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Putting Back on a Cassette

  • 07-05-2012 9:21am
    #1
    Vélo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,920 ✭✭✭


    I decided to give my bike a proper clean yesterday and removed the chain and cassette, this was easy enough to do as I have the proper tools for the job. I then soaked everything in diesel and scrubbed with a nail brush. I was careful to check what way I took off the cassette and that I had the spacers in the right places. All that was fine, it's just when I was tightening the cassette I didn't know how much to tighten it.

    I have it back on fairly tight and I think it's right but I'm afraid when I'm out on the bike a good way from home that something will go wrong.


    I also have another dilemma; Do I take the shiny bike out on the wet roads today??

    Any tips would be appreciated.


Comments

  • #2
    victorcarrera
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,059 ✭✭✭victorcarrera


    The correct torque setting should be written on the lockring but I'm guessing you don't have a torque wrench so the same turning force as you would use on a vacuum sealed jam jar lid is approximate. The turning force of the drive chain does not act on the lockring so it is safe to do this.


  • #3
    AstraMonti
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,718 ✭✭✭AstraMonti


    I tighten the cassete as much as my puny arms are capable of doing. 45nm is a LOT of force.

    The shiny bike is for the good days, thats why you have a winter bike :D


  • #4
    codie
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 926 ✭✭✭codie


    40nm is the norm .Its written on front of cassette.


  • #5
    AstraMonti
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,718 ✭✭✭AstraMonti


    codie wrote: »
    40nm is the norm .Its written on front of cassette.

    It depends. Campag 10sp is 50nm, Campag 11sp is 40nm, Shimano is between 30 and 50 depending on the model.


  • #6
    Mycroft H
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,313 ✭✭✭Mycroft H


    victorcarrera wrote: »
    The correct torque setting should be written on the lockring but I'm guessing you don't have a torque wrench so the same turning force as you would use on a vacuum sealed jam jar lid is approximate. The turning force of the drive chain does not act on the lockring so it is safe to do this.

    You must be superman if your putting out 40Nm of torque opening a jam jar. I can't see it requiring a tenth of that. 40nm is about 4kg hanging from a perpendicular lever 1 meter long under the force of gravity.

    AstraMonti wrote: »
    It depends. Campag 10sp is 50nm, Campag 11sp is 40nm, Shimano is between 30 and 50 depending on the model.

    SRAM are 40Nm if I remember correctly.... I've only seen one of them though so the others might be different

    40Nm is a lot of torque. Any time I've put one on I've tightened them with a spanner and thought "that has to be enough" only to put the torque wrench on to see that it requires a little bit more:pac:


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  • #7
    NeedMoreGears
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,419 ✭✭✭NeedMoreGears


    40Nm is more like 4kg at 1m - you need to multiply mass by g (9.81) to convert kg to Newtons.

    You should be easily able to tighten to that level


  • #8
    Mycroft H
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,313 ✭✭✭Mycroft H


    NeedMoreGears wrote: »
    40Nm is more like 4kg at 1m - you need to multiply mass by g (9.81) to convert kg to Newtons.

    You should be easily able to tighten to that level

    Yep, your right. Brian fart there.

    40kg in newtons would be about 392Nm. Its a while since I did any physics in college.

    Its easy, but always surprises me at the amount of torque needed. Its at a similar level at what pedals should be tightened at.


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