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So I waxed & dyed some traps

  • 18-05-2012 10:13pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭


    I decided I would dye and wax my traps. Why? Why not :D

    I got some Black Trap Dye from Fourteenacre and some Parafin wax off Ebay.

    The process is simple and painless. Just one safety note, do it outside. I didn't, I did it in my little shed, because I'm impatient and the weather is crap. But there is a real risk, particularly with the wax.

    I started out with my two somewhat rusty MK 6 Fenns.

    dye1.jpg

    After a good wire brushing... If you're using new traps then de grease/oil them first. I used Cillit Bang (on my MK 4's which I haven't dyed & waxed yet) because that was what I could liberate was on hand at the time.

    dye3.jpg

    I, uhm, happened to aqquire two pots. One I use for dye, one I use for wax.

    dye2.jpg

    Got the dye to a boil then I backed off the heat to have it below the boil, threw in my traps for an hour, but I kept a good eye on the pot to make sure it didn't boil... But it did anyway but not for long lol :D

    dye4.jpg

    This is what the dyed traps look like.

    dye5.jpg

    These are the Fenns after dying and waxing. The waxing is just melt a bunch of wax in the pot, I didn't have it boiling while the traps were in, leave them in long enough so the metal reaches the temp of the wax, take them out, shake, hang to dry, done. I have read wax can be quite dangerous, it's a fire risk so don't do what I did kiddies, do it outdoors.

    dye6.jpg

    dye7.jpg

    I like the outcome, they're nicely dyed and fast as greased lightning. I've also done some bodygrips that I didn't photograph. Read some funny stuff on US trapping forums particularly about peoples opinions on waxing the 330 size conibears, one guy would punch anyone who put'em in his truck :laugh: Still, with the tiddlers we piss about with I don't see the harm.

    I don't think I'll try to wax the Kania mind :eek:

    One tip from it all?

    Steal Use bigger f'ing pots than I did :D


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,149 ✭✭✭bazza888


    hey john,i have a few of those traps any tips ohn using them?i havnt tried them yet


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    bazza888 wrote: »
    hey john,i have a few of those traps any tips ohn using them?i havnt tried them yet

    http://www.thehuntinglife.com/html/sections/articles/ferreting_trapping/fenn-trap.html

    ;)

    You want your target animal to cross the side of the trap. If you look at the second last picture in my post above, that is how you want your rat to approach the trap - between the two jaws rather than over one jaw or the other singularly.

    Also, try to ensure that your tunnel is just high enough so as it allows your trap to operate, too high a roof can sometimes throw your rat (or whatever) out of the trap.

    While it's good to be careful, these traps aren't going to break yer fingers, I know, I've been bitten :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,979 ✭✭✭Eddie B


    Nice work John, have the same done to mine! Used a cold water dye i got from Protrapper. Cheap and chearfull dye, for those of you that are prone to accidents:D! Melted goose fat or lard can be used instead of wax! Probably not as good as wax, but still does the job!
    Another good tip is to place a small brick or similar object at the bottom of your pot and place your traps on top, to prevent your traps from getting to much heat from the base of your pot! This could damage your trap's!
    Also, if you use snare's, boil them up also to get rid of factory grease and pop them in2 dye as well!;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,979 ✭✭✭Eddie B


    Another thing! Most of those trap dye's actually require the trap's to be rusty, or it won't stick to them! So if you have new trap's, boil them up in soapy water to get rid of factory grease, skim grease of top of pot before taking out traps, and leave outside till you get a nice coating of rust all over your trap's! Clean off excess rust with a cloth of some sort and then continue as john has explained! As you can see john's had plenty of rust on them, so he hadn't to do this!:D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,271 ✭✭✭✭johngalway


    Vinegar is also supposed to promote rust. Also, if you live near the sea, it's a no brainer what to use if you want to speed up the process.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,069 ✭✭✭ronn


    binging up an old topic, Just bought some fenn traps at the midlands and am wondering why you dyed them,

    i have mine buried out the garden at the moment, is that the right thing to do,
    would it not be easer to spray paint them. ??

    thanks:confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,979 ✭✭✭Eddie B


    ronn wrote: »
    binging up an old topic, Just bought some fenn traps at the midlands and am wondering why you dyed them,

    i have mine buried out the garden at the moment, is that the right thing to do,
    would it not be easer to spray paint them. ??

    thanks:confused:

    Yea i sometimes spray paint mine! If new, you can boil them up to get rid of factory grease, spray paint them and wax them with candle wax or lard! Cheap and cheerful!:)
    It's not essential, but your trap's will work better, and last longer if you treat them!

    rats3007.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,069 ✭✭✭ronn


    eddie whats the idea of the wax/lard:confused:

    thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,011 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    What does one do to remove any unwanted odours from traps.Can one use cooking oil to protect from rust.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,069 ✭✭✭ronn


    should i dig my traps back up and spray and grease them.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,979 ✭✭✭Eddie B


    ronn wrote: »
    eddie whats the idea of the wax/lard:confused:

    thanks

    The idea of waxing is to make your traps faster! Meaning they're more delicate and go off quicker!! Mink are very agile, and can be missed with rusty,non treated trap's!! Dying your trap's help protect from rust, and help them to blend in with the earth!
    The idea is that the mink steps on the trap without noticing it's there, and so is not cautious to it!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,979 ✭✭✭Eddie B


    What does one do to remove any unwanted odours from traps.Can one use cooking oil to protect from rust.

    Unwanted odor's! Like what? Boiling them in soapy water will probably get rid a most odor's!
    Cooking oil won't really do the job, you need something which will set hard on the trap! Wax or lard will last all winter on your trap's and won't come off if your trap end's up in the river!
    You can get lard for nothing in the butcher's, chop it up fairly small, melt it and either submerge your trap's in it (best method), or hang them from nails, and pour it over your traps!
    There is a bit of hassle involved, but it's worth it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,979 ✭✭✭Eddie B


    ronn wrote: »
    should i dig my traps back up and spray and grease them.
    Well i done mine from new, so had to boil them first in soapy water to get rid of factory grease, but if yours are a little rusty, then you can go straight to dying and waxing!
    Just go back over the OP from johngalway and either use his method which cost a few pound, but it's the best method, or substitute with spray paint and lard for a cheap version!! Both method's work better with slightly rusted traps!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,011 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Did you ever use Duke coil spring traps for mink Eddie B.How do we protect our traps from human smells.We all know that animals have an excellent sense of smell.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 207 ✭✭Snake_Doctor


    I need to get some of these traps for Rats, they look a lot better then the big mousetraps for sale in the local hardware shop, can I order these online anywhere?
    Thanks,
    S'Doc


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,979 ✭✭✭Eddie B


    Did you ever use Duke coil spring traps for mink Eddie B.How do we protect our traps from human smells.We all know that animals have an excellent sense of smell.

    No i only use BMI bodygrips 116 and Fen mk4 and 6! Those traps your talking about are American traps, and as far as i know are illegal to use here! As well as that, they'd cost a fortune to get shipped over so not worth it!!
    You can use gloves when handling your taps if you want, i don't bother, after a day or two set, it'll be gone anyway!

    You can PM me with anything else ya want to know, and i'll answer best i can!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,979 ✭✭✭Eddie B


    I need to get some of these traps for Rats, they look a lot better then the big mousetraps for sale in the local hardware shop, can I order these online anywhere?
    Thanks,
    S'Doc

    Yea you can get them from couple a sites in the UK! You want the Fenn MK4 for rats! There a bit smaller than the Mink 1's, and a little cheaper! They cost about 13 or 14 Euro inc P&P! Just google Fenn MK4 and you'll find them. PRO TRAPPER is one site, FOURTEENACRES is another!
    If you are getting some for rats, you should make up a couple a boxes with ply to cover them, a little wider than the trap when set and high enough so's not to hinder the trap when it slaps! Then just cut out a hole each end big enough for rats to pass through!
    It stops cat's, dog's e.t.c from getting caught by accident!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 207 ✭✭Snake_Doctor


    Cheers, found a guy in Kerry doing them he's on donedeal.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,979 ✭✭✭Eddie B


    Cheers, found a guy in Kerry doing them he's on donedeal.

    Make sure there reasonably priced, should be no more than 14 euro delivered! It's shocking to say that you can get stuff delivered from the UK cheaper than buying it in a shop here! If your only getting one or two, then it makes no odd's!!


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