How do you tell if an old used bikes mileage is legit?

blacknosugar

Hi

I've never bought a bike, or any kind of vehicle before. I'm just wondering how you can tell if the mileage on a '90s bike is what it says on the clocks?
On a car I'd have a rough idea what to look for, i.e. worn pedals and stuff but I've no idea about bikes or the paperwork etc. I don't mind if a bike I want to look at has a few miles on it but I just don't want to end up with something that's been couriered and done 150k or something.

Thanks!

lostboy

same sort of stuff really, grips and rubber on the pegs etc, id say very few 90's bikes are of proper milage, broken speedo cables are very common on bikes and they could be gone a few thousand miles before being changed, if at all.

daenerysstormborn3

Speedo cable on my CB was broken when I bought it and I'd say broken for many years before that. The lad I bought it off used it for commuting from Dungarvan to Waterford everyday and had it for approximately 2 years. When I bought it I was doing about 100km a day on it and long spins at the weekend. I've since bought a second bike but still drive it occasionally. When I bought it the mileage was 39,999 :rolleyes: and I'd say I easily put about 15,000kms on her and that's a low estimation.

I suppose looking at grips, pegs etc. you might be able to tell if the bike has been driven a lot but sure these things can be replaced.

On older bikes it's harder to trace back how many owners it's had to try and average out the mileage.

What I'm saying is basically I don't have any advice on how you'd be able to tell the true mileage. To be fair though, a bike that has been couriered will probably look fairly weathered throughout and there's not a lot of people that would put money into doing up a couriered bike. I'm not saying couriers don't look after their bikes but they're driving them all day usually in all conditions.

Hotblack Desiato

Condition more important than mileage. Does the oil look good (not black?) Does the coolant look good, not brown and rusty (old) or with oily foam in it (head gasket going?) Tyres? Chain/sprockets? General condition? Does the seller seem to know how to look after a bike, if they've no clue when you ask them questions it's a bad sign. e.g. when did they last change the oil, when were the valves checked last.

Couriers tend to stick to particular types of bike (Bros, CB400, etc.) so if you're not buying a well known 'courier bike' you should be OK. Nothing wrong with the types of bike they choose though, above all they want a reliable bike with low running costs.

There are lots of online guides out there about what to look for when buying a secondhand bike, so read up on that and if you've a particular model in mind there should be plenty of info about what's good/bad about them. Having someone with you who knows about bike mechanicals when you're viewing the bike is pretty much essential though. Also you have to make sure the log book etc. are genuine, seller is genuine, you have a home address (don't meet in a car park etc.) frame number isn't ground off and re-stamped, etc. (stolen bike) and the keys open the seat and fuel filler (and luggage if fitted)

oleras

ninja900 wrote: »

Condition more important than mileage. Does the oil look good (not black?) Does the coolant look good, not brown and rusty (old) or with oily foam in it (head gasket going?) Tyres? Chain/sprockets? General condition? Does the seller seem to know how to look after a bike, if they've no clue when you ask them questions it's a bad sign. e.g. when did they last change the oil, when were the valves checked last.

Couriers tend to stick to particular types of bike (Bros, CB400, etc.) so if you're not buying a well known 'courier bike' you should be OK. Nothing wrong with the types of bike they choose though, above all they want a reliable bike with low running costs.

There are lots of online guides out there about what to look for when buying a secondhand bike, so read up on that and if you've a particular model in mind there should be plenty of info about what's good/bad about them. Having someone with you who knows about bike mechanicals when you're viewing the bike is pretty much essential though. Also you have to make sure the log book etc. are genuine, seller is genuine, you have a home address (don't meet in a car park etc.) frame number isn't ground off and re-stamped, etc. (stolen bike) and the keys open the seat and fuel filler (and luggage if fitted)

All good points but on older bikes with the constant vibration you can end up with the key and ignition barrel a tad out of sync, ie, the key can be removed with the engine still running !

New ignition barrel would be ok then.

Hotblack Desiato

Yeah but that's something to ask the seller about and see how they explain it.