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methods of insulating bedroom

  • 10-05-2012 9:10pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 950 ✭✭✭


    hi there so here is the problem.

    house is bungalow 1960/70 block built 4"outside leaf cavity about 2 or 3 " and 4" inside leaf. the rooms are very hard to heat (gunbarell piping plumber says its not flowing throught it well) the cavity was pumped a about 10 years ago but we never really felt much difference.windows are big 8X4 but double glazed but old. of all the rooms one in particular is very cold. we are doing the room up at minute ,new wardrobes,painting,coving so now is the time to adress these problems. i have been searching old threads about dryling and some people say moisture,mould behind insulation. i was thinking of putting insulated plasterboard slab on the two utside walls in room.was going to put something like 3"insulation +plasterboard (can this even be got) would be using metal mushroom fixings and pin straight to wall. the existing walls have been battened with 2X1 beacause of damp before vent was put in. i will be taking this off and starting from scratch. is there a need to put insulated board on ceiling?? cant insulate from attic as we convereted it and i think there is minimal insualtion under floor. all feed back appricated. anybody with different/better ideas. thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 950 ✭✭✭Dupont


    anybody?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    I strongly suspect that you are experiencing heat loss arising from air leakage.
    It would cost around €700 to have a test to establish this but I would expect that the remedial works identified to cost no more than about the same.

    In the meantime - do you have
    1. recessed lighting
    2. openings in the wall where drain pipes pass through
    3. do your roof overhang vent paths communicate directly with the internal spaces*
    4. are your window frame well sealed to the walls internally*

    * sorry but that is/ they are questions I don't expect you alone to answer - a good AT tester will be able to confirm and offer a remedy


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    Also your heating system may at the very least may need to flushed clean of magnetite which seriously degrades the output of heating system. You may even need to replace some or all of your heating system ( so sorry to say that )


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 950 ✭✭✭Dupont


    sinnerboy wrote: »
    I strongly suspect that you are experiencing heat loss arising from air leakage.
    It would cost around €700 to have a test to establish this but I would expect that the remedial works identified to cost no more than about the same.


    In the meantime - do you have
    1. recessed lighting no
    2. openings in the wall where drain pipes pass through no
    3. do your roof overhang vent paths communicate directly with the internal spaces* dont know and there (not an easy way) of checking i guess as upstairs is studded out say 5 foot from wall plate to give some height and there is no access on this side where the room is
    4. are your window frame well sealed to the walls internally* ?
    * sorry but that is/ they are questions I don't expect you alone to answer - a good AT tester will be able to confirm and offer a remedy

    jh


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 950 ✭✭✭Dupont


    sinnerboy wrote: »
    Also your heating system may at the very least may need to flushed clean of magnetite which seriously degrades the output of heating system. You may even need to replace some or all of your heating system ( so sorry to say that )

    done that when renewing a couple of rads put no change. the plumer was saying that the pipes would need renewing but ahhhhhhhhhh:eek: i thought if we upgraded the burner to put more heat through as it is the same one before a kitchen extension and attic conversion of about 8 rads but he rekons no. so that is why i was thinking of insulating to the max to benifet from the heating


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 302 ✭✭george67


    Dupont wrote: »
    sinnerboy wrote: »
    Also your heating system may at the very least may need to flushed clean of magnetite which seriously degrades the output of heating system. You may even need to replace some or all of your heating system ( so sorry to say that )

    done that when renewing a couple of rads put no change. the plumer was saying that the pipes would need renewing but ahhhhhhhhhh:eek: i thought if we upgraded the burner to put more heat through as it is the same one before a kitchen extension and attic conversion of about 8 rads but he rekons no. so that is why i was thinking of insulating to the max to benifet from the heating
    75mm warm board on the walls and 35mm board on the ceiling and reveals should do the trick maybe a higher output rad


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 950 ✭✭✭Dupont


    george67 wrote: »
    75mm warm board on the walls and 35mm board on the ceiling and reveals should do the trick maybe a higher output rad

    on the ceiling would it be better to take down plasterboard and start fresh or overboard>???


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 231 ✭✭jaspertheghost


    insulated shelterboard on the walls,take down the ceiling and put up insulation then half inch plasterboard..use 21ml insulated plasterboard (the one with the white foam) around the reveals...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 950 ✭✭✭Dupont


    insulated shelterboard on the walls,take down the ceiling and put up insulation then half inch plasterboard..use 21ml insulated plasterboard (the one with the white foam) around the reveals...

    whats insulated shelterboard?? insulated plasterboard??? what thickness


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 231 ✭✭jaspertheghost


    Dupont wrote: »
    whats insulated shelterboard?? insulated plasterboard??? what thickness

    ya its plasterboard,its got better insulation on it tho, thickness depends on what you want yourself,it varies from 21mm to 55mm so you have a choice,the thicker the board the better the insulation


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