tend to put them in between the chain stays and the seatstays as its easier to get my hand behind them, damn anyone for thinking they don't look "euro"