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206 Hdi

  • 02-06-2012 2:01pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21


    Rite, First Car. On the road in a week and was thinking of lowereing it and Putting a Nice tidy spoiler on it?

    Spoiler is a cert anyway but does any1 think lowering it would be a bad idea?

    How many hours are in lowering the back as there are torsion bars and not springs

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    What sort of wheels have you? Any pics?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21 grizzly700


    http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=134023276723609&set=a.121238271335443.16346.100003478114125&type=3&theater
    She's not great looking there!

    There 15" Nimrods. They come on the 206 cc convertibles!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    That looks very well, I'd maybe lower it a bit but it's not exactly high at the moment with those wheels.

    I wouldn't bother with the spoiler unless its OEM, and even at that, spoilers are expensive for what they are.


    I'd colour code the handles and side rubbing strips, but leave the black bits on the bumpers as they are.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21 grizzly700


    Spoiler is free just have to pay courier to collect its a nice one!

    Thinking of lowering it on 40mm springs, Any one know how many mill 2 nicks at the back is?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    2 nicks would be too much, 1 would be fine with 40mm
    besides - that way of doing it ( taking the arm off) can cause damage. The correct way to do it is to leave the arms on and adjust the bar itself.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Just found something on a peugeot forum to back this up:


    There are two ways of adjusting them..

    The wrong way is:
    By removing one of the torx bolts from each of the torsion bars then knocking each of the radius arms of the beam then lifting it up and pushing it back on using the splines as the guide..
    By doing it this way is is very very likely that the needle roller bearings and oil seals in the arms will be irreversably damaged..
    It will not be immediately apparent, however after some time the bearing will slowly collapse and the rear wheel camber will become excessive..
    Note:
    By the above method each "spline" will be around 36mm.. So Ur car has been lowered 2 "splines"...

    I Know that this is the way that many "tuners" do it but it is not correct..
    Especially with the 206, as the needle bearings are very fine and are not captive within the bearing housing..
    Whereas the 106/saxo for example have bigger rollers and are captive and have a little less of a tendancy to be damaged..
    But in each case the oil seals are fragile if mishandled.. water gets in and then the whole beam could be destroyed..

    The correct way is:
    To completely remove each of the torsion bars in turn.. Raising the radius arm the amount you want the car to be lowered by.
    Then reinserting the bar into the beam & arm assembly..
    By this method the radius arm does not need to be knocked off the beam, and therefore the roller bearings will remain intact..
    With this method the car can be lowered in steps of 1mm or so..

    Important Note:
    It is unwise to lower the rear of the car more than the front, as this will seriously affect the way the car handles due the chassis design and could cause U to loose control in not to extreme conditions..
    ie: So if the car has 35mm lowering springs fitted then it should only be lowered 35mm at the rear..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 213 ✭✭McP2011


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    2 nicks would be too much, 1 would be fine with 40mm
    besides - that way of doing it ( taking the arm off) can cause damage. The correct way to do it is to leave the arms on and adjust the bar itself.

    The trailing arm still needs to come of no matter what way you do it...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,893 ✭✭✭rex-x


    McP2011 wrote: »
    The trailing arm still needs to come of no matter what way you do it...
    No it doesnt, OP you may find the torsion bars are seized solid into the trailing arms and even a large slide hammer will fail to shift them. I made a special puller as I specialise in Peugeots but even with that I have to remove the trailing arms and rebuild the beam the odd time depending on the level of corrosion and general condition.
    At that age your beam will be nearing a rebuild anyway and a genuine bearing kit is only 90 odd quid so may be best to go the whole hog? If not doing it by 'nicks' is most certainly no way to lower a Peugeot
    To answer your querey though, its about 1 hours work on a nice free beam to lower or 5 hours for a full rebuild depending on the competency of the person doing the job.

    This may be of use to you http://www.205gtidrivers.com/articles.php?data=b-rearbeamrefurb


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 213 ✭✭McP2011


    rex-x wrote: »
    No it doesnt, OP you may find the torsion bars are seized solid into the trailing arms and even a large slide hammer will fail to shift them. I made a special puller as I specialise in Peugeots but even with that I have to remove the trailing arms and rebuild the beam the odd time depending on the level of corrosion and general condition.
    At that age your beam will be nearing a rebuild anyway and a genuine bearing kit is only 90 odd quid so may be best to go the whole hog? If not doing it by 'nicks' is most certainly no way to lower a Peugeot
    To answer your querey though, its about 1 hours work on a nice free beam to lower or 5 hours for a full rebuild depending on the competency of the person doing the job.

    This may be of use to you http://www.205gtidrivers.com/articles.php?data=b-rearbeamrefurb

    Ah yea I know that, just never bothered making up a puller as I found it just as quick to beat the whole lot of as some can be seriously tight.


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