maple tree

cena

I'm thinking of getting an maple tree most likey like the ones you see in the u.s. Where would be best in ireland Mainly (ROSCOMMON/ ATHLONE AREA) to get one to plant in the back garden. I don't really want one thats grows big but big enough.

pwurple

Maples are acer's. There are many types, any good nursery or garden center would be able to get one for you. Tree planting season is autumn/winter. October/November is a good time to plant.

The sycamore is the usual one people go for. Medium height. Not sure if that's what you want, or if you want something more colourful in the autumn? or do you actually want maple syrup?

Big but just big enough?... Everyone has a different idea of what big enough is. Have you got an actual height in mind?

cena

pwurple wrote: »

Maples are acer's. There are many types, any good nursery or garden center would be able to get one for you. Tree planting season is autumn/winter. October/November is a good time to plant.

The sycamore is the usual one people go for. Medium height. Not sure if that's what you want, or if you want something more colourful in the autumn? or do you actually want maple syrup?

Big but just big enough?... Everyone has a different idea of what big enough is. Have you got an actual height in mind?

I would be looking a nice colourful tree at the autumn time leafs turn red etc. Thinking of a height of maybe 12ft. Garden is small in a rented house. Back wall is very bare. Well put up some pics later what I'm looking for

looksee

Whether or not leaves turn colour has as much to do with the local climate as the type of tree. Granted maples do change colour but you might not always get the effects of New England.

Spread

Greetings from New Hampshire!
To get the leaves more vivid, you need night frosts. Also if you are going to tap the trees you need the sap running ....... this again is caused by the night frosts. Warm days and cool nights!
Last Fall, because of the mild nights, the production of Maple Syrup was quite low. This results in the present shortage and, like oil, causes a spike in prices.
Best of luck with your endeavour.

Underneath is a more advanced explanation:

"The green we see in tree leaves is the pigment chlorophyll. Stored in chloroplasts in the watery cytoplasm of plant cells, it is responsible for creating food for the plants. Chlorophyll uses the sun's energy to split water molecules and recombine them with carbon dioxide in the air to make sugars. It's amazing to think that most of the mass of a big, heavy tree is created out of thin air!
The abundance of green chlorophyll hides other pigments that are found in the leaves at the same time. These hidden pigments may act as a kind of "sunblock" to protect the leaves from some dangerous types of ultraviolet light. Carotene (the orange in carrots) and Xanthophyll (yellows) are usually present in the leaves, but not revealed until the chlorophyll begins to break down in the Fall as the tree begins to get ready for the winter.
Other pigments are produced by some trees as the nights lengthen and temperatures become cooler. These environmental changes bring a surge in the tree's production of sugars. Stored sugars will help the tree survive the winter. Sugars also stimulate the production of pigments called Anthocyanins (red/purples found in rose petals & apple peels). These pigments produce the vivid red fall colors. These pigments can also be visible in very early spring leaves, before the chlorophyll is produced. Anthocyanins can be seen all year long in the leaves of trees such as Copper Beech and Japanese Maple.
What about brown oak leaves?
Other materials in plants can change the tint of the colors we see in the leaves. Tannins (the gold-brown color in your cup of tea) combine with the other pigments in oak leaves. Temperature, moisture content, soil composition, acidity and other environmental factors influence leaf colors as well."

Oldtree

Maple probably not the best choice for a small garden. If it is a bit of color you want then wires or trellace across the wall will allow you to grow either Virginia Creeper or Boston Ivy or something in that vein. Or you could grow annuals like sweetpea against the wall with wires.

For a picture of autumn color you wont believe have a look at this earlier post in forestry, and mind blowing explanation too.

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056613772

cena

well I doesn't have to maple.

Any of these.

http://www.centralpark2000.com/database_trees/pin_oak.htm

http://www.centralpark2000.com/database_trees/red_maple.htm

http://www.centralpark2000.com/database_trees/norway_maple.htm

pwurple

12ft is tidy enough, and it is rented...
I would suggest for colour either some japanese acers (maple family again) or a cherry blossom.

As it is rented, you don't want to spend a pile. Aldi have some large japanese acers at the moment for around 15 euro. Read the labels. There are ones that get to 4m.

paddy147

cena wrote: »

Garden is small in a rented house. Back wall is very bare.

The 1st thing to ask here is........Do you have full permission and consent from your landlord to plant a tree in the back garden?????

looksee

Since its a rented house you could put in a sumach/rhus typhina which would give you gorgeous colour in the autumn, no problem. You would have to leave before it took over your garden and all surrounding gardens though!

http://www.findmeplants.co.uk/plant-rhus-typhina-0222.aspx

pwurple

I was just going to say.... Rhus is Crazy invasive! But you have it covered.

cena

I could put it out the front of the house. Nice big green area outside

paddy147

cena wrote: »

I could put it out the front of the house. Nice big green area outside

Regarding placement of any tree....You also have to look into possible future damage to boundary walls,house walls as the tree grows and spreads it roots,and also underground utility services (incomming mains water,gas and any electrical cables).

Do you know where these utilities are located underground and how shallow or deep they are located??



Also,with regards digging a hole in the ground for any tree......Hit any of those utilities and you are fcuked.;)


"Dial before you dig"........ is a very good bit of advice.


PS-I suggest a chat with your landlord 1st about all the above,before you dig up anything or plant anything

cena

paddy147 wrote: »

You also have to look into possible future damage to boundary walls,house walls as the tree grows and spreads it roots,and also underground utility services (incomming mains water,gas and any electrical cables).

Do you know where these utilities are located underground??



Also,with regards digging a hole in the ground for any tree......Hit any of those utilities and you are fcuked.;)

Well its got street lamps around it.Its an estate. The green area is in the middle

paddy147

cena wrote: »

Well its got street lamps around it.Its an estate. The green area is in the middle

Have a chat with your landlord about this matter.

You cant do anything without his/her permission and advice.

The landlord will also most likely know location of mains utilities entering the house from thre street outside.

Also call Bord Gais and also the local county council for info on location of underground utilities.

"Dial before you dig"....;)

paddy147

Oh and Im not saying dont do it,Im just saying go through the right and correct procedures 1st,with regards the landlords permission,and also over locating underground utilities.

Too many accidents and large repair bills from utility companies are caused in matters like this,where people just dig but dont think about whats below their feet/underground.

slowburner

...or you could keep the tree in a very nice pot, and bring it with you when you move.

looksee

Totally agree with the dial before you dig idea, but you can say to workmen - there are cables going up the centre of that concrete and they are probably not as deep as they should be ... and the next thing you know you have six (I am not joking) ESB vans outside your house. And the bill will come later so don't believe them when said workmen tell you they have sorted it. :mad::o

paddy147

looksee wrote: »

Totally agree with the dial before you dig idea, but you can say to workmen - there are cables going up the centre of that concrete and they are probably not as deep as they should be ... and the next thing you know you have six (I am not joking) ESB vans outside your house. And the bill will come later so don't believe them when said workmen tell you they have sorted it. :mad::o

We located all the underground utilities,before my girlfriend dug up the old sh!tty garden and designed/built the new garden and planted the tree.

Had Bord Gais out to locate the incomming gas to the meter box and then also the outgoing pipe from the meter around to the back of the house and the boiler.

Knew the location of the mains water,as I had taken pics of that,when the concrete driveway was dug up and the block pavers were installed.Also the location of the stop cock shore outside gave the location of the water pipe away too.

Do it right,or dont do it at all,with matters like this.:)
1 wrong pick axe,spade or fork into the ground and its a case of "oops".:pac::pac:

cena

No gas underground around here for homes. Oil heating or turf around here

paddy147

cena wrote: »

No gas underground around here for homes. Oil heating or turf around here

lucky you.;):)

cena

paddy147 wrote: »

lucky you.;):)

I wouldn't say lucky for going to the bog

looksee

paddy147 wrote: »

We located all the underground utilities,before my girlfriend dug up the old sh!tty garden and designed/built the new garden and planted the tree.

Had Bord Gais out to locate the incomming gas to the meter box and then also the outgoing pipe from the meter around to the back of the house and the boiler.

Knew the location of the mains water,as I had taken pics of that,when the concrete driveway was dug up and the block pavers were installed.Also the location of the stop cock shore outside gave the location of the water pipe away too.

Do it right,or dont do it at all,with matters like this.:)
1 wrong pick axe,spade or fork into the ground and its a case of "oops".:pac::pac:

Or in our case an enthusiastic fellow with a kango. But that is the point, we knew in theory where the cables and water were supposed to be - here is the stopcock, there is the ESB box etc, but when the houses were built over 40 years ago they were built with more speed than accuracy and the ESB cable was actually partially embedded in the concrete, little more than two inches down. He was warned and could have been more careful, but really who would expect to find an esb cable that close to the surface!

slowburner

looksee wrote: »

Or in our case an enthusiastic fellow with a kango. But that is the point, we knew in theory where the cables and water were supposed to be - here is the stopcock, there is the ESB box etc, but when the houses were built over 40 years ago they were built with more speed than accuracy and the ESB cable was actually partially embedded in the concrete, little more than two inches down. He was warned and could have been more careful, but really who would expect to find an esb cable that close to the surface!

That's often a problem with older houses (causes freezing pipes too) - the depths, and sometimes the direction, of service trenches were often arbitrary.
Services today are supposed to be a minimum of 600 mm below ground level and clearly marked with specific warning tapes.
And that's always, always done...isn't it?

paddy147

slowburner wrote: »

That's often a problem with older houses (causes freezing pipes too) - the depths, and sometimes the direction, of service trenches were often arbitrary.
Services today are supposed to be a minimum of 600 mm below ground level and clearly marked with specific warning tapes.
And that's always, always done...isn't it?

And infilled with at least 100mm of sharp sand or grit to.

You know you are close to the utilities when you see sand/grit on the shovel and soil you are digging up..;):)